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Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Monsterdood, May 2, 2022.

  1. cu260r6

    cu260r6 Well-Known Member

    I have an ever-so-slightly cracked tank. How can I repair the composite material? Various types of JB weld did not work sufficiently.
     
  2. nd4spd

    nd4spd Well-Known Member

    https://www.polyvance.com/ These guys may have something for it. I've used their Plastifix to repair fairing cracks.
     
  3. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    Any advice on what causes the quick shifter to stop working? Ran two laps and over the course of the third lap it intermittently would not downshift and then went to not working up or down. Haven’t had the chance to totally open up the bike but nothing visible appears to be wrong.
     
  4. Badger911GT3

    Badger911GT3 Well-Known Member

    When my quickshifter doesn't work, I know it as soon as I shift from 1st to 2nd, because the gear icon in the bottom of the dash turns from orange to red, instead of orange to black. In that case, the QS doesn't work up or down.

    The last few months, I've been trying to wait at least 30 seconds after turning the key before I push the starter button. Some have suggested the electronics need time to wake up before turning the bike on. This seems to help, but I haven't been very scientific or rigorous with testing.
     
  5. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    And now the motor won’t rev when the bike is in gear. Does rev fine in neutral. Flashes a couple of the rev limiter lights when trying to apply throttle.
     
  6. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Not sure about that issue but don't use the autoblip feature, you'll run into transmission issues
     
  7. kman0066

    kman0066 Well-Known Member

    Make sure everything is tight on the quickshifter. A loose shifter can cause faulty signals. Also, if you shift multiple times too quick, it seems to cause issues as well. Once the ECU determines something is wrong, it's disabled until you turn the bike on/off. I've found being methodically slow at downshifts while braking works well, just can't bang down the gears fast.

    As for not revving, that's a weird one. Is your clutch switch installed and ok? Do you have the race ECU or flashed ECU with a pit speed limiter and accidentally engaged it?
     
  8. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all the responses. Just got the bike and had it on track one day without issues. Changed wheels this morning and torqued to spec which seems totally high to me. Anyway since that was the only thing that was changed I backed off the nut and it revved and shifted fine.
    Modern electronics!!
     
  9. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    One last note on this. The wheels have aftermarket rotors. They are 1mm thinner than stock rotors which changes the distance from the tone ring to the sensor. I know you all have said that distance it very critical.
     
    regularguy likes this.
  10. Monsterdood

    Monsterdood Well-Known Member

    Oh yeah, you HAVE to shim the sensor to maintain the 0.5-2mm range. Aprilia makes little wheel speed sensor shims for this. Or use OEM thickness rotors.
     
  11. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    I found that one of the wheels only has a .20 mm gap between the tone ring and the sensor, the other wheel is at .25 mm gap. The .20 will only shift up no auto blip down, the .25 does both fine. This is quite a bit off the gap range you have given and I would like to get it to the recommended spacing. You mentioned Aprilia makes shims for the sensor. Do you happen to have a part number? Is there some other material to use for shims?
     
  12. Monsterdood

    Monsterdood Well-Known Member

    I don’t have a part number, I got them at the race track when I had an issue. I’m sure Aprilia dealers / mechanics would have them. Earlier in this thread I think someone clarified the target gap is 1mm but I rechecked and the range in the manual is 0.5-2mm. You could probably make a shim out of a few layers of AL foil if you wanted to hold you over until you get a proper shim.
     
    yokohama1 likes this.
  13. cosan

    cosan Well-Known Member

    I’ve heard a few rumblings of the rapid bike tuner causing issues, intermittent loss of power specifically.
     
  14. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    Interesting. My teammate used it extensively last year without issues but I am not convinced it is the way to go. When I got my bike it had a Jet Prime tuner and a stock ECU. Previous owner took out the race ECU to sell separately. I’m went with the rapid bike with the experience last year. Curious what people’s opinions are for engine management as there are a number of options.
     
  15. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    I'm curious about this as well. I've looked at 3 bikes all with different tuning options. One has a race ECU from Aprilia, one has a Gabro tune (flash) and one has the Jetprime tuner.

    I assume the Jetprime can only control fueling- timing is in the ECU. So a flash can change both. Gabro advertises a bunch of maps for various mods.

    Also there's standalone quick shift and autoblippers, I'm curious as to how those work.

    On the FZ we use Woolich with the Bazzaz trimming fuel and this works well.

    I would think that the attraction of the higher tech bikes like these is you can use the Kit ECU- but I don't know how you tune for fuel or mods.

    If you're going to flash it, what is the advantage of the race ECU?

    We have someone down here who went whole hog and built a harness with dash and Motec ECU- but this is big bucks and requires a lot of time figuring stuff out.
     
  16. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    There is a lot of debate about the tuning and the race ECU. The race ECU isn't like a yec ECU etc it's not really customizable in that way from what I've been told. You can flash the stock ECU but it's really expensive. The race ECU or upmap and a secondary tuner like rapid bike seems to be the way to go.
     
    Gino230 likes this.
  17. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    What about using the stock ECU with the rapid bike tuner?
     
  18. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    I believe you would need to have it either flashed (expensive) or something like a upmap to unlock the features and get the most out of it
     
  19. regularguy

    regularguy Always Krispy

    Robem has the software and hardware to tune thru the ECU. We don't use piggyback controllers. One thing that's quite interesting about the 660, it's quite indifferent to AFR and runs really good even if it's very rich. As long as you're not dangerously lean, it doesn't care
     
    Gino230 likes this.
  20. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    If you're going to flash it anyway, is there an advantage to flashing the Race ECU vs the Stock one?
     

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