R6 clutch spring mods..

yes, any combination is fine, any order you desire. Provided there is at minimum one non-cut spring in the stack of 3 somewhere..

 

every time ive been given setup advice by a quality tuner and decided to creep up on it so I can "get used to it" or "see if I like it", I just wasted a lot of time. the setup advice was spot on and I should have just done that first. the tuner usually gives me a good "told u so" by the end too, haha.

 

That's a really good point.

 

this makes a lot of assumptions about the rider's ability and speed, let alone bike setup preferences, that is asking for the setup advice..

a rider that is at MotoAmerica top 10 supersport pace? yea, you could likely do well with telling him "do this" .. A rider that is 20-25 seconds off lap record pace ? pretty tough to convince me they will like the same setup advice (all things being equal) as the prior example.

 

no it doesn't. it conveys a personal experience and thats it. I didnt type more so that those asking for advice can make up their own mind.

 

please quote all of my post. A rider at top 10 supersport MA pace, isn't likely going to enjoy the same setup that the 20-25 second off lap record pace will..

 

I may be misreading you post Stangmx.. i agree that a lot of top tuners will know what to do when it comes to setting up an r6 for their rider. I assumed you meant it would work for all riders. In hindsight, i would be silly of me to assume that is what ya meant.

 

ya u read pretty far into the post, hehe

the implied advice boils down to "don't fuck around, just do what reputable ppl tell u to". and of course it works better when the reputable person knows the rider as well.

 

Had to reorder my springs today from the dealer because they forgot to place the order...

13S-16539-00-00 = 06-09 spring = ~$11
2S3-16539-00-00 = 10-15 spring = $23

Looking at the microfiche for both of these parts, the 10-15 springs don't have the 3 little tabs to hold them into place, but the 06-09 springs do. I'm assuming that is just a minor design feature and that the 10-15 springs will work on my 08. Can someone confirm this?

 

Typo, the prices are reversed. The 06-09 springs are $23, not the newer springs.

 

On the HondaEast parts fiche I'm using for '10+, it shows the tabs ... oh, and the springs are at a better price too (plus you get to buy from a sponsor of this site!). There is only one locking tab per spring:


.

 

I'm probably severely overthinking this but that looks like the fische from 08+. Attached is a screenshot from RonAyers.com. Also, if I look at powersportsdiscount.com (HondaEast OEM yamaha site) I see the same thing. Am I going crazy?

 

I don't believe the springs free-wheel around, there have to be tabs (or something) to align and hold them in place. While I have an '08, I collected all the different year service manuals ... however, I seem to have misplaced the '10+ manuals (likely on a different hard drive). I'd say take a look at your 2010+ service manual and see if it mentions (or shows) lining up "tabs" for confirmation (if you must know before ordering). Maybe I live on the wild side, but when I order my '10-'15 springs (2S3-16539-00-00) next week, I won't think twice about placing the order whether the fiche does/doesn't show tabs.

Edit: Looking around, everyone is saying the manuals are the same. I'm thinking if there weren't tabs on the '10+ springs, either Rick, Melka or Rob would have mentioned that by by now. The parts fiche picture not being meticulously accurate (artistic liberty?) is the likely case here.
.

 

I think you're 100% right here, and also confirming my excessive thought process.

 

i've yet to use the newer "Y " springs with the wider fingers, i can't tell you if they have locating tabs on the center ring or not.

 

Here’s a comparison of the 08-09 spring and the 10+ spring. There are no locating tabs on the newer springs. However, when you get them in place, there is very little wiggle room for them to move back and forth and with the nut torqued to 85 ft/lbs, they shouldn’t wiggle at all.

I did cut two of the springs however I made sure that the top spring wasn’t cut enough to be able to move past the poles that the clutch springs and bolts go into.

Should be good to go! Just wanted to update this thread with the difference.

 

I stand corrected. I placed my order for the '10+ springs yesterday.

Mind posting up pics of the cut springs (showing how much you didn't cut the top spring to ensure it wouldn't "move past the poles that the clutch springs and bolts go into")?
.

 

I've already got everything buttoned up, but when I was dry fitting everything before I made my cuts, I made sure to leave a little more than a half an inch on each arm of the spring, measuring from when the arm starts to bend. Top spring has a little over half an inch of each arm remaining, middle spring has a little over an inch of each arm remaining, and the bottom spring is uncut.

I could see potential issues with the springs moving around if the arms are completely cut off of the springs.

 

Remember I've never used the new style springs, and I'm mentally trying to visualize what you are saying. If you left that much metal after the bend, it seems to me, it is still supplying spring-rate, so you aren't getting the full benefit designed by cutting all those fingers off on two of the springs.

At least on the older bikes, AFAIK the only reason those cut springs even go back in the bike is to take up the space that needs to be there before tightening the center nut, no different than a washer or spacer would be, except at the proper dimension.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. Leaving .5", or 12.7mm, of the fingers remaining is a fair bit of material ... which will provide resistance to the remaining spring as it tries to flex outward.

Schwiz, what potential issues do you think there are if the arms on two of the springs are completely cut off? I'm not sure there are any. The only one I'd worry about moving around is the one with the full fingers.
.