Real costs of getting into cycling?

Just remember that if you ride seriously, you spend alot of time on your bike. The nice the equipment, the more you will want to use it, the more fun you will have and the less you will suffer. To some extent.

Nobody needs or even can use properly a 6000$ bicycle. There is no rule of thumb as to how much you should spend. Personnally, I started with a used Cannondale R5000 with full Dura Ace group. I paid $1250 and enjoy riding it. It's a decent frame with solid equipment and when I'm on it sweating like a pig, at least I don't worry about stuff breaking down. An investment well worth it, after 5 years of ownership, I still love it. I am considering switching frames to go carbon because I may get a deal and because my aluminium fram got a big dent when I tossed it. But it still works just fine.

 

As guys have mentioned, go to a local shop and have them sit you on a few bikes to recommend a size. Then buy something that is within your budget but give yourself room to spend $250 for a custom fit.

Everyone's flexibility, butt bones, shoulder widths, feet angles, arches in your foot, etc... are different so if you are not comfortable on the bike and do not have the correct seat height, knee angle, correct reach to the bars, correct drop, correct cleat alignment on your shoes, etc.. then you will not even want to ride the bike in the first place because you will experience pain. [saddle sores, knee pain, shoulder pain, neck pain etc...] So I would do that first thing and also a good set of bibs with a nice chamois is crucial as well...

Everything else on the bike component wise is going to be performance oriented. Lighter, stiffer, aero bikes and wheels are only important if you want to race or be a competitive group rider.

But like someone mentioned the heavier and less aero your bike is the more power you have to put out to keep up with someone on lighter equipment. For example if someone weights less than you, is more aero and on lighter equipment and you are riding next to them, they might be putting out 30 less watts than you. So if you are going on a 50 mile ride you might get dropped from the group if your performance isn't where it needs to be, because you are working harder than everyone else.

I made the mistake of buying a carbon bike with super nice components. If I had to do it over again I would have bought a cheaper bike and budgeted my money for a power meter.

 

IMO, spending about $1000 to start cycling is plenty. u can easily do 100 miles a week on a $1000 setup, and if u eventually make it to 300miles/wk... then spend more.

i got into cycling quite a few years ago for around $750. $500 for an Ebay bike, ok components on a mid-90s steel frame w/ some bulletproof wheels, and spent the rest on gear. since then, ive slowly upgraded the bike and all my gear. IIRC, the only thing on the bike that is the same are the wheels, brakes, and shifters. got a better frame that fit and carbon fork for $200, new crank & BB for $125, carbon bars for $150, tons of new gear for birthdays and xmas... and the list goes on and on. my bike is def more comfortable now and a bit lighter, but reliability is about the same. its always just worked.

my roommate actually rides double the miles i do on that original steel frame that i got off ebay. its heavy as shit, but it fits him and his old campy components will never stop working.

 

right? i don't think so. if we just went by theory, we'd fill a backpack full of bricks and ride around with that too.


light is better, its easier, and more fun.

 

If your really 6'2" I'd bet that bike is too small for you. I'm just under 5'11" and ride a 56/57 and I prefer a longer top tube.

There's good info in here, get a decent bike and gear, and make sure it fits and that the bike gets fit for you. Consider it an investment. My road bike that I raced was steel and I rode it for more than 20 years before buy a new giant carbon. That steel frame has over 50,000 miles on it and is now used to help junior racers get into the sport.

 

I spent about $1300 on a end of year closeout roadbike from a shop a couple years ago. I wanted something that was solid and comfortable with good components. Before that, I was on a 1980s Raleigh. Sure I can get a workout on the old bike, but not having to worry about dumb stuff that would always break on the old bike has made it much easier to focus on just pedaling. Also, for me it was worth it to buy from the local shop just because they offer support as long as I own the bike.

As for the rest of the stuff, I prefer the clip-in pedals by far. Add $50-$200 depending on the type of shoes (the rigid soles make a difference too). From a workout standpoint, clip pedals add another muscle group too. Budget for a good helmet at a minimum. Shorts/bib and a Jersey will make you more comfortable but look dumb. I have never worn gloves.

 

Nope... Fits perfect....

 

if you are using the bike to get stronger. why not get a bike that's 100 lbs?

 

Italian geometry in carbon fiber...no regrets.

 

Nice Pinarello. I hear Toseland rides one too : http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/ride-with-james-toseland-around-donnington-park-16796/ NTTAWWT

 

And it's in the Shop too!!

 

A nice steel road frame (that fits you) will last a long time. Dip your toe in the sport before you jump in over your head. Lots of deals out there on used bikes collecting dust.

I ride a road bike strctly for fitness (I dislike road riding because it's boring but it's great for getting fit). I bought a Kona Zing Supeme (used) and it tips the scales south of 17 lbs so it's not a pig. It's fast, stiff and with big seat and chainstays it moves out right now when hammering and it's a ripper decending as well. Problem is, I am more of a recreational type rider and not a racer on a road bike. I'm a puss and won't go fast down winding roads wearing basically underware and a helmet on two contact patches the size of dimes. So I have a nice bike that I really don't care all that much for because it's not the right bike for me.

I should have taken a couple of lbs hit and bought a steel bike that gives me a bit more vertical compliance (better ride) and take the trade off when it comes to out of the seat hammering. I could sell it my Kona and get a different bike but I'm lazy and don't want the hassle but if I was putting on lots of miles I'd replace it.

When it comes to mountain biking I absolutely choose the right tool for the job because I know what the "right tool" is for which job for me. Current quiver consists of a 150mm full susension 26er, a steel 29er hardtail with 100mm fork which I ride SS and geared (sliding dropouts), a 120mm dual suspension 29er and a 80mm dual suspension 29er. I'm on a mountain bike at least five days a week often more and do some 12, 18 and 24 hour races. I could only have one bike it would be the 120mm 29er and the hardtail 29er...ok that's two.

Buy something that fits and go have fun and let us know how it goes.

 

...it was being built:up:

 

Looks fast clamped in the stand! Pretty sexy.

 

My team gets free dainty taint butter through one of our sponsors, problem solved... I don't use that crap, though, if your bike is properly adjusted and you wear good clothing there shouldn't be a need.

Shorts and jersey may look stupid, but there's a very good reason people wear them.

Wear gloves, I've seen too many dudes with skinned hands that previously were spouting the "they make my hands sweat" line. I wear them even in 110*+ heat, it's fine. What's even better is the guy who got a finger degloved by getting his wedding ring caught in a spoke during a criterium crash. Don't wear jewelry, either. You may only be doing 40 - 50 MPH compared to 150 on your motorcycle, but crashing at 40 MPH in nothing but spandex and a helmet is no joke.

Dude, if you are getting bored on road rides you're not doing it right. If you're getting bored with road riding in Zion, UT, something may actually be wrong with you.

Konas are good, affordable, cost effective bikes. I wouldn't mind getting one for crits and fucking about. Going down mountain roads in underwear and a helmet on contact patches the size of dimes is as much fun as you can have without being at the racetrack, do it. The main thing is to never go faster than you can ascertain the condition of the road where your wheels are tracking, hitting unseen gravel and rocks in corners is probably how the majority of cyclists get killed or maimed in the mountains.

 

I've got a 58cm specialized Allez Elite that I am selling. I think it is a 2005 model.

John

 

here are the new 29ers training for ORAMM and doing the Chainbuster endurance series Trek SuperFly AL Pro

 

It has more to do with sweat turning your chamois into sandpaper. With that said it's got to be a century on a warm day for me to need it. Boudreaux's comes in individual servings so you can carry it with you just in case instead of spackling that crap on at the beginning of the day.