Race Tech Universal Fork Spring Compressor?

Discussion in 'Tech' started by boxcrash, Dec 31, 2016.

  1. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

    Anyone have one? The Race Tech Universal Fork Spring Compressor, the portable one and not the foot operated one?

    I know I can buy one for 140-150 ish range, but I want to build one, not ghetto either.
    I have plenty of scrap square steel for inner and outer, about 3 foot of threaded rod with about 6 nuts that fit it, couplings, and washers. I also have some other bits I can use for the upper clamp, including a 3 way C-clamp.
    I want to build one, just to see if I can pull it off well enough.

    Now, I can take a fork leg I actually have laying around, crack the cap and measure how far it should extend and how far it should compress, or estimate, build, and hope its enough for any application.

    Anyone have one and would be kind enough to measure the outer length and inner length of square tube down to the lower fork base full extended?

    Also would not mind seeing some pics of how theirs works, or apart(not sure it comes apart)

    My thought is inner square tube, outer square tube, the threaded rod through the middle of both, lower inner tube with a steel nut welded inside at the top, the rod threads into it just enough at full extended, so the lower square tube moves up and down as tighten and loosen to compress the fork, but enough that at fully compressed up against the L the threaded rod is bottomed out or barely not. Then at the top, two nylon lock nuts on either side of the upper outer tube plate, the threaded rod fits through. Then a washer between coupling and a lock nut on top of it to prevent it from coming off during twisting clockwise or counter. Would tack a spot weld on it, but if I ever want to take it apart, much easier without it welded. Then the bottom piece, that the lower fork sita on, would be a piece of square tube same size as the inner welded to the lower inner, in a L shape.

    For the upper spring/spacer clamp, like on GSXR forks, use the 3 way c-clamp without the flex feet. I was actually thinking of welding a bolt to the upper outer tube face so I can move it in and out, or just to take apart..not sure yet because it would have to be pretty exact that the bolt does not interfere with the upper fork tube, so that might not work. Probably have to weld it to the upper outer or but it on the bolt, tack a weld and cut any extra threads off. I can also do an arm in a square C with two bolts threaded through it, and the bolt ends tapered real nice, but that's more work to build.

    I have thought about going to the dealers suspension tech and trying to get them to let me measure it and look at it, but not sure that will go over good considering its cold season so desperate for any work they can get, let alone some guy like me doing my own, and close friends and family for nothing or next to nothing.

    Thanks for anything!...........I have a feeling I am going to get a talking to about just build it the hard way and earn the failures and success's of building a good working one, especially if any Race Tech guys are lurking, or sponsored by, etc. but its worth a shot.......
    I like to measure twice or thrice and cut once, so getting working measurements would be nice.
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2016
  2. I have one that I use regularly, I can measure it on Tuesday when I get back into my shop. I would just buy one though...
  3. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

    Thank you, much appreciated!
  4. treoff

    treoff Member

    I made my own for a R6 with 1"& 1.25" tube, 5/8" threaded rod and some other simple bits, picture attached.

    Screen Shot 2017-01-02 at 7.15.40 PM.png
  5. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

    Yeah that is exactly what I have, a 5/8" threaded rod about 60" long. I have about 4 or 5 steel nuts for it, and i want to say 4 stainless locking nuts(nylon insert), several steel washers. Then I have a coupling nut or two floating around.
    The square tubing scrap I have several different size and wall thickness, all should be long enough, the two I plan on using is about 1" for the inside(thinner wall but still pretty stout, forget the exact thickness) and the outer tube I want to say 1.25", very similar to what you used, with the exception of I planned on doing it like the Race Tech, larger outer tube at the top for the section with the spring clmap/mount/jaws, so the lower smaller inner tube is the push and pull section....but yours also works. I mean it just has to work really.

    Any reason why you used the smaller tube on the top for the clamp/jaws? was it because its smaller so allows more room less interference, and more space for clamping to the fork spring/spacer? And the bracket you used for the jaws, smaller gave it more room for the way it was welded to it?
  6. treoff

    treoff Member

    I didn't give any thought to which tube was bigger, it really doesn't matter much. The important thing is trying to get the tool's force pulling straight down instead of twisting or rocking. Mine does a good enough job but if I were doing more rebuilds I would have to improve it.
  7. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

    Gotcha, thanks.

    Yeah I was thinking of making each section 22" long of useable space, the inner and outer tubes

    I have heard even the Race Tech one has some wobble or play from those have used them.
  8. JustaNobody

    JustaNobody Well-Known Member

    In the time it took you to type all that up you coulda made enough money at work to just buy one :)
  9. IrocRob

    IrocRob Well-Known Member

    At the time I wanted a fork spring compressor I already had a cheap Harbor Freight 20 ton shop press;
    so I just welded up some angle iron brackets for the top and bottom. Works great and holds everything
    in place and at a good height to work on.
  10. triplestrong

    triplestrong Well-Known Member

    You may save yourself some bucks in the long-run by simply buying the Racetech one.
  11. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

    Thanks everyone for feedback, suggestions, help and thoughts.
    Well, built one myself, used it about 4 times now, and I might have $30 in it total due to some things not working out exactly the way "I" wanted and having to buy something else small, couple $$ here or there.

    I have enough scrap square tube left over to build another one, and knowing what I know now I could build another one, or future ones even cheaper.
    Even from scratch, since I have the hook up on square steel tube for now...I could probably build them for $15-20, then my time welding it up and all that.
    I enjoy fabricating things, if I don't have anything else going on at that moment.

    I am happy with it, and to me more rewarding than buying one or paying someone else $140+ to do them for me; not so much the fact I could probably save $130-135 on each one I build, but the fact I made it, it works, and its not all bad.
    rob linders likes this.
  12. treoff

    treoff Member

    That looks great, nice work!
    boxcrash likes this.
  13. boxcrash

    boxcrash Well-Known Member

  14. MotoGP1199

    MotoGP1199 Well-Known Member

    looks great
    boxcrash likes this.

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