OK, I will just say it right now to get this out of the way. I am old, not at the level of some on the beeb, don't see that good and need every advantage I can get to keep from blowing holes in stuff and not having the welds look shitty on low amperage thin stuff. Does anyone have an Optrel Crystal 2.0 and if so are they worth the additional $ for the extra bit of clarity over other top line helmets?
I'm in the same boat as you. Eyes aren't what they used to be. What I do to compensate is use a lot of additional light (double LEDs on a stand) and pre-heat the metal just prior to welding. Most of my stuff is "farmer" welds so pretty isn't a requirement. I do think a better auto darkening helmet would help. Curious what the Beeb has to say.
I believe Britt will have your answers. I think I remember him using a magnifier lens and yes, of course an auto darkening helmet, which is the only way to go.
That is a nice helmet, and has great reviews. If you don’t mind the price, get it. Nothing wrong with nice gear in a hobbyist’s shop. The amount of welding I do says Harbor Freight helmet and reading glasses...and I do that. But, I also a have Miller Digital Elite, and magnified inserts... not because I needed, because I wanted.
Ya, I already use a magnifier. The helmet I have is a Jackson Insight, which as far as I can tell is an OK helmet but it only goes down to a #9 shade. That is dark enough that when I am trying to TIG at low amps I have trouble seeing what the puddle is doing. I am sure that I would be OK with what I have if I had enough experience that I had a feel for what was going on. Since I don't I am trying to compensate with superior technology. That is the problem. I mind the price. Maybe I should start a Gofundme page.
The reviews are very good. Just get it. Unless it keeps food off the table, or causes a divorce. But, neither of those are necessarily bad, so get it now.
I've come to realise that the protective shield laid ahead of the darkening glass can look clean, but isn't... Replacing it can make a hell of a difference. Bought a shit load on Babyzone last time. Also tried the magnifier, nice not having to poke your glasses under the helmet.
This quaranting is making my mind go to mush. My first thought was, why on earth would someone want to weld their helmet?
Having just returned from a paid vacation @BannedCamp...all I can add is I have never personally used one, the clear shield looks to me like it would be easily scratched..and not cheap to replace. For the last 20+yrs I have used the same 3 old, SpeedGlas 9002x ..there are a couple others for guests in the shop a Miller Digital Elite, and another Big Window Lincoln something or other. Autohelmets RULE unless you are doing Union PipeLine work then you have to use a nasty used scrubby POS or a FknUgly Pancake FlatFace Custom, otherwise you'll be laughed off the jobsite. Edit: It was that ESAB Sentinel that has the easily scratched outside lens.. Another consideration for me anyway is WEIGHT: 9002x is 1.04lbs Optrel is 1.72lbs ESAB is a Boat Anchor.
I farm weld like Jack and all stick welding, went to a TSC auto darkening helmet and now I can see what I am working on and love it. I do have a 110 Stick welder for thin stuff that helps with not blowing through metal. About 4 out 10 welds when I get the settings correct it looks like I almost know what I am doing.
For me the weight and potential damage to the clear shield is not as big of a deal as better vision and not having to set up lights to shine on the piece I am working on just to see. The one I have now works more than good enough for doing barbaric processes like MIG or stick. It is just when I am down around 50 amps or lower that I can not see. But right now the chance of me being unemployed in the fairly near future is about 50/50 and I probably shouldn't be dropping almost $500 on a new helmet. But I did look around and if you want to get a fresh cool look they make pancake's that will take an autofilter and a cheater.
As mentioned above, if you are going down to 30-40 amps and below, yeah, a few of those autodarkening helmets won't adjust down to that level. Sometimes a good old fashion shade 8 with a cheater lens will do better. With the thin stuff, shit always looks bad until you really get the amps dialed in. 2 amps either direction can make or break you when welding 20-22g. Any gap and you have to change your technique or you blow holes. Perfect fit up and it's all about the amps and moving. Trying to bridge a gap and you are weaving on very thin metal. That's fun... not.
I've been using a 3M SpeedGlas 9100X since they came out. It's been the best helmet for me. Does really well at low amps stainless and titanium. and can switch shades and adjust quickly for thick aluminum. My best friend uses an Optrel and TBH they're just OK for the amount of lens time i've used it for. They feel kinda bulky and heavy,. However, the viewing port is relatively nice. I've used a few Miller Elites and Lincoln helmets as well they're decent for the money. For low amperage stuff Im a big fan of the 2% Lanthanated tungsten. I love that tungsten.. It's become my go to for most things to be honest. I can weld at 180 amps for hours on aluminum, then sharpen it, drop down to 35-40 amps, toss my bigger gas lens on and weld up some thin wall stainless.
