Toy hauler towing experience with a 1500

i own a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3l truck. It has the 6sp tranny and the oversized cooling hoses. It has the tow package on it from the factory. I would have an r6 in the th and maybe another r6 at some point in the future. There will be some mountain travel as I go from eastern PA to western PA, and summit point. I understand payload is where I want to pay attention, and that toy haulers have a heavy tongue weight. My question is, does anyone have any experience towing a toy hauler with a similar truck through some hilly/mountainous roads? If so, please tell me what toy hauler you had and if you’ve experienced any problems. Thanks.

And yes, I understand I could tow a lot more with a 2500/3500 twin turbo,twin supercharged ,blower coming out of the hood, Cummins Duramax super duty diesel with the stupid as hell smoke stack. I’m talking about a plain old 5.3l 1500.

, but seriously, I appreciate the help.

 

I towed with a 5.7 Tundra for years, I never passed a gas station. 3rd Tundra shit the bed with serious engine issues. Went across town and bought a Duramax GMC not a fucking bow tie pos Chevy. Yes there is a difference. No more problems towing, moving mountains, moving your toy hauler or moving your whole house at 70 mph on cruise and getting 11 mpg in fucking palace like comfort.

I’d say that’s a win win in today’s over rated truck life. Btw I didn’t buy the cheap trim level truck. 1/2 ton truck today is a car with a half ass bed metal bed attached.

Diesel for towing and 1/2 ton car/truck for parking lot pimping with good looking rims.

 

Typing on my phone, so will keep this brief. Towed a toyhauler with a 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3l for years. Toyhauler is a Stealth SK2112. I am in Southern California, and I hit a lot of very steep grades in the mountains. Truck did it, but it was nerve-racking. I'd have the accelerator pinned doing 45mph up some grades; the brakes did the job but made me slightly nervous. I'd estimate the total weight of everything to be somewhere between 8k - 9k lbs. Upgraded to a 2017 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.6l 2 years ago (which is apparently a piece of shit according to poster above). Truck is awesome, and towing is inordinately easier in every regard.

Depending on what you're towing, the 1500 will be absolutely fine. I could have stuck with mine, but for as much as I tow to the track, it was worth it to upgrade. I certainly didn't need the diesel, but it's a massive improvement and piece of mind I was willing to pay for. It's also nice to not have to worry about counting lbs. I can keep water in the tanks, add more bikes in if needed, and more without worrying about a thing.

Edit: I will add that the 5.3l only made me nervous in the mountains. Actually did really well everywhere else, and would have been totally good if not for some really tough grades in temps well over 100 degrees during the summer.

 

No, for practical purposes, there isn't a difference. They are corporate clones. Same engines. Same transmissions. Same frames. Most sheet metal. The interiors are styled different , but still share many parts. There may be a few items that are brand specific, but very few. And only to make you think they are different, or more upscale.

The fact you think they are different is a testament to you believing the (bad) marketing.

 

As you mentioned, payload is going to be the number one issue with any type of camping trailer, and Toy Hauler are traditionally a bit nose/tongue heavy in order to balance out a bit when there are toys loaded in the back. The basics of a tow behind...vs. a 5th wheel type hookup is that the GVW of the trailer will put approx. 13% of that weight on the tongue. So towing a toy hauler empty, it will be tongue heavy, towing loaded it may drop down to some lesser percentage of tongue weight. When I had my 34 1/2' toy hauler and the garage loaded for a weekend at the track, I was just at 10% on the tongue and had some trailer sway issues, even though I was using one of the top rated W.D. systems. I actually had to add some weight to the front of the trailer in order to get the tongue weight where it needed to be to eliminate some/most of the trailer sway....I got it up to almost 12% on the tongue.

So here is what you need to be looking at from a numbers standpoint. 1. Never exceed ANY of the truck's rated capacities....GVWR, Payload, GCVWR, RAWR, FAWR, and Tire load capacity. If your truck has P metric tires, ditch them and get a good set of "LT" tires, maybe even going with a high load capacity tire in the same size. Of all the capacities that I mentioned above...Payload is going to be the limiting number for a camping trailer. You will run out of payload capacity 99% of the time before you do any of the others. Find the sticker on the driver's side door post (usually white with yellow highlighted areas) and check to see what YOUR truck's rated payload is....sometimes called Cargo Carrying Capacity or CCC. That is the amount of weight that truck will be able to carry and was valid on the day the truck was built. If you've added anything to the truck after it was built....running boards, toolbox and tools, bed cover, etc, etc., those item's weights should be deducted from the payload sticker number. Now, it is time to calculate the amount of weight the toy hauler will put on the truck when loaded.....so you need to know what that weight is. CAT scales are your friend in this case. However, if you haven't bought a trailer yet, and it sounds like you haven't, try to find the potential trailer manufacturer's website and see if you can find the GVWR for that trailer. You can do the same deal as I mentioned above. Use the GVWR of the trailer and calculate that number times 12-13% and that will be a fairly close number for the tongue weight that it will put on the truck. The trailer will need to have a W.D. hitch system for towing the trailer and normally, those weight 75-100 lbs, so another weight to deduct from the available payload number for your truck. Next up is to add up anything and everything that will go in and on the truck.....passenger(s), extra fuel, generator, tools, etc. All of that weight will also needed to be deducted from the truck's available payload number too. So for a total, you've got tongue weight of the trailer, W.D. hitch, and everything that goes in/on the truck. When you total all of that "stuff", the number should always be less than the available payload number of the truck.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I really didn't know how much you know or don't know about doing some of the numbers, but hopefully I've helped you a bit with this info......if not, take a nap and let your eyes rest for a while!

 

https://owl.purdue.edu/owl/general_writing/academic_writing/paragraphs_and_paragraphing/index.html

 

At almost 65 years old, I'm simply not interested in "polishing" my use of the English language and writing skills. I've done OK for all these years and if you feel the urge to copy, modify, and then repost what I've written, have at it.....I've got better things to do.

Or maybe, better yet, you could offer up some valuable information about the subject that the original poster has inquired about.

 

Very good information. I appreciate it. I don’t have any experience in towing. I’d like to act like I’m the man and know everything, but I don’t. It’s not worth putting others and myself in danger to have an ego trip.

It looks as though my truck has a ccc of 1435lbs. I got that off the tire pressure sticker?. Not sure if that’s good or not for a 1500?

 

As you mentioned, payload is going to be the number one issue with any type of camping trailer, and Toy Hauler are traditionally a bit nose/tongue heavy in order to balance out a bit when there are toys loaded in the back.

The basics of a tow behind...vs. a 5th wheel type hookup is that the GVW of the trailer will put approx. 13% of that weight on the tongue. So towing a toy hauler empty, it will be tongue heavy, towing loaded it may drop down to some lesser percentage of tongue weight. When I had my 34 1/2' toy hauler and the garage loaded for a weekend at the track, I was just at 10% on the tongue and had some trailer sway issues, even though I was using one of the top rated W.D. systems. I actually had to add some weight to the front of the trailer in order to get the tongue weight where it needed to be to eliminate some/most of the trailer sway....I got it up to almost 12% on the tongue.

So here is what you need to be looking at from a numbers standpoint:

1. Never exceed ANY of the truck's rated capacities....GVWR, Payload, GCVWR, RAWR, FAWR, and Tire load capacity. If your truck has P metric tires, ditch them and get a good set of "LT" tires, maybe even going with a high load capacity tire in the same size. Of all the capacities that I mentioned above...Payload is going to be the limiting number for a camping trailer. You will run out of payload capacity 99% of the time before you do any of the others.

Find the sticker on the driver's side door post (usually white with yellow highlighted areas) and check to see what YOUR truck's rated payload is....sometimes called Cargo Carrying Capacity or CCC. That is the amount of weight that truck will be able to carry and was valid on the day the truck was built. If you've added anything to the truck after it was built....running boards, toolbox and tools, bed cover, etc, etc., those item's weights should be deducted from the payload sticker number.

Now, it is time to calculate the amount of weight the toy hauler will put on the truck when loaded.....so you need to know what that weight is. CAT scales are your friend in this case. However, if you haven't bought a trailer yet, and it sounds like you haven't, try to find the potential trailer manufacturer's website and see if you can find the GVWR for that trailer. You can do the same deal as I mentioned above. Use the GVWR of the trailer and calculate that number times 12-13% and that will be a fairly close number for the tongue weight that it will put on the truck. The trailer will need to have a W.D. hitch system for towing the trailer and normally, those weight 75-100 lbs, so another weight to deduct from the available payload number for your truck.

Next up is to add up anything and everything that will go in and on the truck.....passenger(s), extra fuel, generator, tools, etc. All of that weight will also needed to be deducted from the truck's available payload number too. So for a total, you've got tongue weight of the trailer, W.D. hitch, and everything that goes in/on the truck. When you total all of that "stuff", the number should always be less than the available payload number of the truck.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I really didn't know how much you know or don't know about doing some of the numbers, but hopefully I've helped you a bit with this info......if not, take a nap and let your eyes rest for a while!

 

gvcw is the # you want. As for diesel vs gas... no doubt the diesel is easier to drive if there are easy inexpensive mods to do to your gasser to make more torque...I would look at that. Another thing you may want to consider is an auxillary fuel tank that goes in the bed like a tool box. Say 30 or 50 gallons. This will give you much better range while towing and cut down on travel times. Only down side is the added weight of the additional fuel

 

Like what? The price tag?

Besides the fancy trim I'm sure the thing is build side by side with the "pos Chevy".

 

I’ll offer this - did this all to my 5.3 LS 1/2 ton. Money well spent.

Texas Speed and Performance performance flash / long tube headers / cold air intake.

Air bags and air shocks

Auxiliary Trans cooler (you covered this)

Leveling hitch.

TSP are LS specialists.

EDIT - with all this said, no matter what you do- keep trailer under 20’ or it’s the tail wagging the dog.

Hope this helps.

 

What kind of toyhauler?

There are some 7x14 dual axle trailer/toyhauler setups that you could probably tow without an issue

If youre looking for one for the family with a kitchen and everything else, youll have to go down RRP’s suggestion or...roll coal

 

I’ll look into that stuff. Thanks.

I would love to get a 2500 diesel, but I can’t justify owning one because I would rarely use it for what it’s really meant for. I’m having a hard time justifying a toy hauler. I will probably only use it 5 times a year. That could change though with my newborn son. Hopefully he annoys the hell out of me to get to the track plus, it’s nice not having big truck payments. Hindsight though...

 

That’s the thing.Since I’ve never owned a th/trailer, I was asking what people in a similar situation have and if it is working well for them. I’ve looked at the forest river xlr hyperlite, the grey wolf 22rr, and a couple others that are in the same category. I also have briefly looked at the trailer/toy hauler setup. Might be worth revisiting.

I’m going to look into what RRP sent me.

 

Fwiw, I have a single axle semi toyhauler setup now and its working well for me. With the better half, I just get a motel.

And fwiw, Im that guy with a diesel 2500. Overkill? Hell yeah. Although, from Wilmington Delaware I can get to just shy of the Georgia line on one tank.

I bought mine new in November ‘16 and have 67k on it.

 

The upside to the mods I listed - pretty cost effective. I had less than $2k in all of it.

And the TSP stainless headers are slick

 

I towed a FR Xlr Hyperlite 27HFS all over Florida with my 2007 Nissan Titan with no issues after purchasing a good WD hitch and getting the set up dialed in. The key difference here would be FL vs PA. Also, when it was time to get a new truck, I bought a Ram 2500 w/Cummins and I no longer tow with white knuckles.

 

Have you shopped toy haulers? They’re expensive, heavy, tall, and many are pretty long. 1/2T trucks aren’t really suited for them, because of the dimensional and weight issues. As stated above, that tail will easily wag the dog. Add weight to the garage and they become even more precarious. Everything stated about them above is accurate.

Do the tracks you visit have electrical hook-ups and showers available? If so, I’d just get a nice enclosed trailer with an A/C unit on the roof. It’ll be much cheaper to buy, easier and cheaper to tow, and you won’t have some big thing sitting around your property you’ll lose a ton of money on when you’re no longer doing the track thing and you tire of looking at it.

For me, I just had a 12’ enclosed. At Barber, I just split power with my neighbor, so I had a fan to sleep in front of. They have clean showers and facilities. At Mid-Ohio and other tracks, I just rented a garage where possible and stayed in motels. It’s a whole lot cheaper, simpler, and nicer to do the motel thing. Having to load/unload, clean, fill/empty tanks, maintain a generator, make constant large payments and insurance, etc of a toy hauler is a pain versus coming home and dropping an enclosed trailer and dealing with the bike later. Keeping it simple has some real advantages.

 

It does make me nervous having only a 1500 towing a toy hauler. Getting a 2500 is not in the cards, at least not yet. A toy hauler is more for the wife and kid. She loves the track, but wants to be comfortable. I can’t argue with that because, she loves the sport!! I’m going to look into those trailer/ toy hauler deals and see. Maybe start with that and go from there. Any recommendation on who makes a nice trailer/hauler?