Real costs of getting into cycling?

After riding the 12 hour race, mtb/trail, I think that I need to bump up to the $2,500 category. I had a Specialized Stump Jumper and it was getting all of me to keep that bike going at the pace that it needed.

I just rode my old, 1997 Jamis Dragon, hard tail and all that thing is still is sweet. Quality parts are still that quality.

 

Or ride the loose stuff.

 

I'm about ready to pull the trigger tommorrow on a Trek 5200. He's asking $1k but I think $800 will buy it. I haven't seen it yet, so it's still a iffy thing. Any recommendations on what I should look for? He says it's a '05 or '06, carbon, Spd pedals...Shimano Ultegra.,.anything else?

 

There is a relief cut on the frame for the seat post. Inspect that for cracking. It's the most common point of failure I've seen on those frames. My impression is that they are a little heavy for carbon frames but my friends rave about the comfort and that's a tradeoff I'd make everytime.

 

Go get fitted at a bike shop, buy yourself a nice set of padded shorts, a water bottle and cage, and a high pressure bike pump, and then pick up something used on craigslist. Pedal pedal pedal until you fall in love with it or give it up completely.

For example, I just picked up a Cannondale 3000si with full dura ace and kyserium wheels on craigslist for $345. Yeah it's a 10yr old bike but it's a 10yr old bike that pros were winning on. Something like that should serve you just fine 'til you feel the need to go nuts with the new trick isht.

 

If you did you'd be in better shape when you dumped the bicycle and bricks and got back on your motorcycle.

My theory came from when I switched from a heavy mountain bike to a nice roadbike, then added clipless pedals later. With each upgrade, it got easier and easier to ride and I had to ride longer and further to get the same workout.

 

I bought a $400 Specialized Hardrock, a helmet and gloves, and some decent grips from Gary Schilling (gdawg) and I ride that sucker everywhere. I probably spent about 100 bucks on miscellaneous stuff like lights, seat bag, pump, etc. I know there are way better bikes out there but I have fun on the road and trails on my cheap bike.

 

If all you want is a workout, pickup an exercycle at a yard sale. Probably be able to get it for almost free, there is a reason there are thousands of them out there. No fun, lots of pain = give up.

 

ISM saddles are the answer,saddle is ugly and a touch heavy but they work

 

I am selling 2 mountain bikes since we upgraded here is my add on CL

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/bik/2803703966.html

 

I've got this bike and love it. That's a good deal on that one if it fits you. Those things were like $2600 new.

Mark

 

As always, elegant in your descriptions . .

By the way, the Bushys was excellent last year.

 

Go UP Grades.
Don't buy upgrades.

 

For me, a day on Gooseberry Mesa riding every inch of trail on the mesa and never putting a foot down is as good as it gets or a day on the Rainbow Rim riding 30 miles of single track along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon..yummy!

Bonnie likes road riding more than me, so we may be doing a bit more of it, we'll see.

 

What was/is that bike that had the horizontal seat post? I don't think it's in production anymore.

 

Murray something or other. Had a beam that the seat clamped onto.. soft ride was the name IIRC

 

Softride.

 

I just got into the sport 2.5 months ago so unfortunately I didn't meet the Joe Morris cost effective requirement.

I bought it used off CL but only after doing some major research. Highly recommend looking into any make/model BEFORE considering a purchase. What am I talking about?

It's simple really, a specific size frame by one manufacturer isn't necessarily the same with a different model, let alone a different make altogether. So if you get fitted by your local LBS on a Trek, say 54CM, don't assume that size will be good for every other bike out there.

I bought a slightly used Jamis Ventura Race for roughly $900 (new about $1400) it normally comes with Shimano 105 components but the former owner had upgraded to Ultegra so I figured it was a no brainer. Since then, like the morons we tend to be when we buy new toys, I couldn't leave well enough alone so I made a relatively cheap upgrade in buying a set of 'ok' wheels that actually shaved off another pound or so. I had to change the seat cuz my taint was killing me with the skimpy lil seat they tend to come with, added two O2 bottle holders, clipless pedals, a mini pump and under the saddle bag. For those on a budget who don't need the flashy name branded stuff, give Nashbar a good look on frequent discounts on clothing.

Lastly, you might wanna give this site a look if you want to buy something and don't care if it has a big name brand on frame, they have a several REALLY nice bikes with top end components.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm


Once I meet, at a minimum, Joe's little equation with my current ride AND I feel the bug continue to grow.......I've already picked this bike out next, it's no top end branded frame but it's components seem t be on par with many of them and that's good enough for me.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/lechamp_cf_ultegra_di2.htm Electronic shifting!!! Are you kidding me?!?! lol

 

Be careful buying used... tune ups with cassettes and chains can be pricey

 

Good stuff makes a big difference once you reach a certain level and can actually save you money. If you ride a lot you can continue buying "ok" stuff multiple times or you can buy high end once. Chris King hubs, BBs and headsets for example.