What's causing my Pirelli SC2 tire wear pattern issue?

I'm not saying this is specifically your problem. I'm saying it isn't helping. You might also have another issue, but you won't know until you have a solid control. Everyone else who is telling you to click clickers and change x, y and z might know a lot more about Pirelli tires and suspension than I do.

 

I understood. My reply was specifically in regards to the power source for my tire warmers. For the other feedback about suspension, rebound setting, proper tire sizing and throttle application, I've captured notes for my next actions. Appreciate the input!

 

I think that is unlikely for most of those posting that advice.

 

We all know Jimmy & Joey BBS taught you everything you know

 

Hey Jim, how's things up there ? You going to be doing any racing this year ?

 

In my experience the pencil ones work well when benchmarked.
That being said my trusty analog motion pro that gets treated like a piece of jewelery showed itself to be off by 10lbs (low) this weekend. This is a unit I benchmark a couple times a year. My rear tire was over 39 psi... and I felt wheelspin coming out of some corners and saw the tach spin up a couple times like the clutch was slipping. Thankfully it takes a few sessions for me to warmup and push the pace. Got an email off to MP to see whats up.

 

Bring three gauges or at least two. Benchmark against each other every morning at the track. If any of them goes off like the 10lb example above, you will know it before it becomes a problem. They don't have to be expensive gauges, as cheap works fine for this. One of mine reads 1.5lb high and I put a label on it as such, but it still works fine as a reference to the other two after I factor that in. Even doing this, it doesn't hurt to benchmark against one from the tire vendor as well a couple times a year as well. My cheap 10 year old dial gauge seems to be as accurate as my MP digital so as the previous poster found out, the price to accuracy ratio can vary wildly.

 

I worked at an auto tire shop for 5 years. Everyone carried pencil gauges in their pocket. Out of the box, half would read 2+psi off and would get tossed. Then they'd last at most 2 weeks before reading low. The shop master gauge was also a pencil gauge - nicer and more expensive. It even had a little case. It was used maybe twice a year and stored in the office away from everyone, so we could mostly trust it. Either would be a terrible choice for track use.

A digital gauge with a zero button will give the most repeatable results. Verify its accuracy occasionally, treat it well, and use it.

 

Quick note on the flipping: Pirelli SCs are a no go. If you want a flippable tire, Dunlop Ntechs will let you flip the rear. AFAIK that’s the only slick you can flip


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Yeah your wrong. You can flip Pirelli SC tires.



and to the other comments above instead of buying three gauges and using a mathematical equation you could just have your gauge checked for accuracy and adjust your pressures accordingly

 

you need to start rolling on sooner. way sooner. if your waiting 15-20ft to roll it on a 300 will walk away

 

I really hope to, Dean and I mopped up the VRRA endurace in 2019, he build a weapon of a 1987 ow. Can really afford the big bikes anymore, and i cant keep giving the young guys fits.

Things are ok, you managing?

 

Okay. This piece of advice contradicts what another person wrote about straightening out turns 2 and 9 before getting on the gas (hard or harder). I love getting on the throttle early and the slicks absolutely allow me to do so. So, on the gas as early as possible or not? I don't see me squaring off turns 2 and 9 to straighten up and then get on the gas. I don't pin the throttle but I did roll on it hard when I learned nothing bad would happen.

 

Not on the throttle hard....on the throttle sooner.

As in add throttle as you take away lean angle.

Trail the brakes to he apex, and as soon as your finger's off the brake....gently add and continue to add throttle as you look to the exit.

This is what YCRS teaches.

 

Yes this, but not so much throttle that it starts spinning the rear and pushing you out wide, which is easy to do in those two corners. Maybe if you need ultimate drive to set up a pass, but not otherwise. Just a tiny bit less throttle than that will give you 97% of the drive with a lot less tire wear. Opening radius corners are a bit different than your normal corners in this regard. Turn 5/6 at Pitt is also like this.

 

"To he apex" PHUCK I hate my fat fingers!

@2blueYam I'm just talkin' corner technique in general, not really specific to any specific turn.

Every corner has it's subtle nuances. That's what draws us all to them...to get that one corner we struggle with perfect, then string together all the corners together optimally for our abilities to get that fastest lap.

 

Wow, aggressive much?

On what are you basing your comment? Are you saying you did it and survived to tell the tale? Did a friend of yours or suspension tuner tell you it was ok?

I’ve run SCs for a few years and nowhere in Pirelli literature have I seen them stating they designed their tire to be flipped. If they have, please show me because I can’t find it. Honestly. Though I did find this (admittedly it is from another forum and an old post, but it is more “official” than anything I can find supporting your claim)




That is a big reason I switched to the Ntec; it is actually designed to be flipped. If you can show me a Pirelli designed to be flipped I’d be happy to switch back; I prefer those tires anyway.

I’m sure you CAN flip the tire. I’ve mounted one or two backwards on accident before. My point is that you shouldn’t unless the manufacturer says they designed it that way.


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Trying to recall, but if I was pushing wide, it was very subtle. I ride dirt bikes and throttle steer/skid steer happen at speed. Plus, I've raced my ohvale on slicks in the wet.

Just mentioning. I'm trying to apply your advice to what I know.

The long sweeping turn 2 at Summit Point probably feels like I could be. But turn 9, no, it would be easy to tell in that turn. A lot of riders exit towards the middle and track to the outside berm. I time it so just as they touch the apex, I square off the corner, roll on throttle (aggressively) and stay near the inside corner exit area, tracking out toward the middle only as much as the lead bike gives me room.

Still, this gives me food for thought. I'll have to pay attention to what my rear tire is doing next time. Won't be the first time I discovered something different happening than what I think. Again, the SC2s are very confident-inspiring. I'm talking new-found mojo here. Passing riders on corner exit is much more 'relaxing' than passing at corner entry. Or just being able to keep a bike close enough on corner exit to have opportunity for a late-braking pass at the next corner is NICE.

 

Yeah we're good, had a busy summer last year in the shop and it carried over into this winter. We finally had a decent winter for snow for a change so got some sled work. No racing for me, can't even get across the border, your country's even more nuts about it than mine. Going to be a grandfather for the first time soon, oldest is due early May.

 

Turn 2 at summit you should be WFO and clicking a gear, the bike can/will spin up a little and you might run a tad wide, but if you apex 1 properly you will stay tight up through 2. Turn 9 is fast, you should not be holding it tight against the curbing and squaring it up to make a pass, especially on a 600. If the other riders in your group are leaving you with that option then you need to be carrying more entry speed and rolling the throttle on sooner. That will both clean up your tire wear and give you plenty of room to make a move before the bridge.