I have a PC5 on an newly track converted 07 RR that needs tuned in the Virginia area. I'm seeing https://www.rnrcycles.com but they are pretty up there in cost. I'm just looking for someone with a dyno shop that can do a better job than Auto Tune preferably around Richmond. Anyone come to mind?
If you decide to go with RNR you will not be disappointed. Rick is a good guy and does a thorough job when tuning.
Out of state, but a better option than up the street! Appreciate the recommendation. I'll check them out! Hm. I think everyone here can agree that the fastest way around a corner is what takes home the trophy.
OK...you do you. But if RNR is a good reputable tuner, then the extra cost may be worth it versus saving a buck or two at Joe Schmo's shop. Good dyno work is not cheap...but, it's totally worth it. Cheap tuners are, well, just that, cheap tuners. A more driveable, properly tuned motor will get around the corner and smoke a half-assed tune job to the line every time.
DJ has a list of current providers on their site. But the bigger resource is their map inventory. I had a known FL tooner work on my stock motor'ed bike. After realizing my mistake just a day after dropping the bike off... I decided to see how far my $300 would go. When I got the bike back I immediately looked at the map. I didnt see fuel or ignition changes worth $300 but what I did find... A map exactly like a standard issue DJ. So I downloaded every map for my model and took them to the track to test. Bought my own a/f reader and made my own changes. Now with TC maps... that would be worth the $$$ if you have the pace.
If you aren't running race gas or a built motor...a tune is a waste of $. Run a OTS map and call it a day
The OTS tune for my bike and full exhaust was WAY too lean. Glowing header pipes lean. The peace of mind of a good tune is worth it IMHO.
Weird to see that, every tune OTS tune I've seen (for cars or bikes) are almost always tuned a little on the rich side for safety, ironically, to avoid the issue that you ran into.
If you are WFO for an extended time thats par for the course. When I did alot of street riding on hyperbores Id see it after 30-40 second pass when getting off the exit to turn around. Same with my scooter at 100 mph for 45 mins... header gets bright red.
Well it was too lean before it was tuned. It has done 11 years of track days with just fresh fluids and valve checks on the motor so I would say that was worth it to me and it is still going strong. I am doubtful that would be the case if I left it running that lean all this time.
what was the actual AF ratio and what elevation? Been at this a long time and cant say Ive ever seen an OEM send out a bike so lean the bike would detonate. Plus the airfilters on most bikes are pretty restrictive for airflow.
This in was in 2010 with a 2003 R1 at Moon's Super Cycle (outside Milwaukee). Hindle full exhaust, K&N Air Filter. 84 degrees, 29.64 in-Hg, 23% humidity. Can't remember the ratios before (it isn't just one ratio, but a graph over RPM of course), but I remember it was a mess. I have the "after" graph with the PCIII and custom tune and it looks nice. Peak HP went up a bit, but the big smooth gently arcing torque curve starting a 4k to the the just past 11k shutoff is a thing of beauty.
heres a clueless dyno operator the shop later stepped up to fix the damage the idiot did. This bike was 738cc fuel injected turbo notice the AF? whoops
You should look into HTP performance. They tuned my first R6 and it worked well and I never had any issues. The owner has a following in the drag racing community. Edit: they were in Richmond back when I went there but now the website is showing Ashland.
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. It has been 9 years since I had them tune a bike but I expect they would do a baseline dyno run and then start from there to adjust fueling. I have attached the dyno from my tune back in 2011 for your reference. There is no baseline reflected on the sheet.
Just curious what they would be able to squeeze out. Regardless of baseline 118 is very good for an 06+ R6. I'll have to give them a call.