I have some torn tendons and ligaments in my left clutch hand form a prior crash years back. Since then its been hard and tiresome to continually engage the clutch where the pain just increases as time goes on after a ride or throughout a trackday/race. By the end of the day, my hand is toast! I'm trying figure out what I can do to my current clutch or what kind of lever should I get that has more of a bent angled design to help make the clutch engagement easier than stock.
If you set up those bikes with a quick shifter and auto blip, you should only need to use the clutch exiting and entering the pits. That would be my suggestion. I can't remember if the 2013 636 had fly by wire, but I believe there are auto blip systems for it. Electronics are your friend.
Auto blip / qs is probably the best option, but if it's not viable for whatever reason, the stunt /dirt worlds offer some options. https://righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.html https://www.revzilla.com/dirt-bike/moose-racing-easy-pull-clutch-system
Ok far as the auto upshift mechanisms I have the Dynojet QS on my ZX-636 (no auto blip). On my ZX10 I have the stock KRT QS (with auto blip). My issue lies with the tension of the clutch "whenever I do have to pull it in", and over time (couple of hours in) the engagement is still being done repeatedly, just that its at different locations where I cant do a quickshift. It still winds up wearing my hand out to the point where I can feel it throbbing going down a straight. I'm going to look into that Moose Easy Pull System to see how that works. Seems like its adding its own (extra) cabling and inside is where the pullies that control the tension are changed up. I still would like a different lever to use that's already constructed to be more bent and closer to the grip to make the pull distance shorter. Feel like I'm going to need both to help me last a full day.
Short of autoblip/qs, I've found that a good aftermarket slipper clutch usually come with components that produce a lighter pull than an OEM clutch. The ramp mechanism works to release pressure in one direction to slip but also increases pressure in the drive direction so that a lighter spring can be used on top of that. Additionally, it seems the slipper clutches with conical disc springs instead of most OEM that have multiple coil springs can run a slightly lower spring pressure. I'm not sure about all their applications but an ASV clutch lever for a GSXR runs a longer pivot arm when you compare it to stock and decreases the pull effort as well noticeably. 15% maybe
Here's something that I found: http://impaktechusa.com/product/easy-pull-clutch-lever/ Not much info on the website, but if you click below, you can get the "mystery" version for $60. http://impaktechusa.com/product/mystery-ez-pull-clutch-lever/ Edit: If you go to their homepage it shows an installed lever towards the bottom. It looks pretty short: http://impaktechusa.com/
That's funny you mention slipper clutch and ASV levers. I have both on my ZX6R, but only have the ASV levers on my ZX10R (no aftermarket slipper). The STM slipper did ease the tension up some just as you describe and the ASV levers reduced the pull distance some. I was recently looking at CRG levers and seems like they have a more bent angled design than most, so I may try them with the moose racing pull system. The design of some of the levers posted mimic shorty's which are more for 2 fingered pulls. That's a no-go for me because I do full hand clutching more toward the end of the bar (gives me more control).
hadn't thought of that, will check that out for sure! does your screen name JCW stand for john cooper works (meaning you have one)
I have a CRG supersport full clutch perch, you can mount the end of the cable into a location that gives you greater leverage and an easier pull.
What's the difference between this CRG supersport and the GP? And what color is yours? PM me your price if you selling.
What are you wearing for gloves? Some of the heavier built ones like Held Titans fatigue my clutch hand in the same way pretty quickly. (I 'blew' my hand apart in 2008, plus I sit at a computer all day so hand strength is not something I have much of either.) Never did manage to actually 'break in' a pair of them... rugged sonofabi... This is why I'm in Heorics, much less effort to open and close your hand, might be worth trying a different glove to see if that's part of the equation?
Sorry, wasn't implying that i was selling I believe the GP has a folding lever, and a different mechanism to take up freeplay. You roll that red lever back and forth and it takes up the slack mid-race.
I have several different pairs of gloves and forget the exact model of each but are priced from $150 - $300. 2 Alpinestars 2 Spidi 1 AGV I’d never ever considered the glove make as a thought ever, so yeah I can see how it can contribute to hand fatigue. I’m def going to get the CRG Supersoort lever sonoroos to SPL170bd for the recommendation. Might not need that Moose clutch pulley. I’m going to have to look into Heorics, never ever heard of them!
One thing to consider with the Heroic gloves is that they come pre-curved. This helps when your hand is on the grip, but might hinder your ability to straighten out your fingers, such as when reaching for the clutch. I certainly do like Heroic gloves and would recommend them anytime. They are built like tanks and a quality piece, but they may not be appropriate for your issue. My recommendation is to find a glove that does not feel constrictive whatsoever, as long as it provides the protection and security features you want. I personally found RS Taichi to be great for my needs. They feel like butter when they are on and do not constrict movement at all for me.
