You haven’t seen my wife drive. Worst possible. Gas is like on off switch, then will ride the brakes with light pressure, barely stopping but keeps them on long enough to get them hot as hell, then brakes like she’s pulled the chute on a top fuel car. She warped a set of 14 (maybe 13.5”) rotors on her new Audi Q7 in 11k Miles. She’s one of the few people that put them on that actually NEED drilled/ slotted rotors.
The ‘05-‘06 1/2T got drum rear brakes, unlike the ‘99-‘04 which had 4-wheel disc. My ‘06 has the “handling package”, which included oversized front rotors and PBR calipers, but, still rear drums. GM cheaped out on these two years of truck.
I have an ex- that uses brakes like an on/off switch, too. I put slotted/drilled/cryo rotors and ceramic pads on her car and they were warped in 10K miles. The next round I did the Bosch lifetime rotors and ceramic pads and she trashed those, in short order. The last round I did an exchange on the rotors and tried less aggressive, organic pads. The pads put off a shitload of dust, but, the rotors are surviving.
Rotors and pads for that Audi are not cheap. Work damn good for a heavy suv which they should as they are big as f$ck. We shall see how these do. Only been on a few k.
I know someone very high up for one of the largest oem brake pad mfg. he always says it’s great when the customer tells you... you’ve met the cost targets, etc but those pads are too good. They do count on x amount of aftermarket sales at dealerships for wear items.
I find some of these comments amusing. "Well I've put X amount of miles on my brakes with no problems, so you shouldn't need this, or you should do this...." Well you also might live in the flattest part of Nebraska and drive like a grandma, while the other guy lives in the mountains of Tennessee.
Warpage is pretty rare.... Thickness variation is quit common, both are normally caused by poor driving habits and many times on trucks it is exacerbated by oversized tires and wheels. The biggest killer of rotors is drivers cooking the brakes then mashing the brake pedal to the floor once they are stopped while the rotrs are 800 degrees. Ease up on the pedal and let the vehicle creep at redlights and brake problems will dissapear. I recommend the painted wearever rotors from Advance and their Gold Pads. Thats all I use on Customer stuff and have no issues with them.
That has got to be the stupidest comment I have read on here in quite sometime.... Uneven pad material does not and cannot cause oscillating vibration concerns. That is rotor thickness variation that causes 98% of brake vibration. Warped rotors account for the other 2%.
You just described my wife. I may see if she wants to swing by road atl for a day to meet, I think I should introduce yet another 3rd party into the brake application conversation
No but a pad can “cook” onto a rotor if very hot then held there under a decent amount of pressure for a bit. There’s actually a “post max temp pressure application” test for that. My ex father in law oversaw global eng dor a large brake manufacturer that you may or may not see a lot of there stickers on every nascar. I took his comment as residual Pad material left in a local spot which causes a temporary thick spot on the rotor, not uneven pads side to side.
Oh this fucking idiot again.... https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6444 Stoptech, brembo, etc all have technical write ups about uneven pad deposits causing vibration under breaking but hey, you fucking know better right?
So at higher speed i feel the seat vibrating. I replaced the fronts about a year ago with stoptech fast n furious affliction tattoo drilled and slotted pads rotors. I’m assuming it’s my rear brakes. Do I replace just the rears or try the braking technique?
I cheaped out on the Cayenne and did StopTech rotors and pads and followed the break in EXACTLY. I was skeptical, but they are awesome. I'd say try scuffing them with a scotch bright pad and do the break in again. Cost nothing but time...
Typically if you feel it in the seat it is the rear.. 95% of the time the front will be felt in the steering wheel. Also normally high speed issues are rotor runout, either from debris between the mounting surface or the rotors actually being warped. Pretty rare though. Once again, The vast majority are thickness variation issues.
Fucking Idiot Huh? Fuck You Only a fool would beleive pad deposits would amount to enough to cause a thickness variation. Over the years I’ve handled thousands of rotors off of everything from race cars where the rotors glow bright orange to monster trucks driven up and down the mountain three times a day. Not one of them showed any sign of pad buildup on a ferrous rotor. On stainless rotors such as on Motorcycles pad buldup does happen to a small degree but normally takes care of itself and is a non issue. I’m sure you have far more experiance with brakes or anything mechanical than I do though...
Who the fuck mentioned material thickness?? Why you building a strawman to knock down?? Fact: uneven pad deposit leads to pulsing brakes. You even in your example specifically said how it happens....but you drew the wrong conclusions... Fact: I chose not to be a automotive wrench monkey to earn my living, but I build drag cars for fun...you’re a fucking parts changer so yea....if you told me rain is wet I’d double check at this point. Anything else?? Who the
