EX250/250R Racing Everything you need to know

There you go. New thread Created. Shortly I'll summarize all new riders really need to know. But that's gonna be alot of typing..

 

Ok here we go....

Suspension------- Forks Can be ran with just spring and work fine. I run Race-Tech Emulators with 15w oil

Shocks------ Known aftermarket shocks are.... Ohlins, Penske and Elka. LE engineering can take your stock shock and put a remote resvoire (sp) on it and give you comp and rebound adjustment for about $250. Other thing that I have done is take a 06-07 GSXR Stock shock and put that on. Only thing needed for that is about 40mm longer stud bolts and washers to space out the dog bones.

Engine.... Well......... Nothing

Go fast parts-- The Sportisi Moto TIS is the way to go to run up front. No way around it, and if there is.. It's illegal.

Jetting...... Dynojet makes a good kit, as does Factory Pro. I now run the Sportisi Moto Jet kit also. I could never get the Factory Pro kit dialled in right.

Exhaust----- Area P puts out the most HP when tuned consistantly and for the best price. But M4 I would say is 2nd. Well ok maybe that $800 dual pipe that's on the west coast puts out more. Don't know anything about that one though.

Airfilter.... Stock for most HP. Although K&N makes one.

Tires....... Bridgestone makes the BT-003RS which is an awsome tire and won the GNF last year. Can be ran in a 110 or 120 front and a 140 rear is best. They also make the BT-090 but those are fazing out and will be a good lasting mid-pack rider's tire which is the same for the BT-016, alot of grip but only made in the 150 rear which will buckle at heavy lean angle. Best part about Bridgestones? If you are in the Mid-Central/ SE region.... Stickboy, knows all there is to know and will give you the shirt off his back, and hell even attempt to mount a Competitors tire when you are in a bind..

Michelin also makes good tires to run on it. Tires ran are Power One, Power Race and Pilot power. Only draw back is they only make a 150 rear aswell. But do not buckle as bad as the B-stones.

Others..... Not sure never ran em.

Clipons- Woodcraft makes the best ones I've found, but I think Sportisi Moto makes some also.

Rearsets.... Woodcraft again is the brand of choice, only problem with the Woodcraft ones that I have found is that they are actually TOO good. The frames on the 2nd gens are made of cheap metal and will strip out and then you'll be through bolting.

Bodywork...... Amourbodies, Shark Skinz, and Attack are the front runners. Although Hotbodies will get you by but only good for 1 to mayyyyyybe 2 crashes before you are replacing it. I run Amourbodies and have been pleased with everything, fit and finish. Shark Skinz from what I have seen is why they are the industry's best body work. Thick, flexible and crash well. As far as bodywork goes, you get what you pay for. Once you've bought a couple sets of HB you'll finally learn and get the good ones.

Fuel...... Some run VP U4.2 and U4.4.. XXX offers contingency for our class and makes and excellent fuel.



I'm sure I'm missing some things but others will chime in I'm sure.

Disclamer...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All this info is based on the 2nd gen, which is the only thing I have expericence with and well.......... Is the bikes winning and running in the front.

 

Wow, you just saved the beeb 4831 posts.

I sure do miss that thread.

 

:up:

I'm a little bias on some of the things but that's all I've had experience with. Others will chime in their knowledge

 

On the damaged rearset mounts, we cut the hollow stock stuff off and replace w/ a solid plate when it gets badly damaged. Might not be WERA legal though.

And the M4 pipe is better than the AP. IMHO

 

Why is 1 IC allowed, but others are not?

 

Read the rules, superstock legal but no engine mods, we REALLY do NOT need to piss off Sean again. Thrak, we have had this discussion and this is NOT the place to get into it. You want to talk, PM me or call, my number is out there...

 

Ok thanks.

 

Dustin, there were some good pics of steering damper mounting on the old thread that would be a useful addition here. Plus the fact that all you need is a gixxer stocker for cheap off of fleabay.
Thanks for cranking this up!:up:

 

Can somebody measure the space between the forks for me on the new gen?
Right where the axle is, the faces that the wheel spacers butt against. I need inner fork face to inner fork face.


Also, anybody have the info/measurements for putting the rear new gen wheel on an old gen?

Thanks

 

^ Check with backbone... I think they have done it.

 

Who offers the spacer to take the place of the speedo drive like Carry Andrew has in RRW?

 

Ask OldSlow or Kurt

 

Wiring Diagram for 1st gen. Thanks again Kesler:up: Helped me tremendously.
PLease note that ignition harness changed over those years, the colors also changed. Different years will work, you just have to sort the wires.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Electrical_&_Lighting

 

I think they just milled down an extra wheel spacer to the right size, not sure anyone is selling them.

 

BTW, I need 2 front wheel spacers, if anyone has some they would like to sell?

 

Lots of people on the left coast run Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa 120/150...

 

I think you can get them from Advanced Kawasaki. I just gutted my speedo drive.

I mostly see Power Ones.