So why does everything continue to work. The only thing that doesn’t is the burners don’t get red hot as if they only have 120 going to them. You don’t have to be a dick about it. Asshole. Oops I meant asshole.
Yeah, this is why I’m asking now. Who said I’ve used it otherwise? I’m just asking for advice. Doofus.
Blow me. Ya kweer. The reason some things work and others don’t is that you have both 120v and 240v loads in the cooktop, and the 120v loads are backfeeding through neutral to give you half power to the 240v circuits. Disconnect the cooktop, ensure you have 120v from each phase to neutral and 240v potential between them. Then you’ve isolated the problem to the cooktop, and Best Buy is open til 10.
And what if it isn’t isolated to the cooktop? And everything works with the exception of the burners getting red hot. They got hot eventually. So what’s the cause of them only receiving 120v?
Then you’re in luck and the spark in the cooktop was just St. Elmo’s Fire, and the gremlins took mercy on you and restored your cooktop to perfect working order and fuxored your dilithum crystal transmogrified beta cuck doohickey.
You’ve lost a phase. 99.9% of the time it’s in the appliance. Which is why you start with disconnecting the appliance and verifying proper voltage and phasing at the connection point.
Dude, seriously? The cooktop is not wired directly to the breaker. There’s a junction in the cabinet under the cooktop that you need to disconnect and isolate your premise wiring from the cooktop to determine which side is affected.
Like pickled egg says, the cooktop where you saw the arcing is likely fried. you could have lost a neutral, you could have lost a phase, or you may have partially fried wiring (the most likely to cause a fire and the most likely to have happened) in the cooktop. There is a terminal strip where the house wiring connects to the cooktop. Disconnect the house wiring and test there. If the house wiring is not melted, burned, or otherwise destroyed, and you have 120 hot to neutral on both phases, and 240 phase to phase, then the problem is likely the cooktop. And for good measure, replace the breaker. It's worth the $20 for peace of mind.