1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

New to mini-motards

Discussion in 'Mini Racing' started by warclok, Nov 13, 2022.

  1. warclok

    warclok Well-Known Member

    Hello, just picked up these pair of mini motards for some additional NJMP or OVRP fun, when I’m not riding NYST or Pitt race.

    Rode one of them yesterday for the first time at tempest raceway, definitely felt interesting with the 12inch wheels, but was allot of fun. I usually ride my SMR at liberator, and my R1 everywhere else.

    First mod I think will be sending the carbs off to Tokyo mods for jetting, anything else you guys can recommend to keep them running and starting up right?

    Thanks!!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    Very nice pair of Rs!

    Tokyo Mods does a great job with the carbs, but it comes at a cost. You can dial them in yourself and save a good bit of money. For just over $100, the Boyesen Quickshot3 makes dialing in the accelerator pump very easy. Throw an o-ring on the accel. pump linkage and do 45 pilot/142 main for the jetting and you should be very close.

    The 12" wheels are certainly a love them or hate them kind of thing. There are lower offset triples available (6mm and 12mm, stock are 28mm) if you wanted to go that route later.

    I would check the valve lash just to get a good baseline. The intake valves wear on these things and the lash tightens up as they do. From what I remember from the FB Marketplace ad, those bikes both had pretty low hours on them.

    Slipper clutches are game changers on these things (as I'm sure you know from the SMR). Something worth budgeting for later.
     
    voss555 and warclok like this.
  3. warclok

    warclok Well-Known Member

    Hey Toad, thanks for the info, I’ll take another look. I just honestly hate working on carbs and small parts, I get frustrated. I work on all my bikes but don’t do carbs.

    One of the two Hondas has applied triples with a different offset I believe, have to confirm at some point.

    The 12’s respond quick to inputs, which might take a little to get used to but I’m looking forward to it.

    And yes, the bikes have less than 1 hour each so basically new.
     
  4. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    Nice pickups - let me know when you're headed down to NJMP and I'd be interested in joining.
     
    Newtothegame and warclok like this.
  5. warclok

    warclok Well-Known Member

    Thanks and will do, I was actually there yesterday morning. I rented Liberator from 9-1pm so my 5 year old can get comfy on his CRF50, we were both on CRF50’s actually.
    I then rode the 150 at the end of the day when my time was almost up…
     
  6. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    Applied did triples in 30, 28 and 26mm offsets. I'm not sure if there are any identifying marks or not, I have 26mm ones on mine but never paid any attention to any markings.

    I get it with the carb stuff. The FCRs are pretty freakin' complex, especially when dealing with older ones that need full rebuilds (complete disassembly to get to the mid-body gaskets). Being so new, yours shouldn't need much besides swapping some jets around. An extended idle mixture screws or R&D Flex Jet are worth the money. Makes it very easy to adjust, the stock screw is difficult to get to and no fun when it's hot. The good news is that once you get the jetting right, they are pretty low maintenance from that point. You may need to go up or down a main size for warmer or cooler weather, but beyond that there shouldn't be any drama.
     
    warclok likes this.
  7. warclok

    warclok Well-Known Member

    I’ll check tomorrow but I’m guessing if he built these for kart tracks, he did the 26mm offset version.

    When I send them off to Tokyo, I’ll do the billet sump, hot start and fuel mixture along with the throttle spring.

    I know I can do the carbs myself, I did a TTR125, but I was angry the whole time…
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    If you didn't like the TTR carb, then you really wouldn't be happy digging into the R carbs! And two of them at that.

    Ditch the hot start plunger, cable and lever entirely, don't bother with the billet hot start nut. Get an o.e. choke knob and install in place of the hot start plunger. You can still use the hot start if need be, but I have never needed it even after picking it up after a crash. It unclutters things and makes twisting the carb in the manifold for jetting changes much easier. And easier to remove and install the carb.

    IMG_20220909_115104868.jpg
     
    voss555 and warclok like this.
  9. warclok

    warclok Well-Known Member

    Thanks Toad, so glad I came here to discuss mini’s, that’s a great idea.

    I assume you are referring to this item?

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16046-MEB-671
     
  10. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    Yes, that's it. Put a tiny bit of grease on the plunger when you install it. I'm guessing that you'll rarely, if ever use it and that will keep it from sticking in the carb body later.
     
  11. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    You probably already know, but as I remember these have two different oil cavities and each one is only about .6 quarts. So remember to check them, even mid day during the race day. It may have been after we moved to big tracks, but I remember having to add oil during a weekend before.

    Nice looking new bikes, too.
     
    Senna, DmanSlam and warclok like this.
  12. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    Ah, that's a great point with the oil. I have to always top mine off (engine side) after a day at the track.
     
    voss555 likes this.
  13. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    @Toadmeister00 (and whomever else) - is there rubber comparable to the Q4 type trackday tire for 17" moto3 wheels? I'd prefer to not have to use warmers if I can help it and would be perfectly content using a street tire. Asking because the slicks on the bike now are just about toast........bike is a 150rb, FWIW.
     
  14. Toadmeister00

    Toadmeister00 Well-Known Member

    The Bridgestone R11 DOTs might be a viable option, a 110 on the front and 120 on the rear (both of those are front tires). Dunlop also has the Q3+ in 110 and 120 fronts.

    Assuming you have a 2.5" wide front, the profiles on those 110 fronts might be a little pinched as they are spec'd for 3" wheels.

    Dots | Stickboy Racing
    Dots | Stickboy Racing
     
    SuddenBraking likes this.

Share This Page