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17+ R6 boggs and TCS light blinks /ON

Discussion in 'Tech' started by JTRC51, Mar 26, 2022.

  1. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Question for the group. helping a buddy with his R6 at the track recently. He changed a few things to the R6 over the winter on his 17 (08 stacks, and Akra exhaust). He went out on track and the bike bogged and surged a bit and the TCS light would come on (blinking under load causing bike to surge/boggs, then the TCS light stays on, dash shows TCS off and bike seems fine. This has a FTECU setup and harness.

    He turns the bike off and TCS light goes away, then turn it back on, ride it, and after a bit it boggs and blinks and then stays on (TCS).

    All connectors seem fine, no codes or CEL. Just odd. Any thoughts/help? Could it be that he needs to change something in the flash for the change of velocity stacks? Or perhaps a battery issue (speedcell)?
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2022
  2. racepro171

    racepro171 to finish first, first you must finish!

    start putting back stock stuff, process of elimination. I would start at a stock un flashed ecu
     
  3. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Stock ECU won't work with the FTECU harness/race kit. They switch some of the wiring and it causes codes and bike won't start. We tried that, we also changes ABS sensors. It feels like the fuel pump cuts out, but not sure what the TCS has to do with the fuel pump (?). I took it for a ride and it would cut out a bit then when it got past 8k rpm it would cut out more, and start flashing the TCS light.
     
  4. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    It’s almost always going to be any non-OEM fuel management causing the issue.
     
  5. ibidu1

    ibidu1 Well-Known Member

    Maybe bad gas or fouled plugs?
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  6. grapejuiceboys

    grapejuiceboys Well-Known Member

    This is a guess, but the surging sounds like the throttle might be losing where it's position is at? Could be a mechanical problem, could be an FTECU issue.

    If it's an FTECU problem, good luck trying to get it sorted out. There's probably worse companies to deal with but I doubt it.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  7. 392

    392 Well-Known Member

    Had this happen. It’s a bad abs delete.

    you can plug the stock back in and block it off just to make sure it fixes. If so, then purchase another delete. We always keep 2 spares and oem just to be safe. Guarantee this is the issue.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  8. Blue Junk

    Blue Junk Well-Known Member

    If you’re new to dealing with these dudes, give them a little breathing room. They’re pretty overwhelmed at the moment, due to some extenuating circumstances.

    Also, +1 on the ABS delete failing. They’re almost a consumable…
    Plug the OEM pump back in and it’ll confirm your suspicions.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  9. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Problem identified and fixed. One of the wires in the oem right switch was severed, causing a bad connection. Hooked em back up, and it is fixed. Must have been causing a short or something. It was very odd behavior. Bike seems 100% now.
     
    jd41 likes this.
  10. ibidu1

    ibidu1 Well-Known Member

    My 2017 R6 just yesterday at the track had a bogging issue. The engine would cut off sounds like the same exact issue. Which area in the kill switch wire was severed?
     
  11. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    The wires coming off the right hand (Throttle) oem controls. Look there to see if you have any lose or cut connections
     
    ibidu1 likes this.
  12. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    I am starting to think this may be the problem. When I "thought" I fixed the 2 damaged wires. It stopped doing it. I took it for another ride yesterday just to confirm all was 100% before I buttoned it up and had it ready for Tally. It did it once more, although not as bad as the first times, it bogged a bit then when pulling into a street to make a U turn, the TCS light came on and the TCS was off - then no issues. But it only did it that 1 time, shut it down, restarted it, and rode it again, it didn't do it. I did put in another ABS delete plug last night and will try again (once it stops raining). Odd.. But seems to still be doing it, albeit not as bad/frequent.

    @ibidu1 - FYI.
     
  13. ibidu1

    ibidu1 Well-Known Member

    My R6 I just removed the abs lines, and kept the abs pump plugged in, and I am not running the abs delete plug. I have the same exact issues you are having. Mine started in the middle of a track day, only after I poured in new gas. So I kinda suspected bad fuel, but it cuts off like an ignition issue.
     
  14. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Yeah, it feels like a fuel cutoff, but my question is, what does that have to do with TCS? I have a spare tank with a new fuel pump I may run in it just to see. It could be bad fuel in mine too because it's been in there for a bit (with fuel stabilizer). But I just don't know why the TCS light would have anything to do with it (?)

    Before I do the tank, I will do the other ABS delete plug (one thing at a time). Also, could a bad battery cause the issue? I wonder because my Speedcell batt died once, and I was able to bring it back to life, and it reads great voltage (tested off the bike, 13.9v), but wondering if there may be a bad cell or other issue from it dying previously (?)..
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2022
  15. dudutzu

    dudutzu Well-Known Member

    Is it possible that when the engine is not running correctly(potentially bad fuel misfire), that then it's disabling the TCS which causes the TCS light to come ON? My thought is that if the engine isn't running correctly then how can the TCS function correctly? therefore turning the TCS off?
    Although - probably unlikely in this case.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2022
    JTRC51 likes this.
  16. ibidu1

    ibidu1 Well-Known Member

    I just had my bike looked at by a mechanic, I didnt have the time to go through it. But he found loose connection inside of the kill switch, and a loose wire or bad connection from the key ignition harness. Hope that helps!
     
  17. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    I took both switches apart and cut back the rubber casing/tape and didn't find any bad connections. Next I replaced my ABS delete plug and went out for a ride. So far, no issues.. I'll report back if it comes up again. I may call FTECU to see if they have a way of testing the ABS delete module. Have to send em a sensor for replacement anyway.

    To be cont.
     
  18. ibidu1

    ibidu1 Well-Known Member

    My bike, I still have the abs block mounted but capped off fluid ports. Ive heard of issues with FTECU modules which is why I didnt go that route and just left the abs module
     
  19. Suzuka_joe

    Suzuka_joe Well-Known Member

    I want to replace my ABS pump with the I2M abs delete but I've heard you should just have 2 spare plugs and the oem pump incase of issues. Looks like the GYTR ecu and harness relocate the stock pump to under the seat so thats a big reason why I'm leaning towards buying the gytr electronics and rather than delete the pump move it. I just need to find a tuner who can tune the ECU for me in OKC or dallas if I spend the $$
     

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