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So here's some race data...

Discussion in 'Tech' started by ilikebass, Nov 5, 2022.

  1. ilikebass

    ilikebass Active Member

    Here's some data of me coming onto a straight out of a tight corner, it's kind of a messy situation. Most of my data looks pretty good but there's a lot going on in this one. 2016 ZX10R, kit ECU with TC at 1 (+3), WHL at 5 (+0). Tires had quite a few laps on them at this point.

    [​IMG]

    So the TC starts clicking (in red) which makes me react by not further opening the throttle. That's why the grip position is flat under the red blips, at least until I get impatient. So I start increasing it again but it looks erratic for some reason, maybe the TC threw me off. Right after I reach full throttle the bike starts to wheelie (in teal) which initiates the wheelie control seen as the blue blip and that big drop in the TPS. But I'm also reacting by dropping throttle to about 85% so I'm not exactly letting the wheelie control do it's thing. What's interesting is you can see the front wheel lose contact, as the wheel speed drops as it lifts off the ground. It seems to be bouncing up and down but the data says the wheelie control is only coming in once. Anyone know how to interpret this?

    So the question is, what does the bike do if I don't react with my throttle input? I do not know much about how the kit ECU works but pretty sure TC cuts ignition not throttle plates while WHL does the opposite. If the TC is cutting out but I keep increasing the throttle is it going to just sort itself out? Or do I need to drop the TC setting and just be more careful with my throttle input? I'd like to rely a bit on the TC but don't know what it will do, haven't had the balls to just keep pinning it when it starts clicking. For wheelie control it's the same, as the front comes up my natural reaction is to level off the throttle, but if I don't will it just stay at that angle as it keeps accelerating or will it slam down or something? I haven't gotten a good feel for it because I also react by leveling off the throttle (just like with TC) so it's hard to know what the electronics will do without throttle changes. Also, I happen to be shifting immediately when the wheelie control kicks in which further complicates things. What do the different settings of WHL do, does it just change the angle it allows before it comes in? Can someone explain what the ECU is doing exactly and how the bike behaves if you keep the throttle wide open? I will test this next time at the track but would like some insight first before I go do something stupid.
     
  2. ilikebass

    ilikebass Active Member

    I can't edit my post for some reason...

    I think this has more to do with the front wheel coming off the ground actually, look at the front wheel speed, looks like the front end is bouncing so I'm not able to continuously increase throttle.
     
  3. moto316

    moto316 Well-Known Member

    Replied to your post on the zx10r forum but this is definitely a better place to get real info. Can you post up an onboard lap if you have one? Would give us some context. Also if you could post up a screenshot with the same parameters but with lean angle added as well. I can then compare some of my data, I know that I lean on the TC and let it do its thing once I'm at a certain lean angle standing the bike up out of the corner.

    Also @DDK732 is THE guy that would be able to answer the specifics surrounding the intervention strategies that the kit ecu uses.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2022
  4. DDK732

    DDK732 Well-Known Member

    There's a lot to unpack here.

    I think first and foremost everything depends on what you want from the electronics. For example, fast guys like Andrew Lee didn't want to feel a lot of intervention with TC or WC but did want it to help. We typically focused on how the electronics were helping the bike through the corner (i.e. engine brake, drive grip and the ability to get to full throttle). Wheelies were always an issue with the ZX10 and there was no setting in the kit electronics that would allow you to stay full pinned and control the angle of the wheelie. We worked a lot on power delivery through the ignition timing and throttle maps and the chassis setting. It all works in unison. For the 2016-2018 gen ZX10 our TC setting was 1 at -2 or - 3 and WHL at 1. We also fine tuned the TC activation through the tire circumference in the kit software. If you input a larger than actual circumference on the front tire or a smaller than actual on the rear tire the TC will be slightly less sensitive (I believe we went up to 20% difference from the actual tire size).

    As far as the strategies in the electronics you're correct, TC is using fuel and ignition and WHL uses the throttle plates. With WHL set at 5 you get a lot of intervention which is why I think you're seeing a longer WHL activation time on the data with a big dip in the TPS. The wheelie control will never let you stay fully pinned and ride out a wheelie but when you turn it up it will neuter the power, especially driving off the corner. Also, with the 2016-2018 ZX10 the system will prioritize TC over the quick shifter. So if you turn up TC and it is activating at your shift points you might find that the quick shifter won't work in that instance.

    I would suggest trying out the range of auditability in the TC and WHL and see which direction you prefer. Looking at where you have TC and WHL set right now I think it's too much...but it all comes down to what you want from the bike.
     
    metricdevilmoto, rafa and stangmx13 like this.
  5. My only advice is listen to DDK, he knows a thing or 10, especially Kawi’s.
     
    Boman Forklift and backho like this.
  6. ilikebass

    ilikebass Active Member

    I've heard about using the tire circumference to tune TC, pretty sure it was Mike Godin from KWS who told me they did that. Do you use it to get in between settings because they are too coarse, like to get in between 1 (-2) and 1 (-3)?

    I think I just need to get the balls to run lower settings and see what the bike does, it might actually be easier to control everything with the throttle vs letting the electronics come in and then also having to modulate the throttle on top of that, it can feel kind of unpredictable. I've been using the electronics as a safety net but I guess it's time to test with lower settings and see if they are really helping me at this point. I could also make some setup changes to help with the wheelies, I do have a little room to up my swingarm length (at 601 mm currently) but I'd have to add links to get anything more than a few mm I think. I've been running a K-tech DDS pro that felt pretty soft with stock valving (105 spring) but I'm swapping a TTX on for this weekend which should have stiffer valving and might help too. I saw a major improvement in keeping the front end down after installing the MSS head cups which move the steering pivot forward 5 mm, the extra forward bias helped a lot but I'm still struggling with it in a few corners in particular.

    There's a thread over on ZX-10R.net that talks about TC interference with the quickshifter, moto316 said with the update from 1.0 to 1.1 software they solved that issue, though I've never run into it myself. I'm still running the 1.0 but will load the 1.1 soon as he said there are changes to the engine braking and autoblip settings as well.

    The last race of the season is this weekend so I'm a little apprehensive about making big changes to the electronics, especially because I will be riding with a new shock and also different fork cartridges which will surely take up some tuning time, but we'll see how much I can test out in practice.
     
  7. DDK732

    DDK732 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, the tire circumferences are a fine tuning in between the TC levels.

    601mm on the swingarm is a little on the short side but that's close to where we would typically run. You might try 605 - 608mm.

    The updated software is better, not a huge change but more refined. The system still prioritizes TC over the QS but it isn't as sensitive. A lot of riders never have the issue again after updating the software.

    I wouldn't throw a ton of changes at the bike in one outing. Take it step by step so you can understand what each change does. Good luck!
     

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