2008 R6.. bike runs pretty well, but have wondered what to do with "ram air correction". Was on the dyno friday, and we set it to "4" after pulls at "2" and there was no difference. Naturally there is no ram air affect on the dyno though. how do you know when to change that setting ? was at Road america and it seemed a little slower compared to some other ss bikes. But this machine has won some club stuff at Daytona, which has higher top speeds set at '2'
I am not familiar with the YEC ECU or its software but I have a few questions for you which might be able to help me help you. Does the YEC support any sort of data logging Is there any open ports that would allow a 0 to 5 volt analog signal to be input that could be logged If the answer to both of those questions is yes then what I would do is to set the YEC to log a few laps around a track like RA and monitor the vehicle speed, engine RPM, TPS, MAP, and your 0 to 5 volt analog input. That input would be the reference wire from a wideband O2 controller of your choice (I like and tune with PLX or innovate). When you look at the logs you will be able to see what the multiplier is doing to the fuel and how it affects overall speed (aka HP) from there you can adjust it and optimize it for a particular track. If for example you can log but there is no input port for a 0 to 5 volt signal then you can still log the factory sensors and see what is giving you an increase in speed. It might still be a good idea to get some sort of wideband display on the bike though to make sure you are not jeopardizing the engine, you just wouldn't be able to log it. If neither option is possible with the YEC box then you can go to a dyno that has ram air where you can adjust the setting based on suggested wind speed. Another option is to put a camera on the speedo and play around as mentioned above. Hopefully I have given you some info to go off of. I'm sure some more knowledgeable people with experience using the YEC system will chime in shortly.
I have experimented with that feature at Daytona. There is some function, but not much difference. If you put a pressure sensor in the airbox and log data for an R6, the pressure goes from atmospheric (14.7psi, 1 bar) to 1.07 bar avg or something like that. It's not as much as you might think because the intake is providing vacuum to compensate. Therefore the correction on the mapping has little effect. Just my experience with it. I think if you had better ducting to and inside the airbox, more volume, and better sealing, you might get more pressure inside and it might be useful.
I've read the same a few places that the "ram air effect" of these bikes isn't that much of an affect as we'd like to think it is.
My guess is that without ram air you would see a negative pressure in the airbox. So although the numbers Rick mentioned aren't much above ambient at least they are staying positive.
RM sums it up with some good data. Minor fine tuning adjustment when you have the right data and an engine that is strong enough to pull it. Things with bigger modified motors that can ease past 150 and closer to 200 it can be important. Most modern FI systems already are setup to compensate for this (why did the atm. sensor move on the R6 in 08??? ). On the R6 this could useful for a over the top superbike build, maybe, at the right tracks. But we are splitting hairs here, of course cause it is racing. In terms of lap times though... Not so much. Just feel good for the engineers.
i do remember on 08-up an air pressure sensor getting moved up into the ram air tunnel and was no longer in the air box .. it did seem a bit odd it would be up there and not in the area you would assume the pressure builds, but figured with the other good changes that year there had to be a reason it is up in front of the bike now. and as Rick stated, the vacuum pulled kind of offsets and psi build up. no wonder it didn't seem to make a lot of difference when i ran it at "0" or for last few years at "2" .. it didn't seem too anyway. and thanks guys
Motorcycle ram air intakes don't really "build pressure" in a significant way.. "ram air" as we have it really is just a more-efficient intake tract; it simply allows the airbox to remain at (slightly above, really, so there is some ram effect) atmospheric pressure instead of being pulled significantly below atmospheric by the engine. Basically it lets the airbox fill up faster than the engine can empty it. True "ram air" actually can act a lot like a turbocharger, but it involves a significantly longer and carefully contoured intake tract, and supersonic air speeds. With our bikes, the air literally piles up and out of the front of the hole, and ends up acting like a plug that the incoming air simply diverts around. The incoming air pushes back on the plug, keeping the airbox full (the biggest benefit) and applying slight pressure onto it (thus the 1.07 atm reading), but you're not gonna see any major boost levels. Picture a funnel, where you're pouring water into it faster than water is coming out the bottom.. it's not gonna push water out the bottom significantly faster, it's just gonna overflow. A 600cc motor spinning at 15,000 rpm sucks 4500 L per minute of air through the intake in theoretical optimal conditions. 4500 L/min through a 4-square-inch hole translates to an airspeed of about 65mph.. so as long as your dyno can blow air at the hole at around 70mph, you'll see as much of a ram-air effect on the dyno as you will on the track.
We used a blower fan on ours with a tube to direct flow directly into the ram air on Saturday. I'm guessing air speed of 45mph? Made about .2 difference in AF ratio readings.
The bazzaz product rep told me their "ram air" feed was good for .5 leaner reading on the a/f mixture. http://www.bazzaz.net/index.php/principia-dynamometer And I dont think its much of an issue until under 150mph anyway.
Versus stagnant air, I totally believe it. The "ram" we have definitely does help performance compared to a "standard" intake that's hidden below and behind things.. it's just so often mistaken for a positive-pressure charging effect, when it's not.
Stop talk'in nonsense... Like somee darn eXhaust inn't wirth at leaastt 15 hourse-pouwer. Giv'en yu'd paid so muuch for'n it. cue deliverance muskic... No offence intended to anyone. For real. Math.. totally a marketing buzz kill.
There's a youtube video online of some kids blowing a leaf blower into the intake tract of a Civic. Interestingly it actually made a small bit of improvement (138hp --> 148hp). Made even more when they sprayed some nitrous into the leaf blower's air intake lol.
