I ride a 2006 gsxr 600 and just last week i was riding and hit my kill switch when i tried to start my bike back up it would not turn over. I jumped it from my friends bike and it started. Ever since it is slow to start and if i try to start it right after i have been riding it is super slow to start or will not start at all. Does anyone one know what this could be? Thanks guys- ride safe
Your charging system could not be working very well. First thing first. Recharge the battery. Then see what voltage you are getting at above 5k rpms. It should be 13.8-14.2.
If the charging system is working, then check the battery itself. It may be getting charged, but not holding it well.
Turn the kill switch to the "ON" position. Have any video of that? How far where the bikes spaced? I'd ride with your buddy. Figures you can woopee a cushion, you might video that jump is how you start that bike. I wanna see how you land on the seat as to get it running. Me thanks we have an original battery running with that bike? Since your buddy has the good jump, sounds like the battery; if the hop on the seat and the kill position are within jumping range, I'd say if the bike runs, it sure is recharging the seat foam for another jump on the fire up.
I replaced my stator cover about an month ago. Could I have damaged or or not hooked it completly? I also heard from a friend that is could possibly be vapor lock...? is that possible
That's what the checking for the voltage at over 5k is doing. ....checking to see how your stator is working but you have to have your battery charged first. vapor lock affects the fuel tank.
The bike runs when it is jumped and can drive away until restarting is needed again. Where is the vapor lock? You may have changed the stator, but was the battery getting low on charge is the WHY you changed the stator or the cover from a crash. Which?
use volt meter? I am assuming I am going to use a volt meter..? where would i put the lead or spot to check voltage? thanks bro
Sorry bro been out of town. Yeah i charged the battery and when i rode this morning the second time I started it up got the same slow start.
It doesn't mean the battery is toast...it can still be the charging system. did you check the charging voltage the first time starting it up after you had it recharged?
Com = Common ground. That is the black lead off the ohm meter. A/C = Is a plug to measure the 3 yellow wires [color for argument sake] out of the stator. Stator make A/C (alternating current), so your red meter lead would be set to 50v or above. The stator might arch out 30 something volts, so you click it past the 25v-a/c to a higher reading on the ohm meter. (+) = Your red positive lead to measure ohms resistance and D/C (direct current) volts. To measure if the bike is charging: Set the 'com-black in the ohm meter, the red meter lead to the (+) meter's female plug. Now, you dial the DC meter to run 25v or past anything under 12v DC. Start the bike. Set the com-ground on the battery post (-) side. Set the red meter probe on the positive (+) side of the battery. What does the battery read? You could see the current drop by simply turning the key fob to ON. Then watch the voltage drop. That meter runs down to 11v or under, battery is not cutting it. Another way: Keep the probes in play or let the bike idle and then probe the battery leads once again. You should see 14.?v at idle. It should be bleeding some A/C into the rectifier so things balance back. See anything past 13v or14v at idle or revving the engine a little, it is not the charging system but the, bat tear wee uh on the same page?
if the charging system was toast the bike would die while he was riding it. i don't believe in his shutting it off and then having a problem starting is a coincidence of the battery running out of charge just as he decides to stop. _____________________ your battery will prolly show a good voltage after charging but, it can't hold it nor can it put that power out under load. as the bike is running, you're basically running off the alternator thru the ghost battery. wanna confirm it? charge the battery. check the voltage, key off. check the voltage, key on. watch it drop more than .25-1v. hit the brakes and high beam, watch it drop even more. hit the starter, watch it die down to 4-7v. if it's really bad, it'll go lower than a volt but that's usually a damaged battery. even if the battery can turn the motor over at starting speed with its reduced voltage, the ecu will not operate with less than 10.5v. your battery is over three years old if it's original. if you get 4-5 years of life you did fantastic. if you get less, you prolly do a lot of short hops, adding stress to its lifespan.
I gave a more generic, How-To use an ohm meter? The charging was more a given being the battery is obvious to us. Dis is the internet. Don't need to list the whole charging troubleshooting guide like loose battery leads or white crustizzfuckiss on the posts. Beats me? Dis ear the internet with limited info. How you gonna diagnose but drain it out of 'em. Good clean-up post, btw.
