R6 update on R6 rod bearings.

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Vinnie@proline, Nov 9, 2007.

  1. theQman23

    theQman23 Racer's Choice for TIRES

    I understand Chip

    Yes Chip, I agree. But we've all seen flat rate type techs doing fast work to fill the daily quota for production, and you know they aren't as careful as you are. When the motors they build have problems, they just do it twice. When the motors you build have problems, there is a reputation consequence. When I was only building my personal bikes, I worked out of a one car garage and a roller box. Now that I build for other people, of course there has been expansion. Machine shop, lifts, etc etc but many of the dealership techs aren't that heavily invested in precision tools.
     
  2. Orvis

    Orvis Well-Known Member

    WOW!! I've been flamed severely for trying to shame "mechanics" into being actually professional.
    I will say again. If you're a "shade tree mechanic" and can't afford the proper tools to do the job, by all means, use "plasti gage" I guess that it's kinda accurate. Sorta, maybe.
    If I had witnessed any mechanic in my shop using plasti gage then that mechanic would have been presented with a decent set of inside and outside mics and taught how to use them. If he didn't want to use them, he would have been looking for work elsewhere.
     
  3. WERA872

    WERA872 Well-Known Member

    "shade tree mechanic"

    :crackup: :eek:
     
  4. Gumby647

    Gumby647 Señor Member

    If I use an EZ-Up does that make me a step up from "shade tree"?
     
  5. Gumby647

    Gumby647 Señor Member

    More on topic. I'm looking for a new bore gage and was wondering if any of you guys have used the Mitutoyo Borematics, the pistol grip Fowler's or pistol grip SPi's. I don't like that the Mitutoyo bore gage I use now leaves marks on the bearings plus it's not absolute so it needs set with a mic which is a pain in the ass.
     
  6. humblepie

    humblepie Well-Known Member

    ;) If you reduce the "preload" from the depth of the indicator, it should help a bit with the marks left on the bearing.

    I have no experience with the mitu Borematics, but wouldn't mind tryin' one out.
     
  7. panthercity

    panthercity Thread Killa

    Take the Chip off your shoulder... you're better than that.
     
  8. Vinnie@proline

    Vinnie@proline Well-Known Member

    WoW I have been away for a while and wanted to apologize for not following up BUT I see that Rocky had done so for me.
    I had posted this just so people are aware of the change. I think the use of plastiguage is necessary but isnt the key point that the clearance changed. Isnt the clearance more with the new formula... They moved us down a size. on a final note another reason to start with the correct codes is to prevent the builder from having to waste the rod bolts and nuts, after all everytime you press them in and out you remove material from the rod.
     
  9. TwoCycler

    TwoCycler Well-Known Member

    Sorry to point out the obvious here, but no, to go down with the number is to DECREASE bearing clearance. If you measure after changing a bearing, you will see this. Also, the rod is harder than the rod bolt...


    Rocky Stargel
    Team Stargel
     

Share This Page