So who are the Adv riders here?

I wonder if thats a size/availability/load thing.
I’ve been running the same model tires on the Tiger for the last 50k so haven’t been looking for the “perfect combo”:

 

Is that an OEM fitment on something you saw in the showroom? If it is, it’d be news to me.

 

I'm 'in' now. Researching how I want to set up my new T7.

 

Must be on the Africa Twin forum where that question is popular because the AT comes with a bias front 90/90-21, radial rear 150/70-18 and some people also mistake the AT owner's manual specification listing of bias front and radial rear as a requirement of sorts.

There's a lot of outdated ideas on bias vs radial tires from when radial construction took over. Motorcycle bias construction is generally used on ADV, off-road, touring and cruiser bikes - heavier load, slower, stiffer construction. Radials for higher speed and more compliant construction.

ADV tire construction varies between manufacturers and tire models, some of the same tires in different sizes will be different construction and it seems the larger 21" and narrower sizes are bias in my tire research and with ADV / dual-sport tires I couldn't find a radial 90/90-21, they are all listed as bias construction while the rear 150/70-18 tires vary in construction type.

The Dunlop Trailmax Mission I installed on my AT are bias front/rear (and heavy af) as are Bridgestone AX41. Conti TKC70 front is a mix of bias and radial in various sizes. Same goes for the TKC70 rear with most being radial, AT size included with narrower being bias. The TKC80 fronts all appear to be bias construction along with the rears. Metzeler Karoo 3 is bias front, mix of bias and radial rear sizes. Michelin Anakee Adventure and Wild for the AT bias front, radial rear with a mix of bias and radial in other sizes. Shinko 804/805 are bias/bias for the AT sizes but also a mix in other front/rear sizes.

I'm considering trying the Shinko 804/805 next on the AT. You also have load and speed ratings to consider with what and how you're using a particular bike.

 

I figured it was a 21" thing, but I thought I'd ask more invested people. I didn't know if, perhaps, a radial's behavior in that size might be an issue on road or do you think it's just manufacturer lack of development?

I saw a Guy Martin vid at Caldwell Park; he was on an AT and showing his skill. The idea that he might be moving as well as he was on a 21" bias tire caught my attention. The vid does not show his front so, for all I know, he may have 17" slicks.

You'll get the idea that he's just warming his tires the first lap...

 

For years and years tire manufacturers have found that you can run a bias ply front with a radial tire but a radial front with a bias ply rear produces a poor handling m/c. With a typical 90/90-21 fitment the limiting factor is the width of the rim, so bias ply is the way to go. And if you look around at all types of bikes you will find this from the factory combo, so nothing new here.

 

Thanks. I was hoping you'd reply.
If you can (I'm presuming you have a bias), what is the best 21"/1_" ADV tire combo for street performance? Surely there's one that stands out for pushing it through asphalt twisties, maybe even a trackday, no?

Getting into a predominately dirt oriented DOT, whatcha got for that in the rocky, rooty terrain of central PA?
Thanks for your consideration.

 

Yeah, great info. Thanks.

 

Sorry but you're a bit off base here. Radial construction has not taken over, as the technology doesn't yet exist to build a true radial for a narrow rim fitment.
And it doesn't matter if it's a radial or bias ply you can add belts to the carcass and or tread plies to carry more weight. And this is seen with the radial equipped Honda Gold Wing, and they aren't the only company making heavy touring bikes with radials. Pirelli won Dakar years ago with a steel belted radial rear knobby. Why in this extreme off road competition with very high speeds was this tire used? Because Pirelli's patented steel belting like used in the roadrace tires helped prevent over-heating and knob chunking.

 

I appreciate the correction and the info you're providing. The construction type for narrow rim is what I was arriving at when I saw all fronts in 90/90-21 were bias so great to know and also that a radial front and bias rear don't really play well. Cool to know about the Pirelli radial Dakar tire too.

 

The only street bias-ply tires I'm familiar with are the Polyglas GTs I had on my '71 Camaro in '79-'81. I embraced the suck in the wet and snow.

 

This is what the m/c manufacturer recommends because THEY tested and approved that set/application for their m/c.
But you should follow the tire's manufacturer suggestions because they have the data for maybe one or more than fitments for your m/c.

To put it into context once the big DP bikes started getting popular TIRE companies realized they needed to offer a expanded range of tires to meet the needs of the rider. BUT and that's a big BUT doing so means that if you want to go more off road the tire's speed rating is going to decrease. You as the rider need to be knowledgeable of what you are doing and realize that riding a 950 KTM with 80% off and 20% on tires on the expressway in desert for 6 hours in going to wear them out quickly and the bike won't handle that great.

So always look at the speed and load index required for your bike's tires and ride educated and smart with tires suggested by the tire company.

 

How are the ADV bikes at 2up touring? I'm looking at doing a tour with one of the kids. Nothing insane, but if I buy a bike I don't think I'd want a K16 or FJR to deal with for quick hops around town (Atlanta). Thinking the adv route instead. Just curious if 2up would work well on something like the Yam, Tiger, or Multi.

 

They’re fantastic, multi-purpose machines. They have an upright and high seating position, which allows for one to see and be seen in heavy traffic. Their long-travel suspension easily deals with our failing infrastructure. They can be outfitted to suit whatever one’s needs may be.

A few things to consider, no matter the bike:
•Be very conscientious of added-on weight. Farkles like luggage sets, crash bars, racks, etc, quickly add up, will make the bike cumbersome, and ruin its sharpness. A Tiger 900 is ~430lbs, which is amazingly light in this category. However, start hanging crap off it and the bike will quickly exceed 500lbs.
•Buy the front wheel size that fits your needs. I’ve had a lot of customers come in looking for a 21” bike. When they indicate they’ve never ridden off the road and know very little about it, I quickly steer them toward a 19” bike. Why? Only an alien is going to wheel an ADV bike with any competence, off the road. Buy an entry-level bike for that, so as to preserve the investment in this bike. A 19” puts one into cast wheels (typically), which are tubeless (typically), lighter weight, and less gyro, so they handle better. Yet, they’re still of a larger diameter, so they’ll have better rollover than a 17”. If one is never going to explore dirt and gravel roads, prefers the twisties, and desires the ultimate experience on asphalt, a 17” bike is the best bet. However, a 19” offers a great compromise, many tire options to either extreme, and can be competently wheeled about anywhere.
•Test ride whatever bike you’re interested in, no matter what. The different engine configurations all have their own feeling. Even the 800 and 900 engines in the Tiger lineup are drastically different in their character and power delivery, despite both being triples. The bikes all have different riding positions. For instance, the R models of the GS lineage have cramped legroom, because the cylinders limit peg placement. That’s a huge deal for long legs, long ago knee injuries, arthritis, etc. If 2-up is a regular thing, bring your pillion. The only thing they have to do, while riding down the road, is to think about their discomfort. There is very little adaptation that can be done to their accommodations to “fit” them. The seat-to-peg relationship is fairly fixed.

Triumph isn’t expecting their USA-bound, restock shipment for ~4 more weeks, so the only bikes available are what is on the dealer floors.

 

^all that!
The Tiger road variants are excellent touring machines.
I have to say tho, i’ve had my cans on the bike and mostly loaded for 3y and almost 50k miles. They haven’t made a huge difference in handling. Or maybe I’ve just learned how the weight feels. Regarless, the only time the bike is too heavy is when it takes a nap on me.

 

Yep. I rode with Jesse panniers for 5yrs. After realizing I was only intermittently using them for carrying what could easily fit in a tailpack, I pulled the whole setup off the bike. It made a huge difference.

I sold the topbox, years ago. That stupid thing, empty, was more detrimental to the handling than loaded panniers. It shipped to a guy who commuted, in NYC.

Right now, I just run a tank bag everyday and throw a tailbag under a cargo net, as needed. Also, I have a Dynamic backrest for lightweight, 2-up accommodations.

 

Hard bags? No thanks.
We've all seen it before, but the audio is too good to not post it again. Turn it up!

 

I probably almost did that a time or two pulling up to the atm on the AT with factory panniers when it was new.

I like having the panniers keyed to the bike, ease of install/removal with no racks and they are not wider than the handlebar and pretty light so all that outweighed any of the negatives. I'll go with something like the Tusk Pilot soft panniers for the MABDR and any other type of riding like that. I already have a large dry duffel for the back and some crash bar bags so plenty of storage options.

This was an 8 hour ride from back in February (started out in low 30s) to pick up rental truck and load about 7 hours then drove straight through home in 9 hours so just under 24 hours round trip. Left at 6:15 am and arrived home just before 6am the next day. Glad I took the Baxley chock with me, the truck was a pos.

 

For a second there, I thought the Baxley was a rack for scuba tanks. Hmmm, I wonder how deep you can take her...

Looks nicely set-up. AltRider fender? Whose crash bars/skid? I see the StompGrip...precut or did you cut generic sheets? You got them fancy break-away mirrors, too! PivotPegz or just wider? Miles? Anything you would do differently or have anything in mind for future mods? And is that an Ohlins sticker?

Sorry about all the questions, I don't know anyone that has an AT. Someday, I'd like to be the one personalizing...the more I hear about them, the more I want one. None of the other ADVs do anything for me...too small or too big in both size and power. I can admit the Super Tenere planted the seed, tho'.

 

Well, I made the jump from the Givi made Triumph hard bags to some Mosko Moto soft bags. As well as a tailbag(a first for me). I think this, with a tank bag, will cover my needs for the 8 days riding the CO-BDR this month. I went with the soft bags because the mounts for the Givis were already catching the back of my leg in street riding. Not encouraging for doing some more off-pavement riding. So, safety second. And, they're probably lighter.
These Dunlop Trailmax Missions are great for gravel, and backroad, riding here in MO, and in AR. But, I'm going with a set of more aggressive Bridgestone AX41 for the BDR. Just a little safety blanket extra traction
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BucJXsXRNhJ3KDWG6