07 GSXR 750 track set-up???

Hi all, I've been reading some of the other post on suggested gixxer 750 set-up and not really sure whats best?
I've run many track days(25+) here in the SE running Jennings, NSS & Tally mostly and run in the Advanced group and have turned 1:02's on my F4i at Tally.
Well I picked up a wrecked 07 GSXR 750 last week and plan to do track days mostly and maybe some WERA stuff later. It will never be a street bike!
I have no budget so I want to run the bike with as much stock items as possible like suspension, exhaust, brakes and such.
I've never tracked a Gixxer and would like some advice on what's usable and what really has to be changed to make it work.

I'll have clip-ons, a Leo Slip-on and Dot race tires, but other than that what's needed. I weight 190lbs.
-Can stock suspension be used and what weight is stock set-up for?
-Does the exhaust valve have to come out if running a slip-on or is it better to keep it in there? Do I have to have a PCIII if I go this route?
-What gearing works best for the mentioned tracks? I ran 1dn/2-up on the F4i which worked great everywhere with the possible exception of NSS where it would hit the limiter in 6th on a good day.
-rake/geometry, I read where many people run the forks flush with the top tree. Is that correct and with stock suspension?
- brake pads, m/c, lines?
Thanks for any help.

BR

 

I've got an '07 GSXR 750. Dave Moss said the stock rear spring is for a 200 lb. rider, so you're in the ballpark and probably don't need to respring. 30mm of sag is what he said for starters, I don't really have any numbers for the stock forks but mine are flush w/ the triple.
It'll be difficult to remove the exhaust valve for your slip on as it's welded in and if you do you'll get an FI error code. A PCIII is a good idea. I know I needed one w/ my Akra slip on, and even then without the correct map it was running lean.
I've never been to the tracks you mentioned but as far as gearing at least -1 up front is what people recommend for most tracks, maybe up 1 or 2 teeth in the rear.
The stock brakes are pretty good, maybe flush out the system and replace w/ some good fluid like RBF600 and see how it feels. If you want more stopping power steel braided lines and Vesrah RJL pads should do it.
Good luck and I'm sure someone more in the know will help you out.

 

Thanks for taking the time to answer!
Wow, I know they have 1.0kg front springs, but didn't think they would be set up for a 200lb rider, that would be cool!
I picked up a stock gsxr600 16t front sprocket which is suppose to work and give me the 1-dn front w/o having to go with a complete 520 kit. This would give me 16/45 I think?
Also picked up a slightly damaged Leo Vince slip-on.
How about stock rear sets, I'm 6' 190lbs.Are they OK?

 

Personally, stock rearsets are the lst thing i take off a bike. If you havent ridden with aftermarket rearsets you won't realize the difference until you do.
Aftermarket pieces give you such a sturdy and solid footing. No worries about your toes slipping off mid corner .
Also the adjustability of aftermarket rearsets are obviously a plus to fit your style and body position.
All stock pegs seem to inevitably hit the ground. They need to be raised, thus the aftermarket pieces.
I use YOSH rearsets on my 07 GSXR 1000. A little pricey at $500, but that's what i've always used in 15yrs of riding/racing on all my bikes.

 

I ran race rear sets on my last track bike and use the spike type pegs for the most foot grip as that sliding off the peg is a beaoch!
I'll most likely just run stock but sharpen up the trips for better grip for now. It also looks like you can just swap the left & right mount brackets and get extra lift/raising of the pegs another 1/4-1/2" over the 3 stock positions available.

 

Geo: Forks flush, 5mm spacer on the stock shock worked pretty well for me.
Sag: 1/3 travel, but make sure there is some free sag in the rear.
Slip-on: SET valve is easy to disable. Just pull the appropriate wire from the ECU, and no FI light. Typically no PC3 needed, but it would smooth out the powerband a bit if you had one.
Rearsets are a good idea. Stock ones are low, slippery and bendy.
Stock clipons bend easily, but aren't too bad. You can cut off the retaining pins to move them into different positions (stock was too narrow for me).
Stock brakes suck. Stainless lines, bleed with Motul or SRF, get some SRJL pads.
For gearing, it depends on the track. One tooth down in the front is a good start for most places (bike won't pull stock gearing to redline in 6th anyway).

 

Thanks, flush & 5mm should be easy enough and set sag!
Does the SET valve hurt performance??? or just top end??? or ???
I have Votex clip-ons coming as they won't snap off in a simple drop like stock.
Brake lines & good fluid sounds like a must then! :up:

 

The SET valve doesn't do anything for your top end as the exhaust valve is fully open WOT. As mentioned above you can disable it by removing the cable pulleys to leave it open all the time, but you're going to have to pull pin #30 out of your ECU junction block to get rid of the FI error code.

 

Isn't the SET valve suppose to help low end and mid range power, maybe even smooth it out?
Is there a big track performance loss keeping it opperational?
Thanks

 

Any other thoughts on the SET valve? Run it/unplug it?

 

unplug it

 

So best to just pull the servo and all cables and unplug pin #30 then?
That has to be like 1/4 hp in weight savings alone.

 

I don't know about that track but with laptimes that low I'm assuming it's small and technical. I have my bike geared -2 -1(15/44) That is a close ratio to doing -1 +2.5. It worked really well for me at a small track like Streets of WillowSprings(youtube it) and even the bigger and longer speedway of California Speedway.

Also definately do the forks flush and 5mm in rear. Maybe change to a thicker oil in the tubes.

The SET valve debate is constant on the gixxer forum, I personally disconnected mine. And there is also a PAIR valve modification you can do under the airbox, supposed to help eliminate popping and free up 1-2hp. Buy a spare set of OEM air stacks too. There are two short and two tall in our airbox. You can change to all tall for a little more low/mid grunt or change to all short for more top end power.
It is recommended to dyno tune after any little change but you can spend a little cash on the new PCV unit and get the autotune so any new mods done will automatically be recalibrated by computer.

 

Good stuff, thanks. I'll look at the Par valve mod too.
The v-stacks options are very interesting!

 

I had bought the Factory Pro stacks so now that I have a 2nd bike for the track I'm going to set up my 600 with all four tall ones and see how it feels.

 

Which junction block is pin 30 in? Black or gray?
thax

 

http://www.tfriders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=71

 

Thank you sir, I found that exact write-up on the GSXR forum and did the snip job yesterday, works like a charm. :up:

Now I'm going to look at removing the valve itself.

 

So far I've added a 16t front sprocket, removed the SET valve cables, servo & valve from the exhaust, clipped #30 wire from the cpu, dropped the fork tubs to flush, steel braided brake lines and 600 deg. fluid., Vortex clip-ons, Leo slip-on, race bodywork.
Will be running stock suspension for a while, I'm 190 lbs and I guess stock is sprung for 200lb.

 

Have you had a chance to run the v-stacks? How do they feel?