Actually I am kinda proud that I am the starter of this thread and the fact that I am kinda inculpable. I'd like to go to the track and put some names to faces and say hello. Hit me up if you go.
I tried to focus on the R6 only but the SV keeps calling me. I can't think of anything else I'd like to do to this one that I have not done or in the process of doing. Expect maybe..... lap timer tach combination, quick shifter, slipper clutch.... etc.... LOL
I am actually curious; what is wrong with Chris' technique of measuring that gasket? I saw one person suggest measuring in a spot that doesn't get crushed, but from the photo (and only from the photo, I have only a generic idea of what an SV head gasket looks like) it doesn't appear that he's measuring the aforementioned "raised" section (which is clearly visible in the foreground). Likewise, also genuinely curious.. how does one go about accurately measuring installed thickness? Best method I can think of would be to measure head face <-> some fixed point on top of head, cylinder face <-> some fixed point on the cases, and then install and torque it all up and measure those two fixed points, then do a little arithmetic to find out what the difference is.. but that idea sets off a whole slew of alarms in my head because of the bazillion different ways to introduce error into that measurement. I suppose you could torque + crush it down, then remove it and measure it once crushed, but that disregards the possibility for elastic compression.
In the picture I posted I am measuring the sealant bumps (which get mostly crushed away once installed). But that is the thickness of a new head gasket which is what I thought the question was.
My guess (cause I'm wrong apparently) is you would get the deck height of your piston. Then do a squish measurement. Minus the deck height from the squish and that is the thickness of the head gasket.
Measuring the flat areas of the gasket will give you a decent idea of what the compressed thickness is, say if it measures .030" with calipers then it will be more like .027" installed. I'm just giving an example so don't take any numbers as gospel. Personally, on SV's I install the base gasket and cylinders, and clamp down the cylinders via the studs, with spacers. Then I take a dial type depth gauge and find piston TDC. Then measure the depth of the piston below deck (no head gasket) at 4 places, and average the reading. Add the thickness of the head gasket you are using, and presto, that's the squish. Now, there are other ways to do it that are just as correct. Solder, turbine blade wax, etc. What is important is that you pick a method, and stick with that method, because different squish numbers mean different things, depending how it was derived. Then as you rebuild the engine over time you know what you have, how you measured it, and can compare it to what you are seeing on the piston/head and make any needed changes.
I did get the information I needed from the guys that posted to this thread so thanks a million. I also had a fun time reading the other stuff as well. Whenever I have questions about most things people here don't mind sharing what they know. That is what is so great about this place. I'll let you guys know how it works out. On a side note, I have been considering a late model SV to set up as my "A" bike but I'm thinking the 2002 would suffice.
If late model you mean <=2006 then go for it. If by late model you mean >=2007 then skip it. the dual plug heads on the 2007 make less power than the single spark heads of the 2003-2006.
Good to know. I think I'll be more than happy with my 2002. I'm gonna spend some time getting it set up correctly. I have a 2006 GSXR front end and rear rim that I converted. I know that a lot of people don't like that but I did it because I could. LOL
