Question - I have a 2002 F350 truck, still in top condition with low miles and I haul with it a lot, nearly every weekend with either a horse trailer or toy hauler. It's got a 10,000 lb bolted-to-frame hitch on it. In the last year or so I've noticed that the receiver hitch pin hole has gotten worn, it is a bit oval-shaped now, so you can rock the hitch up and down a little bit. I notice it most when starting from a stop or backing up, it clunks as it slides forward or back in the receiver frame. It is a significant expense to replace that heavy duty hitch on that 12 year old truck, but of course I want it to be safe for hauling - is the fact that the hitch pin hole is wearing like that a cause for concern? Do hitches have an expected life span? I've seen that it is possible to just repair the hole (shim it or something) to take out the wobble, but I guess I'm worried that if that part is wearing out maybe the whole hitch is due for replacement. Thoughts from the all-knowing beeb?
They do fail from time to time. I see it a lot in my business from my subs hauling construction equipment with their duallys. I don't know that I've ever seen a published guideline on this though.
Your brain is working in the right direction. Get the worn out parts replaced. Make sure your safety chains are secure. It will cost less now than after a failure.
This style pin is what causes that: https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/21500/images/21500_1024x768_a.jpg The turned edge elongates the pin hole. Some of the excursion guys have welded new 1/4" plates w/ holes on each side to reinforce the elonged hole.
6 Myles, I was thinking the same thing. A bit of time with a welder should be much cheaper than a new hitch and work fine.
It's a really common problem. The problem with excursion are that they are welded/riveted to the frame, so replacing the hitch isn't really an option. https://www.google.com/search?q=exc...e=off&tbm=isch&q=excursion+elonged+hitch+hole A couple of pictures down is a repair pic
Ah, I get it now... the "turned edge" is a reference to the "inside of the elbow"....I was thinking it meant it was an issue with it being a cylinder...too much sun this weekend I guess.
well, I was talking on the phone while responding so I probably wasn't as clear as I could have been.
Nothing I'd really be too concerned about, if its sliding fore and aft an inch, yea it might be time to get it fixed. Mine moves and its a brand new truck. Normally around here they rot out before anything wears out on them.
Wow, with the info about the angled hitch pin I was able to find a lot more info about the problem on the web, thanks. I do use an angled pin, the locking type. (I also have a QuietHitch pin that can be tightened down, but since I change between and standard and weight-distributing hitch often, I rarely use it because it complicates/slows the process of changing the hitch.) It is sliding pretty far, probably at least a 1/2 inch, between the elongated hitch pin hole and the play in my adjustable-height hitch. I don't mind the "clunk" but the wobble combined with the freeway-hop on CA freeways will probably accelerate the wear, and my big concern is having the box receiver eventually crack. I don't really trust the idea of hacking off the end of the receiver and welding on a new end (one of the solutions I saw on an RV site), but I'm going to look into the idea of welding in a washer or new material to get the hole back to the right size. I'm also going to price a new hitch - replacing it should not be difficult, just expensive since it is a Class IV hitch, but the peace of mind would be better with a whole new one. Most importantly, now that I know what CAUSED the problem, I'll change to a different type of pin to make sure it doesn't keep happening - that was great info, thanks 6_Myles.
I change the ball and the ball mount every two-three years. I was changing the pin at the same time, too. Now I'll get that one pictured.
Why do you change the ball and ball mount that often? On mine the chrome finish is looking worn and all else seems OK - it is probably at least 8 years old. Does the ball wear out and if so, how can you tell?
Peace of mind. Metal stresses. A little bit of slop transmits a lot more force under directional changes than does a tight assembly. Do you wanna save $50 to find out the limits of the metallurgy with a few tons tagging along behind you?
A worn receiver can cause the pin to shear right off. That bit of movement means a huge peak load when it changes direction. I've seen several solutions,. One is to drill out the receiver and fit top-hat-shaped hardened sleeves and custom pin. A larger diameter pin with a freshly-machined hole would work, too, but of course that requires setting up a precision drilling device on the hitch, or removing the hitch and setting it up in a fixture. I do it a different way. I buy a new car every three to five years and order a new trailer hitch Then it is somebody else's problem.
That is part of why I am asking these questions - I have never kept a truck this long! I never thought I would be willing to haul with a 12 year old truck, but it only has 75,000 miles on it and it still looks and runs like new, I only use it for hauling, just can't see the sense in paying $65,000 for a new one. You guys have convinced me to replace the hitch - the damage to the hitch pin hole is pretty small but the overall wear and tear means it is probably safer to just get a new one. Any recommendations for the best way to find an installer for a heavy duty hitch? I tried calling some places (Ford dealer and U-Haul for example) and they don't do Class IV hitches.
Thanks for this thread. I have the same problem. I will be switching pins and may replace my whole hitch too
I know you said that you have a silent pin option, but this is the best thing that i've found to eliminate slop. This should take all of the play out of your pin problem. http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Roadmaster/RM-061.html
