Mountain Bikes!

If it’s super smooth where you’re at then a $1200 bike will be ok. But if it’s rough then you’ll beat the crap out of it and either you’ll quit or you’ll upgrade quickly. In my area I’m always seeing barely used hard tails from that price range for sale and it usually says they just upgraded to something better. I’d maybe look to see if you can find something like that used because you can very quickly outgrow the cheaper bikes and want to get something nice. Hell I just saw a 5 year old S-works epic for $2500-that would be pretty damn hard to beat.

 

Yeah, this always makes me laugh when I watch videos from GMBN or Pinkbike that are sponsored by a hardtail manufacturer. They’re riding super flowy, groomed trails with maybe one or two roots or a single rock garden to try and sell these things. I think I’ve only ever seen a hard tail once out here on the front range, and that was on a very smooth trail (for out here).

Even my local easy peazy trail would beat the shit out of you on a hard tail.

 

So, the Marlin 7 type bikes are junk?

The trials around me are pretty smooth I believe never rode on them. I looked at pics and there's no man made ramps or drops.

 

On paved or super groomed trails they are ok but if it’s rocky or rough at all you’ll quickly find out that the fork is not up to the task. Plus drivetrain components will have a lot of plastic, no dropper post, etc. Think of it like taking a bone stock CBR 300 on the track. Sure it’s goes around the track but the brakes suck, the suspension sucks, it has no power, etc. So you can either spend the purchase price of the bike on upgrading it or you can get a bike that’s up to the task from the get go. They ‘look’ like mountain bikes but they really aren’t. Maybe see about renting a bike and giving it a shot?

 

With bikes, the brand on the frame doesn’t matter so much as what components it is spec’d out with. Those are all pretty much the same across brands at varying price points. So unless you are after a certain geometry that only one manufacturer offers or have some other reason to be brand loyal, it doesn’t matter. Just shop for good components.

I’ve had some friends very satisfied with bikes from bikesdirect.com You can save some money by not having a big name sticker on the frame but still all the same components.

 

I think a hardtail is an excellent choice for a do-it-all bike. I have a Salsa MukLuk fat bike with a set of 29+ wheels and it is a great bike for muddy conditions. I've also owned a Salsa Timberjack which I found to be a great and fun bike.

I know from experience that in everything but the rowdiest of downhills, a hardtail will keep up. Add in a hardtail's pedaling efficiency, versatility and lower cost, and it's a hard combination to beat for an entry level rider.

https://www.salsacycles.com/bikes/2021_timberjack_slx_29

This is a "price-point" bike with components I would consider "trail worthy." I would spend the extra couple hundred to upgrade to the XT components.

https://www.salsacycles.com/bikes/2021_timberjack_xt_29

The big thing you are NOT getting with this bike is a carbon frame, and it's the one thing you can't/won't upgrade. Carbon is usually about 1.5 pounds lighter and rides better than alloy, but adds a lot of cost.

The good thing about the bikes in this price range is that they are easy to sell if you don't ride or want to upgrade. Unlike a WalMart or ultra-low level entry bike, they will hold some resale value.

 

Well part of the reason I was thinking of that price range is, I'm going to have to buy 2. Neither me nor the boy have a capable bike to ride any kind of trails. So, I didn't want to drop 6k on two bikes right out the gate.

 

How old is your son? And I get it, its not a cheap sport at all to get into!

 

Hes 11, but pretty tall 11 yr old.

 

Here is the closest trail we would go to the most after work.

Stoller Road Trail

 

The Marlin 7 is not junk by any means. It is a lower-spec bike, but it will handle any trails you will be riding as beginners and getting into the game.
Hardtails aren't junk, they will not fall apart from riding on trails, nor will they cause you to die. If you are getting a good deal on the Marlin 7 and feel comfortable with it, they will serve you well as you get a feel for what kind of riding you will be doing if you stick with mountain biking.
It's a 1x10, so not the latest drivetrain, but that isn't going to be a hinderance for beginners either. The 100mm Judy coil is a short travel fork, yes. But isn't a pile of crap. Again, it will work fine for your usage.
Once you have been riding for a year, you will know what kind of trails you like to do, what kind of riding. Or if you just flat don't like it. You'll have a better feel for what kind of upgrades you'd like to see on your next bikes and sell the Marlins, purchase what's next.
To try to play the "get this kind of bike because it's what I like" game in the MTB world is insane. Get a quality bike, which the Marlin 7 is, and just start riding. The bike won't hurt you, won't limit you. Your skills will limit you and you will build that as you learn and ride.

 

What do ya'll know about Sram?

 

Never heard of her.


But really, what do you need to know? They are one of the big two in the drivetrain world and also own rockshox, zipp, truvativ and others.

 

that I don't like the way their shifts feel compared to Shimano - and that the SX/NX stuff is not as good at Deore but when you step up to GX/X01 its every bit as good as SLX/XT.

 

what's the verdict on the current "best" 30mm bottom bracket outside the idea that they're all pretty shitty and it forces the balls to be tiny and wear out quicker than 24mm stuff? might be in the market for a new crank here shortly. if you say SRAM kill yourself haha. junk ass bottom brackets never again. what you guys rockin?

 

Since I switched to Chris King's, haven't had a single issue. Plus, they are easily servicable.

https://chrisking.com/products/bottom-bracket-threadfit-30

 

I bought a handful of the MT900 cranksets when they went on closeout once MT9100 were widely available, so I'm not much help there on my personal bikes.
But the Wheels Manufacturing BBs for 29 (put down the bong) and 30 spindles are pretty decent.

 

Looks pretty chill. Any "XC" style bike would be plenty capable. Hard tail would be cheaper, 100-120mm front fork. Full suspension wouldn't be bad either.

 

right on. I was keen on sticking with my XT 24mm and my nice Enduro bb, but something is making a gnarly sound under heavy (ie. straight up a cliff in 44t at 1mph) load. i need to investigate more this week here after work. If its not the freehub, which it doesn't seem to be, it can only really be the pedals or crank.

I'm on an 8120 right now. Do either of you know if XT's have/are made the same as Ultegra/Dura-Ace ones? as in, if they get smacked and exposed to weather they can start corroding on the inside and separating the glue? or XT's didn't get that fancy treatment?

I had Race Face Atlas cranks for like 7 years. I love billet cranks with the pedal holes machined out. Never a single issue. I've broken 4 carbon cranks before I swore never again, separating the pedal insert from the carbon. and used SRAM bb's on those RF cranks but they would die like every year. They were total junk, but cheap enough i didn't mind. I want something I don't have to think about, but worry about the 30mm bearings. Thinking 5DEV if it is in fact my XT's that are messed up.