Which AR 15 type rifle?

Back then the Army specified it HAD to have a manual bolt assist. Regardless whether it was needed.

I have a 74 slick side SP1 I bought back in 78. Many countless rounds thru it since then. Its NEVER had a malfunction to date.

 

Don't know if you posted that before I made an edit or two but, yeah, I've never had an issue with crud for lack of an assist.

 

that's kinda what I had in mind. I can't say that I"ve ever used mine just seems odd to look at a slick side upper and not have it there. like no kick starter on a dirt bike.

 

Yes but I could have just as easily pushed the bolt forward using my finger through the ejection port. I was coyote hunting and [long story made short] needed to clear a malfunction which involved riding the bolt forward gently to reduce noise. When you do this, the bolt will not go into battery all the way. But again, this can be done with your finger, bolt forward assist is not necessary.

 

I've received a couple of messages about triggers, but only one person has grabbed one so far. It's a pretty decent deal. If you're interested, let me know.

 

Make that 2! Thank you again Chris!!! Killer hook-up for anyone needing a trigger group.

 

I've practiced the quiet release of the bolt on my AR many times. The only time(s) it needed a last push was when the gun was running dry and, like you said, a little push with a finger...

 

Do you think you'd be more likely to use it every time if you were in battle and your life depended on it?

 

If I'm in battle, I won't be concerned about how much noise my action makes when it slams into battery. I also won't be running full-auto with 50,000 rounds at my disposal.

Considering the number of rounds through my AR and frequency with which they've been fired, like it's been said, never had a need for it.

Besides, I'm not a ground-pounder. If I have to go CQB, I fucked up anyway and will likely succumb to overwhelming numbers. It won't be the gun's fault.

To try and read more into your question, if I'm having an issue, I'm gonna have to address it. The most likely scenario I can imagine is that my gun is dry and I need to get it wet. Re-charging isn't gonna cure it and having to hit an assist is just gonna make me sling it for something else on my shoulder until I can address it properly. If I have to piss, spit or shit on it cuz I'm in the field, it's still quicker to grab a sidearm or back-up long gun. I can rack and accurately fire my bolt-gun just as quickly as it would take to slam an assist considering the time it would take to reacquire my sight picture, or it's the 11rd 12g pump. The only detriment with either is magazine capacity.

 

PM sent, I'm in the market!

 

In have my Timney installed (thanks Hollywoood!) haven't had a chance to actually shoot with it yet, but I have it set so something in the <2 lb range, and with the over-travel adjustment, it feels like a proper target trigger should, and withstood the rubber mallet test for safety.

The deal is quite good, even with shipping cheaper than the best deal I've seen on the internet. The timing was perfect for me, I was just getting ready to "pull the trigger" on one anyway.

 

Thanks man. Our Master Testers (we've got 2.5 of them) set the bolt action groups down to 8oz and SLAM the bolts to check against slam-fire conditions. Then they finish adjusting sear, trigger weight and make the final adjustment to over travel. Some pro PRS dudes shoot down in the 18oz range, but 2lbs is a great place for experienced shooters too. Keep in mind most municipalities and PSOT we tune for ship with custom 4lb triggers.

If this is your first Timney, I always encourage new owners to shoot 5 rounds through their old trigger group on a stiff bench, swap out the trigger and a fresh target, and send 5 more. See if there's a difference in the grouping.

Enjoy!

 

Thanks Chris, I'm ordering one for my PRS gun.

 

I have a spread sheet to build a 3.1 LBS AR-15 but haven't got around to ordering all of the parts yet. It's about $2400

 

All knowing beeb.

I picked up a S&W M&P 15 sport and a S&W M&P 15-22 sport recently. I slapped a Truglow red dot on the 15-22 and went plinking at the local indoor range. I had a red dot on a GSG 5-22 (some cheap off brand) and always had to adjust elevation every time I moved the target. We are not talking huge gaps, 15 feet to 30 feet. I figured it was because it was a cheap POS red dot. I am having the same issues with the new (more expensive) Truglow. Is this common with red dots?

 

No its not common with a good red dot (RDS). But, thats VERY common with low end red dot like any Truglow (and scopes). I have tons of good optics from Nikon, Leupold, Weaver, Primary Arms, Vortex, etc. All are still going and working fine. I've gotten exactly 2 cheap ones over the yrs (scope and RDS). BOTH never worked right, and ended up throwing both away.

Ironically, I have a bud I built an 11.5" AR for. He cheaped out twice also, and BOTH never worked right.One was really recently.

For a decent very well thought of, low-priced RDS, get a Primary Arms. Thats the lowest end for decent RDS (also the general consensus at AR15.com fwiw).

Next level up, is the Vortex RDSs or the best Primary Arms.

The end.

 

I appreciate the feedback and I will check those out.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optic...&qid=1483477972&sr=1-9&keywords=vortex+optics Opinions?

 

You are shooting a rifle at short range with a sight that is approx. 2.5" over bore. Imagine a straight line from your sight to target and another straight line from your bore to target. These two lines meet where the sight is zeroed (point of aim and point of impact POA, POI) If you zeroed at a really short distance, then moved your target, then yes you will see a shift in your POI. Make sense? How much difference in POI? And is it consistent?

 

If you zeroed at say 100 yards, then go shoot indoor at short range, you will see less POI shift by moving the target 15 or 30 feet. You will hit lower than your POA, but changing target distance won't change POI as dramatic as if you zeroed at a really short distance. Type of sight is irrelevant. It's not the red dots fault, it's just how it works. By the way, everytime you adjusted your red dot, you just zeroed it for that distance and those short distances are going to cause this to happen. So get it sighted in at 50 or 100 yds and this problem will go away.