Awesome thread. I just picked up a trailer a couple weeks ago and this is what I've been installing in my trailer floor...expensive. I went with it for 1 real reason: stud fittings give you a lot of possibilities. I modified a couple aluminum Condor chocks to work w/ the L-track. Its pretty slick to be able to change bike position for tongue weight or different bike styles. Once I wrap up my trailer I'll post pics. Most spray foam insulation expands significantly will buckle the walls. I'd stay away. Condor makes a couple e-track adapters: One, Two There is also a chock which plugs right into L-Track (this is what i used for my idea to modify my Condor chocks): Link Agreed. I was thinking of using riv-nuts on my aluminum framing (wall studs) for track and such. PO put a few e-Track bolts right into framing...didn't seem good w/ just a single thread or so of contact.
Was wondering the same thing Seems if you do it in stages to allow the foam somewhere to expand it might work w/o bulging the interior or exterior panels Maybe start 1 foot from floor & do it in 1 ft increments all the way up to the top ??
there are low expansion foams available. it would be prohibitively expensive, imho. a better way, would be to remove the interior panels, line the all cavities with rigid foam insulation and fill the gaps with low-e foam, then replace the panels.
I was looking for some Gas Tank Racks for my 3 Rail trailer I use for track transport... I ended up making my own... I just run a bungy across the top and they work great... Im sure you could do the same for other trailers enclosed/open... Total Cost with Hardware $13
I used 2 types of rigid foam panels: expanded polystyrene (1" white) and styrofoam (1/2" blue). Reason I used the two types was just to fill 1.5" stud depth. 4'x8' sheets are ~$13 ea. Not too bad to work with; w/ careful measuring they wedge in and stay in on their own (and obviously the sheathing holds them in once installed). I didn't use glue just in case i ever need to pop them out for wiring access. Can be knocked out in a day or two depending on size of trailer.
I'm in the middle of sorting out a 6x10 enclosed that I picked up recently. I have 2 pitbull restraints lined up at the back and a few random hooks and racks that I'm putting on the walls. I've got a handful of eye-bolts that I was going to sink into the floor but I'm not sure on exactly where I want to locate them. .......anyone have any suggestions on good placement locations for them? 1 in each corner, or in the middle someplace??? TIA
For what purpose? The PB restraints should hold the bikes, so what do you want the eye bolts to do? And get the fold down D rings. You'll hate tripping over the eye bolts.
Occasionally haul others bikes I don't have a restraint for and just use a chock up front. I think I'll probably do that, 1 in each corner, and some e-track up the middle.
Snap some pics, I've got a 6x10 as well. When I pull mine out of the barn and get started in a couple weeks I'm going to try and take a lot of pics while setting it up.
That's great. I've got some rubber diamond plate sheet that will go down as one piece for the flooring. Picked it up at a RV supply place. Also picked up a nice alumnium cabinet/bench off CL for $75. Not sure if I should paint the walls white of put up grey carpet.
I debated between white paint or gray carpet, & went with white paint just for the light aspect. I figured a gray trailer would seem pretty dark inside.
I painted my walls a very light gray and used roll on floor paint from Lowes in light grey which is somewhat dark. The walls are also high gloss. E track is cheap and awesome. I put a piece width ways across the floor to be used in conjunction with a removable chock in lieu of Pitbull restraints should I not have the necessary pins. I also got a vertical piece, cut it in half, and put it on the walls just in front of the bikes. Using the 2x4 adapters I attached short pieces of aluminum pipe like axles with removable pins to safely transport spare wheels. Much more secure than hanging a wheel from a wall and the rotors are protected from a fall or shifting of other items.