another cycling thread: felt F5 vs. giant tcr composite

Discussion in 'General' started by light 3, Sep 12, 2012.

  1. ThrottleAbuse

    ThrottleAbuse Will Race for CASH!

    I run their mtb tires. Although I a seriously considering running some of the Specialized tires next. And I am currently running Bontrager R3's and race x lite tubes. Swear they were not offering the R3 TLR tire a few months back. I will give them a try.
     
  2. misterwaterfall

    misterwaterfall squid status commence

    There are some instances when you just need to make it over a small rise and need to drop a few gears to do so. Local crit is a good example where most riders just cross chain it and stay on the big ring up front but drop totheir highest gear in the back to get over a small hill so they can get right back up to speed on the other side.
     
  3. STT-Rider

    STT-Rider Well-Known Member

    Makes sense. The only time I intentionally cross chain in 42x34 when I'm doing a long super chunky downhill on the MTB. Of course now with the XTR w/party switch is out the cool kinds don't have to do that.
     
  4. STT-Rider

    STT-Rider Well-Known Member

    You're not going crazy, they haven't been out long...maybe six-eight weeks max or and they went onto back order status quickly.
     
  5. murray696

    murray696 Active Member

    I cross chain on climbs a lot, trying to stay on the big ring up front, need just a little more gear and don't feel like dropping one up front and clicking 2 over in the rear at the same time.

    SRAM specifically list that capability as a feature in the manual and encourages it.

    Anyone who hasnot seriously considered SRAM road gear should give it an honest look. I think there is an mentality among many that there is only shimano just because they have been doing it so long and haven't really considered anything else. Everyone I know who has tried it loves the SRAM stuff.
     
  6. SmokeSignalRT

    SmokeSignalRT Fat Member

    Im on the SRAM force and always stay in the big ring and cross chain is never an issue.
     
  7. trussdude

    trussdude Well-Known Member

    Cross chaining will wear your chain out quicker.
     
  8. misterwaterfall

    misterwaterfall squid status commence

    I want to go Red on my new build but damnit if it isn't expensive.

    Maybe it'll only last 5000 miles then. To most a non issue
     
  9. STT-Rider

    STT-Rider Well-Known Member


    Since you mentioned it... I'm a MTB guy and part-time roadie, although Im enjoying road riding more and more. I ride in a dry climate and use purple extreme for my road lube (lubes guns nicely as well) what should I expect for chain life? On the MTB I change a chain at 800 or so miles (60 days it seems) max, but I never need cassettes or chain rings.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2012
  10. trussdude

    trussdude Well-Known Member

    I replaced my SRAM chain at 2,700 miles.
     
  11. murray696

    murray696 Active Member

    I keep my SRAM chain and cassette really clean and lube regularly. I've got over 3000 miles on it so far and it's still quiet, working perfect, and showing little wear. I would say 5000 is probably reasonable. Maybe more. I'm sure it's just like motorcycles, the cleaner you keep it, the longer it last.
     
  12. light 3

    light 3 the bot

    thanks for all the advice. it's still tough for me to decide. i'm gonna try and test each bike and see what i think and then hopefully be able to make a decision. sometimes i lean more towards the felt cuz of all the great reviews it gets and there's just something about it. the giant is great too, but maybe there are too many of them out there? the felt would be a nice change.

    what do you guys think about BB30? is it a make or break deal when buying a bike?
     
  13. Number400

    Number400 Well-Known Member

    I would find a local craigslist bike that someone overpaid for and snap it up. Use bikepedia for research. If you fix motorcycles, you can figure out bicycles.

    I currently have two carbon bikes. One is a Scattante CFR Comp. I bought new from a pawn shop. Was my first carbon road bike and is bomb proof. It is heavier but stiff and strong and raced pretty well. I use it as my training and all weather bike now. It has Shimano Ultrega/105 mixed components.

    My other bike is a Scott Addict r4. Fantastic bike! SRAM rival build. It was a steal in the local classifieds compared to it's original retail cost.

    Big rule is to get fitted and invest in sensible wheels. Also, buy a bike set up for your primary use, not for the odd race or two. If you plan to start racing, you WILL upgrade your bike, everyone does, so buy a raceable model.

    The Shimano - SRAM comparison boils down to preference.

    IMHO, both have their strengths and weaknesses. My Shimano stuff is butter smooth and very forgiving. A mere swipe in the general direction of the shifter provides a silent and smooth shift.

    The SRAM is more mechanical and harsh but is more reliable and gives a soild amount of feedback because of it. The double tap shifter system is quite smart and makes sense. One drawback is that if you are snoozing and at the end of your gears and try to grab one more, it goes the other way and you get an opposite shift. Imagine trying to grab your imaginary 7th gear on your motorcycle and it going into 5th instead. Sucks when climbing :)

    Bicycle road racing is almost as fun a motorcycle racing and in some ways is more satisfying. Believe it or not, the injury danger is almost the same too so be careful.
     
  14. light 3

    light 3 the bot

    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  15. STT-Rider

    STT-Rider Well-Known Member

    Good stuff for sure. At your (or my) level you wont go wrong with a Trek, Giant, Specialized, etc... I would buy from a local dealer who will be there to help you with fit and any future issues.
     

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