Big wave riding is NOT for the casual or noob. Surfing is a ton of fun. Body boarding and Body surfing are too. When the wave is hollow and glassy, it's a smooth ride and feels amazing. Double overhead at Blacks Beach in winter is amazing. Those waves are also as forceful as an angry 400lb Samoan bouncer if you make a mistake When you fuck it up and don't make the duck dive (under) or miss getting over the top, and you get slammed and the washing machine holds you down, or you get caught in between waves in a set of 4 or 5 or it's not a good feeling. LIke Jbraun, I never did any reef breaks as I'm not good enough, and would definitely fuck it up.