Sunoco 110 and pump gas storage

So I bought a new to me 1st gen SV650 with a superbike built motor and FCR barbs. First bike I’ve had that needs more than pump fuel. Motor was freshly rebuilt with lightened crank, zlock pistons, falicon rods etc. I was told by the PO I need to run a mix of 110 and ethanol free 93 and that it was jetted for that. No problems there. Gas station near my work sells both Sunoco 110 and Sunoco 93 ethanol free gas.

My question is what’s the longest I can wisely leave this fuel in the bike, and when I do have to drain do I just put pump gas in the tank for storage or just run the carbs dry?

thanks for some NOOb help.

 

I run 110 through the carbs and let it sit all winter.
Other option is to pull the carbs and flip them upside down and let them sit.
Another option is to rebuild them every year with new needle seat o-rings and float bowel gaskets.

At the very least, you should get the needle seat o-rings from Zoran at TWF racing and replace the rubber components as needed.

Sometimes the needle seats are a bitch to get out and they get damaged so it's good to have extra.

I have list of parts I keep on hand to make sure have whatever I need to do full rebuild at any time.

Zoran is the guy for parts or expertise with FCR carbs.

 

021-223 Needle seats
needle seat o-rings (Zorans)
021-033 seals
021-049 screws
018-676 float needle
018-674 needle clip
slow jets N424-25B- (whatever the 52 part number is)
021-089 rubber cap accl pump push rod
021-067 U-ring accelerator pump
021-071 O-ring accelerator pump
021-065 Diaphragm accelerator pump
021-055 Float bowl gaskets
021-045 Washer, pilot screw
021-043 O-ring pilot screw
021-041 spring pilot screw

This is every part you'll need to keep your FCR's going

Float bowel gaskets and needle seat o-rings will be the two you want to keep on hand no matter what.

The other stuff will depend on if you run MR12 or another caustic fuel; you should drain at the end of the weekend with 110

Once you get to know how FCR's work, they are way better than FI and make more power than FI for SV's. They are also way more crisp than FI Anyone who says otherwise is just a keyboard jockey

 

PREACH ON BROTHER DAVE!!!

 

Sweet, thanks for all the information. I just rebuilt the carbs this week with kits from Sudco. Nice and easy to remove and work on compared to any other carb bike I’ve had. I’ll get spares like recommended.

I don’t plan on running anything too caustic. As long as I can keep the engine running smoothly, I know my slow ass isnt going to need every last tenth.

also headed off to check out TWF racing. Came across his site before but forgot about it. Thanks

 

Add one oz per gallon of Seafoam treatment, then run the bike to get it into the carbs and then park it. The Seafoam stabilizes the fuel

 

Cool. I have some sea foam in the garage somewhere. If I can leave the tank and carbs full I’ll definitely add that.

Draining is pretty easy on this and I can do it, I’d just prefer not to every time. If I can get by with month or two in between will be great.

 

Yup, they are real easy to work on.

Another thing pertaining to them is fuel line. I have, for whatever reason, run into issues using Tygon fuel line. It was some how letting air into the line causing fueling issues. I went back to standard 1/4" Gates fuel line and haven't had an issue since.

 

This - The Tygon “collapsed” at Mid O two years ago and I missed a race because of it.

I’m with Dave, back to the Gates fuel line.

 

Good to know. This has Tygon on it. Will order some Gates. Don’t have time for those problems.

 

it does? My experience with it is its basically snake oil that costs $56+ a gallon.

 

I was using Stabil and the tiny orifices of the CT90 carb would plug almost at will. I must have cleaned that carb 4 times in 2 years after it sat with 3 to 5 month old fuel in it. Then I was talking with my peeps at the local marina and they laughed at me. WTF they said that stuff don't work, use Seafoam like we do in our/your boat(s). 6.99 a can, and since then no issues!

 

It works...I wouldn't tread diesel with it, but use it as a gas stabilizer.

I've had gas sit in my generators for 6-8 months, treated with Sea Foam, and they fire right up.

 

I work in the marine industry also and Seafoam is the go to around here. That’s why I don’t use Sta-bil myself anymore. But to be honest I never had any problems with it. But I do usually try and start everything once a month.

 

my neighbor is a boat mechanic at a local marina so yeah Ive heard all about "stayawaybil"... but more to the point Ive put seafoam on a carbon'd combustion chambers... did zip after soaking a week. Soaked clogged jets in it... again zip. Also poured it in a throttle body and see if it would decarbon intake valves... other than the smoke show it didnt do shit. The hilarious part about pouring it in a crankcase??? Its got alcohol in it... all its going to do is evaporate and lighten your wallet before it magically cleans any filth in an engine. That was full strength too...
If youre running eth free fuel... then 60-90 days of storage shouldnt be a problem. Longer than that... Id drain them. Id also make sure the eth free is actually that.
Whats more confusing is the 110/93 eth free mix?? Wouldnt you be better off with 100 octane fuel vs mixing unknown fuels from a stability standpoint??

 

I've always had great luck with stabil, even in vehicles I put in storage for deployments. This includes carbuerated and fuel injected vehicles. I add the stabil, and run the engine long enough to get the treated fuel through the whole system. On my carbed vehicles I took it for a hard drive to make sure I got the secondaries opened up too. Come back from deployment, hook up the battery, fires right up, no problems. EVER!

Edit: I follow the same procedure for winter storage now that I live somewhere that white misery falls from the sky, lol. Later year I parked my bike in the living room all winter. This year I'll do some winter prep and leave them in the garage.

 

I think it claims to do all kinds of shit, but really only does two things
- stabilize gas
- clean clogged jets when fuel mixed with it is run through them

As for mixing pump and 110, I do it all the time in my .5mm over bore. I like to get a little lead in the fuel to help out the top end. I don't know if it does anything to help, but I have a shit ton of hours on my engines and they are still running, so I would say it's a good thing. That engine is also built to run pump gas.

As for my 2mm overbore, I run straight 110 for practice and MR12 for racing. I would not mix pump and 110 with that engine. Superbike engines need consistent high quality fuel. There are too many variations with pump gas to risk detonating a built engine to save a couple dollars on fuel.

 

How does it stay mixed? And what dilution ratio? If it could clean clogged jets in an ultrasonic setting... that would be great. It hasnt shown me anything that demonstrates it could do whats claimed on the can.
You'd be better mixing up 2T oil at 50:1 or buying something like TruFuel for a storage .

 

I don't know how it works, just that I use it and have seen it work.

One time I forgot to put it in my Yamaha generator and let it sit for a couple months. When I went to use it, the gen wouldn't idle on eco mode and was running rough. I put fresh gas in it to no avail. I then dumped some Sea Foam in and it cleared up.

I also don't go by the directions and just dump some in the tank or can or whatever I'm putting it in.

As for the ultra sonic cleaner, I've never tried it, but personally I use Simple Green.

That TruFuel is $20 a gallon, plus you would have to drain all your stuff and replace it with that. I can spend $6 on a can of Sea Foam and treat everything for a couple seasons.

 

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