What’s a good aftermarket replacement for a 2016 Silverado. My work truck is due for brakes and the stock rotors have been warped since the very first hard stop.
Guys on GRM forum recommend Centric. I tried some on the rape van, garbage. Shit was warped in 3 months. YMMV and all that.
I bought a kit from PowerStop for my 2013 F150, the rotors are drilled/ slotted so the look cool and work like a champ. 15k miles on them so far with no complaints. PowerStop extreme Z36 kit (rotors & pads), the oems were garbage after 15-20k miles on my truck.
thanks for the reminder...i need to order some for mine. http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/pickup-brakes.353787/page-2 But lots of guys online swear by centric premium rotors and hawk pads
+1 on PowerStop, I put them on my Tundra, replaced stock warped junk. After brake in 10x better brakes than stock!
Most likely pad transfer to rotor and not warped. I don't skimp on rotors and pads because otherwise you'll be replacing them soon enough and the cost per mile is ridiculously cheap. You can get GM OE AC Delco rotors from Amazon, Rock Auto or online GM OE parts places like GMPartsDirect which are better quality than the standard aftermarket replacement stuff and cost less than dealer. Just be sure you're looking at the OE part number and not the aftermarket "advantage" or "professional" line. I've run replacement GM OE rotors on my van with Hawk LTS pads forever and the pads are great if you don't mind some dust, which I don't. On the car I went with Dba 4k slotted rotors on the front and OE rear with Hawk HPS pads replacing Raybestos rotors and Akebono Pro-Act ceramic pads that I was never really happy with since one front rotor was causing a shimmy and the pads just didn't have a lot of bite.
Most of the time what feels like a warped rotor is uneven pad material that comes from a hard stop then sitting with the pad clamped to the rotor like at a light. Go do hard stops until the brakes fade then drive for next 10 min without touching the brakes to reapply the pad material to the rotor.
I just tossed some R1Concepts pads and rotors on my Tundra, very happy with them. https://www.r1concepts.com
My wife does this all the time. She rides the brakes like crazy. Then comes to a light, etc. Comes home says the brakes are “vibrating”. Do some hard stops, etc and fixed. Cannot get her to change her driving style but oh well. She goes through brakes like mad which is going to suck on the the Q7.
I only use the Bosch rotors and ceramic pads from O’Reilly. Both have lifetime warranties, so when they act up, I just take them in and exchange them. I’m on my second set of rotors and pads from them. I don’t believe GM put enough rotor on the Silverado. It only takes rapidly slowing on the expressway to warp most rotors, these days. The manufacturers are trying to shave weight everywhere possible, including the brake systems.
Explain to me what happens when you’re on the expressway and one suddenly slows from 80mph to 30mph and the next brake application the brakes are pulsing and the steering wheel is shimmying and the truck didn’t do that prior. Explain what is happening when one puts a dial indicator to the rotor and there’s runout. What causes the runout, when chucking up a rotor in a lathe and there’s obvious, measured runout. Explain to me why a brake engineer would tell me it all comes from spec’ing too little mass for the BTU’s experienced, in the name of saving weight and money. Is he nuts?
Not on the 2500HD. My 2012 has 106k miles and I’m still on original brakes. Though, I’m due. I’ll replace with OEM.