I'm at the track trying to solve a reoccurring issue of code 42 and 69 kicking on halfway through the race. 2016 yamaha r1, ftecu abs delete. I replaced the abs delete plug with a brand new one just now and it came back on last race. Problem is, I'm losing traction control, wheelie control and quick shifter plus some other stuff. Any help would much appreciated! Thank you!
Check that the rear wheel speed sensor cable isn’t shorting out on your rotor. Sounds weird but I had this happen once after having “help” and my help wasn’t too detail oriented when they changed my wheel. The guide that should capture the cable wasn’t, and the cable was floating over and making contact with the rotor. It was intermittent and very annoying, but very easy to resolve once discovered.
I was able to find an abs pump at the track to plug in and I installed a new rear wheel sensor rotor (visibly bent). The TC and everything worked for the last race but the abs light was on. So now I'm going to play around with switching the abs plugs and pump and see if I can come to a conclusion of what the problem was. I'll update my findings for future viewings. Thank you
Did you have any luck? I just did the ABS delete on mine have the same issue after my first test ride
I have a 2015 with an FTECU tune. I installed the FTECU delete plug and got the same result. I even got another one from FTECU for no charge and same issue. I recently picked up the I2M delete plug from Superbike Unlimited and it works perfectly.
Been reading the same things elsewhere which is a shame. And from what I can see they haven’t been accommodating to refunds.
Hey guys, just had this happen to me at Road American yesterday on my last 2 sessions of the day going down the front straight. I rarely look but speedo went to 0mph then the engine light came on 3 turns later shutting down the shifter. I've done 4 track days this year on this new to me 2016 R1 but never had this issue. My rear sensor is nicked on a corner from wheel removal but curious if something else could cause it. I also noticed how it overheats immediately after coming off track if left to idle or cruise in 1st gear. Thanks
I doubt it's the sensor if it just has a plastic chip, and its not opened up. Don't know about the codes, but dropout of speed and lack of shifter (and a really lame low power mode) usually means the ABS emulator or ABS pump has gone bad (or maybe a blown fuse?). Swap out the unit for a known working one, you will know you fixed the issue if when the dash starts showing the speed again, you can test it on a stand. I've seen and experienced the emulators from all brands fail eventually, not just those mentioned above.
Check the abs cable as amartin mentioned. They can get nicked if they are not in their routing guides by either the rotor or tire, and then throw engine and abs codes. I carry a few spare abs sensor cables just for this reason. For overheating, I had to make sure the cooling system is bled properly but letting air out of the bolt at the top of the water pump after filling the system and running to temp.
