need info on what to get and what to do to the wheel for every thing to work and be safe. hurd f2 fits any help would be appreciated
You can go here to see how I put a 1989 GSXR 1100 4.5" wheel on my FZR. I used the entire brake system (rotor, caliper, bracket, torque arm), and it works great. It is a bit of a PITA to swap the wheels since I didn't make the rotor side spacer captive, that's coming up next. I also went to a 520 kit, and had to mount the CS sprocket backwards to make up for the rear sprocket offset. PM me if you want any explanation for the pics. The pics are huge, but I'm too lazy and apathetic to care about that.
Have a Metacheck(SP) swingarm with a GSXF600 Rim on it . They still make them for Fizzy's . Little expensive though, around 800 . This came with the bike , so not sure of what is needed . I might be interested in selling it. Bike is starting to drop 3rd gear , and I am not smart enough to do the work myself Its my Track Day tool, best I've run is 1:49 @ Mid Ohio , 1;13 @ Beaver Run , I ain't fast , I ain't slow ( well maybe I am ) Oh BTW hi all
Would that be the 4" wheel? I assume that a 4.5 would work, so that you can run 160's, but any 17" wheel is good for track rubber.
4.5, Ive run a 160 on it . Currently has a 150 Pilot Power , like that better, quicker turn in Cheers
From fzrarchives.com Can I change the rear wheel to a 17 incher? Sure you can, but note that the only real advantage to installing a 17" wheel is to take advantage of the latest generation of racing rubber. This info is geared towards the 400, but the 600 uses the same dimension wheel and spacers. Contributed by Chris Eklund: "I currently run Honda CBR600F2 (17x4.50) and F3 (17x5.00) rear wheels on my race bike. My street project FZR600 street fighter will be using a GSXR (17x4.50) rear wheel. To use the F2/F3 wheels, this is what I had done. Any competent machinist could do this, or they may have a better idea. This is how my guy did it: First thing is I took Lester a stock wheel complete with spacers, axle, cush drive, brake arm, etc., a spare 400 box-section swing arm and a complete F2 rear wheel. This way he could measure everything from the stock wheel. He removed the sprocket studs from the cush drive. (Note: Honda uses locking agent that is _tough_! Be sure to heat the studs when you pull them.) The outer bearing surface was machined down. This eliminated the rubber bearing seal, so a single sided waterproof sealed bearing of the Honda OEM size was used. The sprocket surface was also machined to move the sprocket inward. (Note: If you have '90 Deltabox swing arm, the studs need to be shortened and the nuts ground down to clear the swing arm. I'm not sure if this step is necessary on a '88-89 box section arm since they have more clearance. I ground about 2-3mm off the nuts, which was basically the locking portion of it, so I now have mine safety wired. Makes rear sprocket changes time consuming, but it won't come off and I usually know what gearing I'm going to run at what track beforehand. If you can get some low profile lock nuts, that would work well. Ideally, I'd have a spare cush drive modified. New wheel spacers were machined from steel and have a sleeve for adapting the small FZR axle to the larger F2 bearing. This way the spacers are captive and won't fall out. (Note: Another option is to use the F2/F3 axle. The stock F2 axle will fit in the '90 swing arm. All you'd have to do is drill out the holes in the v-blocks. The F2/F3 axle is about 2mm larger and hollow. For the brake, Honda uses a floating caliper mounting system as opposed to the Yamaha's fixed caliper. I use a Hurricane 2-piston caliper, but plan to use a F2 single piston one soon. A CR125/250/500 rear caliper might be another option. I've seen a CR125 caliper used on an F2 rim on Simon Forder's EX500. The large hub on the F2/F3 wheels won't allow an opposed piston caliper go all the way over the rotor. The GSXR wheel can be used with the FZR600 hanger and stock 400/600 caliper or you could get the GSXR rotor turned down the same diameter as the stock 400 rotor. I think the F2/F3 wheels are lighter than the GSXR, but I can't guarantee that. The GSXR wheel requires the same type of work, but is simpler for a few reasons. The cush drive uses bolts to secure the sprocket so when you remove the sprocket, the bolts fall out, unlike the studs on the Honda. These bolts are of a smaller diameter than the Honda studs and already uses low profile locking nuts. And as I mentioned above, the brake situation is easier to deal with. Plus it's a three-spoke wheel and matches the stock front wheel. GSXR rims may be getting hard to find since they were only used on '88-89 GSXR750's and '89 GSXR1100's. Here are GSXR dimensions and directions from Nolan Ballew: "Remove .345 from sprocket carrier where sprocket sits. Remove .305 from sprocket carrier where stock bearing seal sits. Replace bearing with sealed bearing type but same size. On sprocket side use stock spacer plus 25mm O.D. 17mm I.D. by 1.73 inch spacer that slips into carrier. Use stock brake arm and .510 spacer with 17mm I.D./ O.D. of this spacer is non critical. this spacer goes between brake arm and wheel bearing like stock one. The stock Suzuki disc can be cut down to the same O.D. and width as 400. The O.D. with have cut thru holes or you can make a disc. The stock disc cannot be adapted. Stock caliper needs bottom left surface filed down about .025 to provide clearance for larger hub of GSX-R-r wheel. A 600fzr caliper bracket can be used with the stock Suzuki disc but then you cannot easily switch from a stock wheel to the Suzuki wheel if you have 18 inch rains on stock wheels (Bridgestone). I don't have a number for the 600 caliper bracket but once the other side is done the measurement should not be too difficult." TZ250 rims have been used and apparently only require new spacers being made (according to Motorcyclist article 9/90.) TZ rims wider than 5.00 may require moving the chain out to clear the tire. As recommended by Sam Flemming of the Army of Darkness, Wheels without cush drives should be avoided (i.e. older Performance Machine wheels.) The shock of each power pulse will take it's toll on the 400's not too terribly tough transmission and clutch.
