the +20hp chips on ebay???

what exactly do they do? ignition timing advance and make the fuel enrichment stay on? you do gain some hp right? maybe not 20hp, but ~10??

 

usually depends on how much HP you start out with.


you are smarter than this...

 

i researched some more and they just increase the resistance in IAT sensor so the car thinks it's cold outside. will the car automatically advance the ignition timing when it thinks it's colder outside?

 

hmmm, so I could get a potentiometer and install it to have an adjustable AFR and timing advance for $10?? If I read the resistance of the IAT sensor when it's cold or in the freezer then I could find out what the resistance is and set the pot accordingly.

 

yes!!!!! do it now.

 

first i, uh, well, gotta go buy the car.....

if i didn't have to go that damned school I'd of had time to go get one. I almost had one too. an '05 at that!! it was listed at $15k and he said we could get it for ~12-13k. we sit down at the dealer, and then he comes back and says actually it was listed as $21k. he looked like he was from nigeria tho....

 

no, no it does not. it is dependent on the stock AFR and timing settings and how much this chip will deviate from them. it shows a dyno of a honda civic gaining 20hp, so it probalby comes very lean from honda. but does a miata come that lean from mazda?

 

i don't think there is one easy 20HP gain on any four cylinder engine. including the miracle mazda motor.

 

Wanna bet, NOS:up: Nick like blowing thing up

 

Nick ALL New Cars are set up with a 14.7/1 fuel mix under normal operating conditions, THat is a AVerage number at times its richer at times its leaner, but it will always average 14.7. If you change the ECT, IAT or MAF sensor to richen it up you will see a improvement initially but because it is a closed loop systemthe ecu will see it is not averaging 14.7/1 and will adjust fuel trim until it Acheives 14.7/1, therefore taking away any gain you saw with a resistor added. The Timing is the same deal if it is advanced the knk sensor will pick up detonation and the ECU will retard timing. There are no miracle chips for modern EFI systems They are just glorified SCAMS.

 

with the narrowband O2 sensor what will it do when the AFR goes lower than what it can effectively read?? doesn't car also give limited "power" to each sensor? so in case you're o2 sensor fails you won't get stuck on the road and it reads another sensor? isn't the knock sensor a fairly new thing? would 99-03 cars have it? if the mixture if being richened, then wouldn't that counter the detonation caused by a timing advance??

 

The thing about closed loop on most cars is that it generally only only works at cruise. Over 50% throttle and 4000rpms most cars go into open loop mode and revert to the base mapping in the ECU. One of the pluses to the OBDII cars is that you can get scanners for pretty cheap that will tell you real time what the engine is doing.
If you are serious about going turbo I wouldn't bother messing with stuff like that though. Get a proper aftermarket ECU and learn the software and how the mapping changes affect the car. That way you know what you are doing when you start putting boost to it.

 

well if/when i go turbo, i'd get a Link ECU from flyinmiata.com and a wideband o2 sensor, but I decided to get a 99+ miata so I'm just going to do some cheaper n/a stuff on it : stainless valves, titanium retainers, upgraded springs, and ~.020" more lift plus 7° duration grind on the cams, probably some exhaust work and an intake kit. I just figured I'd try to richen it up a little.

 

how much power does the catylytic converter rob? I was thinking about just shoving a pipe through it and welding it in place, so it looks stock, and the o2 sensor is before the catylytic converter so it wont show up on the OBD scanner.

 

I'm not trying to make some kind of wild sounding car, I actually don't like that, I was just if the catylytic converter is that restrictive. if anything else, it'd be cheaper to stick a pipe through it than to replace the thing.

 

aight, bustin out some scientific shit up in dis bitch

average IAT is ~100F so I'll base my calcualtions off of that. 12.75 is a good AFR to shoot for so i'll also base my calcualtion that. Air density at 100F 1000' elevation is .068lbs/cu.ft and for a 14.7AFR you'd need .00462503lbs of fuel/cu. ft of air. air density (at 1000')=.0825671617*.9980391082^temp (roughly ) so to get a 12.75AFR @ .068 air density you'd need .00533333333lbs of fuel/cu. ft of air. therefore 14.7=air density of "false temp for 12.75" or the desired temp's air density/.005333333, so dtad=.0784. I plug that into that air density equation above to get .9495300357=(.9980396477)^dt. convert that to log form to get log base .9980396477 of .9495300357= dt then dt=log(.9495300357)/log(.9980396477), which means dt=26.39185721. So I find the resistance of the IAT sensor at 26.39185721 - the resistance of the IAT sensor at 100 and I take that value and I stick a resistor with that value in series with the IAT sensor and it should get my AFR pretty close to 12.75 at any temp because I am retaining the IAT sensor. Also, I'm going to find the resistances of the IAT sensor by taking readings from the IAT sensor at different temperatures and put those into an X and Y table (lists) on my graphing calculator and get an exponential regression equation from those values (same way I got that air density equation)

End results:
I need to add enough resistance to the IAT sensor so that at 100F it reads 26F

 

Nick this is the same Crap as The 4-Stroke thread. If You Add a resistor to make the ECU think IAT is 26F@100F It will also cause SEVERAL Other Problems, First it will never run a ANY of the Monitor cycles, After it sits for overnight it WIll Set A range performance code For either the ECT or IAT, It will set A PO430 after driven long enough for the O2 or AFR sensor To make Fueltrim adjustments.

Don't you Have to pass a emissions test to get a tag?

Get a car LEARN to Drive it and Don't FUCK with it, We will all be better off.

How can someone as Intelligent as you ACT like such a DUMBASS?

 

I'll bet you a dollar it makes less power when you are done with it than it did stock.

It's cool that you like math and all but last I heard math was part of the "Axis of Evil".

 

I'll say it again Nick, save your lic. get a minivan.

Or a VW Bus. Chicks dig em. :up: