Paging any expert (tires)

Discussion in 'General' started by rockinchili, Apr 9, 2004.

  1. rockinchili

    rockinchili Well-Known Member

    This is a pretty lengthy post, but if you have some advice, please take a sec to skim it and throw your 2 cents in, whatever it may be. I tried to keep it brief and put the important stuff up top.

    I'm reading all these posts about suspension setup for tires and a confused guy could use a little advice (about tires and setup). I'm going to Barber this weekend (16-18) for the first racing of my life, and would like to make the most out of it...and don't want to land on my head. Here are the facts:

    1. '03 CBR600RR; stock sprung; Galfer race pads/lines; the other essentials (rearsets, 15-45 gearing, damper, etc.) but nothing special

    2. Gutted bike (-63lbs from showroom), I weight 130lbs. Together we are featherweights. The suspension shops actually recommend SOFTER springs than stock in the front and rear even for hard racing.

    3. Been on a track 2 times in my life, one of those at Barber (March14). That day, I ran 1:49s-50s on scuffed H2s with 31/30 F/R pressure and the suspension settings I found on an internet magazine here
    http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_susp_settings/
    I guess my skill level is coming along quickly but still way off pace. I THINK the novice winners at Barber ran like 38s and 39s last year

    4. Although they're prolly not warranted, I got a good deal on these tires so that's what I'll run for the solo20 and F1 races.
    F: Unmounted Mich 1200 Slick (soft); no profile change from stock
    R: Unmounted Mich 18/67 Slick (M soft); unsure if profile changes but the bike runs 180/55 stock

    5. Will use CH standard warmers

    I hear all kinds of crazy stuff about tire wear and Barber being hard on the front and adjusting for this and that but I can't make sense of most of it. Here's what I need the lurkers to chime in on.

    1. At my pace, does any of this even matter?
    2. Pressure and suspension settings. I know that only about 2% of you are on stock sprung 6RRs, but just general remedial advice is appreciated, (ie. "add a little xxx, but go soft on the xxx")
    3. Strategy for using warmers

    Please throw some words on this. I'd prefer specific and constructive, but even if you're doubling lap records on a motard and want to tell me to use Pirellis, any advice is appreciated. If you've read this far, then maybe you give a damn, so HOOK ME UP! :D
     
  2. Robby Card

    Robby Card Well-Known Member

    Just make sure you get the correct amount of sag front and rear. Damping adjustments preferences will be all over the board for different bikes and different riders. Don't be afraid to experiment until you get comfortable with the settings. Generally, it should rebound in the time it takes you to say "one-thousand one" (unless you're from Alabama - just say "one"). Compression should be not too harsh, not too soft - easy enough, right?

    You can't buy a bad race tire if you stick with the big 4. Ask the vendor what compound you should have on that day, on your bike. Do what he tells you.

    If you can't figure something out - ask the guy pitted next to you. You are no threat to anyone running 1:49's, they shouldn't have any reason no to help you - most racers are more than generous with this.

    You'll get chatter in certain bumpy corners - you'll get rear wheel hop in certain bumpy braking zones - it's just part of it. Learn to help tune these things out by asking people. You'll get lots of good and bad advice - experience will teach you which is which.
     
  3. hooter31

    hooter31 Well-Known Member

    what robby said...i run gsxr's so the sag might be allitle different but 35mm in the front and 28mm in the back should be a good starting point.adjust your rebound and compression so the bike goes down and up evenly when you push down on the front of the seat.don't listen to people you can't learn from...if a guy is running 1:40 and tells you that he was pushing the front and sliding the rear something is very wrong.as robbie said any new tires are good,last years 750 superstock races proved that with dunlop,michelin and pirelli all winnig races.the biggest improvement you can make to your bike is making it handle well.save your money to fix that,thermosman,john@ctr,gmd and max at traxxion all do excellent work...welcome to the game,i have competed in sports my whole life and have never found a group of people so willing to help the people they are competing against...good luck:beer:
     
  4. rockinchili

    rockinchili Well-Known Member

    You said it. Thanks and keep 'em coming.
     
  5. motorcycleman

    motorcycleman Well-Known Member

    about your questions

    I also am a novice in the 600 class and i have some info you might use while there at Barber. Tires are personal preference and i have used all the brands available and i like them all. Each tire is a bit different for example: Dunlop is quick to heat up, Pirelli is even quicker, Michelin is a bit slower to heat up a little sqirmy at first but has really exceptional grip after heat up and Bridgestone is quick to heat up and also Stickboy has them at an unbeatable price. Which ever tire you use put the air in them the tire vendor says to because he will know what all the top guys use and just take your time in the first couple of turns to let the race develop. Good luck at the race................
    Oh yeah, i ran 1:39s there last year and Jeff Agnes and Jenson from the North Central were there running 1:37s so a good goal to set for yourself is to get below a 1:45 and goodluck..............rubber side down........
     
  6. rockinchili

    rockinchili Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the advice. Can anyone tell me what a Solo20 race is going to be like at a track the size of Barber?
     
  7. SILVERR6

    SILVERR6 Active Member

    warmers

    The advice I got about using my warmers, Bandit Colts, was to get them heating 45-60 minutes before the first session. At the end of the session you need to look at what your turn around time is going to be, if it's only an hour or 40 minutes then put the warmers on without power then warm them about 20 minutes before heading back out. If the sun is out and it's hot also it is not alweays going to be necessary to heat them, just put the warmers on and let them stay in the sun. The warmers will work like a thermos holding heat in, the same applies when cooling them, the warmers will allow heat to escape at a much slower pace thereby easing the heat cycles.

    I don't know, but that's what I've been told, I'm in the same boat as you. As said above, talk to the tire vendors at the track, they will be able to advise you on using your warmers to optimize performance on your tires.

    If anyone sees any errors in the above info please tell us newbs before we destroy our bikes or our brand new tires...

    :beer: :beer:
     

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