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R6 wheel torque spec

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Brutal, Jan 20, 2022.

  1. Brutal

    Brutal Well-Known Member

    When I torque up my wheels on my 2011 R6 it bites the wheel as its causing friction? Always found the R6 very heavy to push compared to my gsxr 1000 road bike and now I know why.

    The front at 67 ft lbs and rear 81 ft lbs seems to make both wheels bind.... Or is my torque bar crap???
     
  2. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Torque wrench seems out, mine both spin freely at spec.
    How are your bearings?
     
  3. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    both seem alil "legally" over the limit... its been discussed before the stock spec may have been fudged by someone is risk mgmt...hehe

    Is your rear wheel properly aligned?
     
  4. Brutal

    Brutal Well-Known Member

    Yeah bud, rear is constantly on/off and different gearing for different tracks but always a bit of binding.

    I run aftermarket Captive spacers would this make a difference? Probably a lot softer than OEM spacers?

    My rear wheel bearing has just been changed as it was very rough....
     
  5. grapejuiceboys

    grapejuiceboys Well-Known Member

    I didn't notice it when pushing around but with Graves captive spacers the wheels never spun freely. It's nice to have the captive spacers for wheel changes but I eventually went back to stock because of this.

    Regarding torque, I only torque mine to 65 ft-lb, front and rear. 17+ R6
     
  6. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    Captive spacers won't make a big difference if they were made to the correct dimensions. My wheels spin a good amount of time without calipers and chain on there. Im using FastFrank captive spacers. It'd take very little time to swap to OEM and check for a difference.

    Most front wheel issues I've seen are caused by people installing the axle incorrectly / tightening everything in the wrong order.

    Sometimes people forget to put the rear wheel center spacer back in when changing bearings.
     
  7. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    I bet your wrench is off
     
  8. DmanSlam

    DmanSlam Well-Known Member

    Yamaha also decided that 30+ ft-lbs was not insanely-high for the R6 oil drain plug's torque spec (2008+ model). Torque-ing it was worrisome. Untightening that plug was a bear.
     
    youngR likes this.
  9. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    Hence the stahlbus valve reco. 1 and done... never have to booger oil pan threads.
     
  10. DmanSlam

    DmanSlam Well-Known Member

    Not a bad solution. Just wonder what the track day / race orgs think about it, inspection-wise. @Mongo , @Dave K ?

    Pics attached. And video here:
     

    Attached Files:

  11. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    they make a safety wire cap as an option for $10. You could even wire the valve if you werent clumsy with a drill bit.
     
  12. youngR

    youngR Well-Known Member

    Nolan uses it in MotoAmerica R6.
     
    DmanSlam likes this.
  13. youngR

    youngR Well-Known Member

    This is why I have trust issues. That TQ spec recommendation is absolutely incorrect by manual. Jeez
     
  14. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    its not uncommon for service manuals to be incorrect or poorly translated.
     
    youngR likes this.
  15. Bruce

    Bruce Tuck & Roll

    I know from personal experience that if you switch the spacers by accident it will bind up the wheel. Most other manufacturers make them different diameters on purpose.
     
  16. DBConz

    DBConz Registered Idiot

    you guys torque your wheels? tight and safety wired works.
     
  17. grapejuiceboys

    grapejuiceboys Well-Known Member

    Yes, before tightening the pinch bolts....
     
  18. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    With the front suspended, does the wheel spin? Half a turn because of brake drag? A lot of draggy front ends out there. Take the time to clean up the calipers real good. Get the pistons nice and clean with simple green or car wash soap, then push them back in a bit. Clean up the bar that the pads slide on. The only thing that actually pulls the pistons back a hair when you're done braking is the little lip on the caliper seal. The rotors do most of the work, knocking the pads back when you release pressure. But dirty pistons and pads that don't slide on the retaining pin will increase brake drag.

    You probably already know all this, but bleed the brakes minimum of once a year (I do it every few weekends). Fluid absorbs water and in extreme circumstances, crystals can form and gum up the master cylinder passages. Can cause the master to hold pressure.

    Also, when installing the axle, torque the axle to 66 ft lb, then tighten the (rider's) left pinch bolts. Push on the front end a few times, then the right hand pinch bolts.
     

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