Recommendations for a 4th Gen R6 Racebike

Thanks for the good words, Rob.

A guy who knows what he's doing and has put a bunch of bikes through their paces on the dyno will have a "good" flash that will work on a stock-motored bike with the same or similar mods, especially on pump gas. Is it perfect? No. Can it be 5% better? Sure. It's always better to have the tuner work directly on the bike the flash is going on, but for cost-effectiveness and ease, remote flashes or mail in flashes are a good alternative for track day riders and most racers. So it's not that the tuner didn't put in the dyno time, it's just that once a trend emerges regarding what the motor wants, you can get most of the way there without having to physically dyno the bike. At least, in my experience.

There's also a lot of benefits to a flash, especially on the R6, in regards to throttle maps, QS, blip, variable stack timing and engine braking solutions and other things like that which a reputable and responsible tuner will have sorted out as well with real world experience and dyno time.

 

@metricdevilmoto thanks for that explanation. That's pretty much the conclusion that I was coming to based on the education that I am getting from this thread and other things that I am reading.

So, given the following goal: A stock motor running pump gas with a decent, relatively affordable pipe, tuned for maximum rideability and not necessarily max horsepower

It sounds like if I can score reasonably decent pipe and then have an experienced tuner actually put it on the dyno and tune it for that bike, that I might be just as well off, or better off, than a more expensive/performant pipe and a remote flash. Would that be a reasonable statement? Or is the devil in the details here and this no way an apples-to-apples comparable thing?

 

IMO, good throttle map and engine braking solutions are worth more time on track than a small increase in HP.

 

Regarding the fork tubes and clip-ons; given that tubes are prone to distortion do you use the same torque spec on aftermarket clip-ons as the OEM (I believe it is 32 Nm). And since the aftermarket ones don't look like they bolt into the bottom of the top triple tree is that torque spec adequate to keep the clip-ons from spinning on you while riding?

 

+1000

Just like properly setup suspension is worth more than anything at least for my son it was. I was always amazed how a small change could instantly net .5-1.5 seconds when we were setting up for a new track and he was trying to go really fast.

 

Do i need the clutch holder tool to remove the Y springs? diagram looks like they sit behind it and i assume i need it to remove the nut. I assume once i open the clutch its pretty straight forward but wanted to ask someone who knows.

 

I dont know. Ive never cut them myself.

 

yes. be sure to use small flat head to undo the peened part that goes into the shaft that nut sits on (just like the countershaft sprocket nut)
This nut has a shoulder on the back side.. BE SURE when putting the nut back on, you get the "Y" springs to slide up that shoulder before you tighten it all the way down. the shoulder goes INTO the "Y" springs.

Keep in mind, (although some Y spring cutting isn't a bad thing) this is NOT the same as a good engine braking strategy as some have pointed out. Cutting Y springs lessens engine braking in every rpm, in every gear. Changes to the engine braking map, can slow the rate the butterflys close, in different rpm ranges.. in different gears. So, you want less engine braking at high rpm when you first are entering the corner and downshifting.. but as you slow, and are attempting to approach the apex, it's ideal to get a bit more engine braking (butterflys closing faster now) so the bike can more easily get to the apex. you don't want that false neutral feeling, as you waive bye-bye to the apex...