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Trailer fender (clearance) options with new (larger) tires

Discussion in 'Tech' started by pefrey, Jun 28, 2014.

  1. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    I had 185/80/13 and installed 205/75/14. Are there easy fixes for the fender clearance issue shown?
     

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  2. ms.madman

    ms.madman Well-Known Member

    Cut it off? Maybe call it a metalhead mod?
     
  3. r6boater

    r6boater Logged out

  4. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    Is there a spacer I can put behind the fender to move it outwards? There seems to be clearance in diameter, just not width. As is, the lip of the fender might cut into the tire. Cutting rhe fender is an option but likely too much work with sloppy results being likely.
     
  5. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    Not likely, they are not mounted really well to begin with, just sheet metal screws through and into the studs. Probably not what you want to do but if you want it functional and looking good you'll need larger fenders. If you get the rounded ones you'll probably be able to keep the lights on top of the fenders.
     
  6. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    FAK. When I looked at the difference in tire diameter I thought the difference was only 1.1". Second look reveals it is actually 1.9". Probably easier to go back to 13" rims.
     
  7. GoldStarRon

    GoldStarRon Well-Known Member

    Easier to go back to the smaller rims.. but.. the larger tires are typically much better.. I just cut my fenders off... did that a couple of years ago. Seeing how cheap the new larger fenders are.. I may buy a pair and get them welded on.. maybe..

    Ron
     
  8. Fencer

    Fencer Well-Known Member

    If you are ok with the height travel as the springs flex, take a pair of pliers (flat welders will work well) and flair the lip a little to give vourself the extra clearance. I did this on a boat trailer.
     
  9. ryoung57

    ryoung57 Off his meds

    This is what I was going to suggest. Flaring the lip outward will provide plenty of clearance. Then maybe run a strip of that crap old people put on the edge of their car doors on the edge so it's blunt.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    Yesterday I removed the fenders by drilling out the mounting pop rivets and the ones holding on the marker light, and cutting the silicone between the fender and trailer with a box cutter. It took about 5 minutes per fender. Then I measured the fender. It's the same fender (dimension wise) sold by etrailer (and others) for 13-15" wheels except the one on my trailer had a 1" less length. That was quickly expanded by 1.5 inches with a simple pull.

    Today I am reinstalling 2" up. I have to add about 3" of wire to the light and remove all the silicone from the fender. I left the silicone on the side of the trailer, that will be hidden by the wheel. I will post pics when I am done.

    Thanks for the replies. I'm so glad I did not have to return the wheels.

    EDIT: I like the idea of the car door guard, I'm probably going to install that just because.

    EDIT: Etrailer fender. http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Fenders/Redline/J101733AT.html
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2014
  11. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    I was going to suggest a BFH. :D
     
  12. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    I thought about it or as Fencer suggested, a pair of pliers to flare the fender a bit. As Spitz said, they are not mounted that well. I opted to use pop-rivets to re-install since self taping screws may not hold into the aluminum studs as well as they would hold into steel. With all the vibration I figure they would eventually fail and then I'd just have the silicone holding it on.
     
  13. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    Definitely the better method for sure.
     
  14. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    Viola! The before and after.
     

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  15. pefrey

    pefrey Well-Known Member

    Well, the after anyway. I also need a new pop rivet tool. Fortunately my friends worked fine.
     

    Attached Files:

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