Anyone ever dyno difference between oring and non-oring chain?

We are just stepping up to a SV650. When I got it I noticed how hard it was to push compared to the RS125. When you put in on a rear wheel stand you can see how much harder the rear wheel is to spin. I took off the chain and it spun much easier, so I bought a new Regina X something or other chain. Still hard to spin after putting on the new chain, so maybe that's just the way it is with O-Ring 520 chains.

On a 415 non-o-ring chain that wheel will spin for quite awhile.

So any dyno comparisons? Or is this like a front wheel that doesn't spin well from brake drag. Once you heat it up and come off the track it spins much better.

 

I would think once the lub on the pins warms up its going to free it up a lot more. I cant see the seals creating a lot of drag or they would tear themselves to pieces quickly.

 

Drag is drag, o/x ring chains will cost you a little horsepower to the rear wheel.

 

On little bikes like 125s or 250 Ninjas, even 250 GP, it makes a noticeable difference. On a bigger horsepower bike, the engine has enough power to overcome the drag and the difference is not as evident. Anything like a modern 600 or bigger will destroy a non o-ring chain after just a couple hundred miles or less.

 

You'd never see the difference on an inertia chassis dyno, the margin of error from run-to-run is far greater than the difference in chains. It would take a specific lab setup with a smaller absorption dyno to sort this out. Search the interwebs, some chain manufacturer or lab will have the info available, I'm sure.

 

I actually built a chain "dyno" about 10 years ago. C/S was driven off a small electric motor with an amp meter wired in.
Comparing both an oring and non oring chain cold, the oring chain took almost 2X the amperage to maintain the same speed as the no oring chain. But once warmed up to 115F, the oring chain actually matched the the current draw of the non oring at the same speed.
But similar to what Rick said, I think the issue is more about longevity and reliability. FWIW Tdub

 

just run the oring, unless you like changing chains five times a year instead of once, for a 1/6 hp gain on cool days.

 

That's actually really useful, good work. Interesting how once it's warmed up it's got no more drag than the non-O-ring.

 

Thanks for the good technical info. I appreciate you sharing it.

 

Yea but so will a rusty worn out chain, take your pick

 

90% sv guys don't even lube chains, never mind O-ring drag

 

we had a competitor in late 90's trying to get more hp out of their TLR superbikes than i was and one of their techs (now with me for 6+years) said they would cheat and run 1 or 2 runs with non oring chain..on the TLR saw like 4-5rwhp! (i still dont believe) but said after 2-3 runs the chain was shit...one time it broke and snapped cases..hahaha...was fun story at least. They never did beat us and later closed up shop (same guy was the pirelli douche bag that ripped everyone on west coast off! go figure)

I think if you have ever seen on a dyno say a good/well taken care of DID ERV3 you would see..very little drag and more than enough strength for even those "210rwhp" bmw's

 

Great info

 

I ran non o ring chains back in the day, and also on my Norton when I raced it vintage. Vastly prefer O ring chains. You guys who have never run a non o ring chain would not believe how quickly they deteriorate. (That means wear out, EDR)

 

So I wonder what horsepower differences exist between chains. I've got some ex-AMA flattrack buddies that would dyno chains and pick the one with the best numbers "back in the day".

As Rick said though, tearing up a chain per weekend doesn't sound particularly enjoyable to me.

 

Eddie, I was working for TCR over in Flint when I did the chain testing. We would not even consider using an Oring chain for the 100Hp XRs. Tdub

 

I tried a reg chain on a 600 s/s back in 2001, lasted two practice sessions, and snapped off. A clean o-ring can last two years easy. $200 is cheap compared to engines.

 

Had to have been an el-cheapo no name...

 

I often see bikes where the chain is adjusted too tight... Just look at the chain failure John Mc had at the TT two years ago... You MUST find a way to get that rear suspension parallel so that the chain is at it's tightest point.. and adjust from there...

Oh yes, the X-Ring chain seems to require less lube as well as having less friction compared to the O-Ring chain...

Cheers..!!

Ron

 

We being on a roadrace bike make over 100hp, doing speed of up to 160 i would thing a normal chain just isnt going to cut it, lubed to hell or not.