Scotts Oil Filter

Has anyone used the Scotts Aluminum oil filter and would you recommend it? Looks pretty cool, just not sure if its worth $110.

 

Leave that stuff for the stuntaz & the bilngy boys.Get a factory oil filter.Oh & btw wtf are they thinking $110 for an oil filter:wow:

 

They are thinking "show me the money"

 

I saw a report on the Scott's filters somewhere and it showed that their mesh metal filter will let through particles about twice the size that any paper filter would let through so it doesn't sound too good to me.

 

I have one and I love it

(so does my engine)

 

the reason i bought one, and like it, is it's ability to be easily disassembled. i can see what's getting caught in the filter every time i 'change' it.
do you cut your paper filters open?
do you use a new one every event?
do you do ten events per year?
do you cut the filter open every time?
time, money and mess are saved with the scott's.
mine's going on four years of age.

 

Mine was free and is on my streetbike with zero problems. I change the oil (MX4T) and wash the filter every 2k miles. I like the fact it has two magnets to pick up debris and the housing is extruded to aid in cooling.

If you run the stocker the only magnet is the oil drain plug.

 

Here's a good article on oil filters. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

 

If your like me and you change your oil and filter between each event I think it would be a worthwhile purchase because you would have paid for your Scotts probably in 5 oil changes and then after that you can forget it! I just haven't gotten one yet.

 

just in case anyone's interested in more opinions...
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?threadid=45231&highlight=filter
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?threadid=41613&highlight=filter
it's hard to argue with real numbers. the scott's numbers are absolute. paper numbers are an average.
35 microns=.00138", that's what the scott's filters to...about the clearance on really tight crank bearings. anything larger, as allowed by paper filters, and it's going thru your crank bearings, piston/cyl gap, etc.
the argument that paper filters down to 10 microns and/or less is mute. their average is higher than scott's absolute, tho' i can't find an 'avg' number for paper. hmmm.
the only places on a motor that are close to 10 microns are wrist pins which can fail due to oil starvation caused by blockages and valve guides whose failures are prolly caused by sludge that prevents proper lubrication...maybe, from crappy filtering by paper elements???
i'm not being opinionated...just resigned to my reality.
your reality may vary.
to help with your reality, the purolator 'pure one' filter mentioned here... http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters says(my inference) it can outperform the scott's 99.8% of the time. i read that as, "for the 999th and 1000th time the oil completes a cycle thru the motor, something bad gets thru...always."
for a stock motor, maybe, it's not worth the investment. for a built motor? why wouldn't you do the most to protect it?

 

Or you could say the Purolator filter captures 99.2% @ 20 microns where the Scotts captures 0.00% @ 20 microns.

So you're saying the Scott's takes out 100% of everything above 35 microns, but lets thru everything below 35 microns. Where as the paper filters take out 99.8% of everything above 30 microns and 99.2% above 20 microns.

From
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters
(your source):
"These filters (Scotts-style) typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. "

 

that's correct, except for the "paper filters take out 99.8% of everything above 30 microns and 99.2% above 20 microns." part. that's a claim given to the purolator-pure one, only, by a guy that has nothing better to do than waste his education pursuing other disciplines.

at 65 microns(.0025"), fine sand - i guess, more corse than the kind blowin' around the mideast desert*, has no chance of going thru a scott's filtered motor.
with a paper filter? by the time you finish a race, who knows how many times that sand has had an opportunity to find an unprotected bearing?(read: slipped thru the cracks)
in my duc, it takes about 90 seconds for the oil to fully charge the passages at idle, leaving 1-2(?) quarts in the pan. so, lessay 3 minutes, at idle, to cycle the oil.
3 min/1k rpm=1 cycle
15 min/10k rpm=50 cycles (let's call it a sprint race)
scott's larger than 35 microns=never
pure one(0.2%) larger than 30 microns=10 times per race(potentially)
now, our mad scientist espousing the virtues of the purolator doesn't know/can't tell us how big a particle the pure one will pass. lessay it's small...like 35 microns. you're still buying one everytime you change the filter. i'm done buyin' filters and i don't have a mess when i want to see what's goin' thru my motor. for me, that's all i need.

"These filters (Scotts-style) typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. "
typically, lasers aren't so inaccurate that they can't consistently cut the same size hole. paper isn't consistent, much less accurate...and when did this guy become an expert on the subject?
he should leave it to professionals.

btw, my surfin' results show paper filters to average in the neighborhood of 50-60 microns of particle passage. damn near fine sand. 'course, when it comes from the competitor's mouth, who can ya trust?
i trust absolute numbers. real science used by nascar, formula 1, nasa, you-name-it, etc...they ain't buyin' their filters at jiffy-lube. i don't know if they endorse the technology literally but, certainly, they do in practice. if it's good enough for them...

*why do i mention mideast sand? if you've ever seen it, you know it's more akin to dust. sand is a misnomer. the shit almost floats in the air...gets everywhere and in everything. add liquid and you've got a nice rubbing/lapping compound.

 

scotts filters are total garbage. nowhere in industry does anybody use a mesh filter when honest filtration is important. everyone uses 3D media filters.

if you have a race engine that has crazy loose cam and crank clearances, and you need maximum flow to keep the psi up, the first place to start would be by shiming the engines pressure releif valve and find a high flow element filter. if psi was still low, only then would i look at a scotts. but i would not consider it a "filter". it just does not filter fine enough. use one with the understanding that your engine will suffer for it. if that is in your budget, then go for it.

i have begun planning an experiment to determine which media filters have the highest flow rate. hopefully this will get done over christmas.


http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/oilfilter2.htm

 

I don't understand why the Purolator Pure One filter always comes into play when talking about motorcycle filters, considering you can't get one for a motorcycle.

Its factory vs. scotts if you can't make, nor have facts about the factory filters you don't have a case.

BTW I use the Purolators in my 4 wheeled machines, they are great, too bad they don't make bike filters.

 

To bad they don't make Wix filters for bikes...

 

Pure One does have some automotive filters that will fit certain bikes like Hondas. I believe Wix might also. If you go to Mr. Verdone's (PVD) sight listed above he discusses this and has links to many other sites that have similar information.

 

Usually NAPA numbers are just the last four digits of the WIX #. Napa Gold # 1358 is identicle to WIX #51358 , an interchange for honda motorcycles.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51358

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/motorcycle.asp

 

Whats a Honda?

 

Here's a good site for cross referenceing PURE 1 and other filters. It's a little outdated but many of the newer bikes use the same filter as their older models and as you can see a single model filter can be used on many different bikes. Just check your factory part nos. to see if they're the same as another bikes. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

 

My day job (which I am taking a break from at the moment to type this!) involves working with construction equipment OEM's on the design and installation of custom tailored diesel engines into their new equipment models. Each OEM company has a different development process. But one common thread is each company has an actual, end-use verfication step. The machine/engine is put to work in a challenging duty cycle and monitored closely. At the end its torn down and analyzed. If all's well then that is the exact spec that is launched into production Its not changed. Its proven.

I think the same applies here to the mysteries and marketing babble surrounding oil filtration. If you are using a certain style or brand of filter and it has a given you a proven history of working well in the hell you put it through, then you've verfied your system. Congratulations and keep using what you're using!

That said, like every other poster I am not without an opinion about what's best. Mine is the "gold standard" of the cage racers and also used by some of the IRL and CART teams up the road from me - Canton Mecca oil fitration http://www.cmfilters.com/tech.cfm.

CM's filters effectively to 8 microns while being strong enough (like the Scotts) to take extremely high oil pressures and therefore eliminate the bypass valve. Without the bypass the engine always receives filtered oil, even on cold, April morning starts with 15W50. The only problem (besides the cost) is they don't fit! They have a spin-on version with 20mm threads, but its too long at 4 1/4" and interferes with my header tubes. Hopefully CM will come out with a 3 1/4" or 2 5/8 length that would work on the bikes. Hmm, maybe if enough of us start emailing them.....

So, of available spin-on filter options I go OEM Yamaha (made by Denso in Japan) or NISSAN 15208-65F00. The last time I looked at a Bosch 3300 that is recommended by several of the websites linked in previous posts, it had metal "swarf" hanging on the threads due to a poor cutting operation. NOT very confidence building. Especially since that metal shaving would have ended up in the clean side of the filter. Its next stop - my oil galley. The NISSAN OEM filters come shrinkwrapped inside their cardboard box and are nice and clean looking. They don't have that cheap, "cost reduced" look/feel of the U.S. aftermarket brands. Plus, I know they were built by a company that expects 60+ hours/week out of their employees and religiously uses continuous improvement methods. Did I mention some of my OEM's are Japanese? Can you guess who tends to make the better developed equipment?

Just my $0.02