R6 clutch spring mods..

Glad you wrote bad on that one!!!!!!!! I've had a couple employees that could have messed that one up.

 

Just measured it and it came out of the bike @ 43.39mm.

 

What does the front side of the spring washers look like? Did the hub nut catch the edges of the I.D. on last installation?

 

that happens with enough hours, ya REALLY need to inspect your center hub too.. there are large rivets in there, that if the hub is worn, allows the hub to move in a way it shouldn't..
When you replace the center hub nut, ya need to be REALLY SURE the shoulder of the nut goes into the center of the "Y" springs.. and that the locating tabs (each "Y" spring has 1 tab) are lined up in the slots they ride down into. Some builders ram the center hub nut on without ensuring the shoulder of the nut is going into the round hole of the Y springs ..

 

So your stack was too tall - caused extra stress on the springs?


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This was after 2.5 seasons on the same clutch... 2 seasons from me and .5 from the previous owner. I'm not super hard on them apparently. The wear makes sense after that amount of time on it. I didn't put the clutch in, but my guess is it was originally around 45mm new.

When I took the nut off tonight, I didn't see any unusual wear on the hub. and the springs were centered in the right spot. Going to a dealer to order 3 '10 springs.

Thanks for the tips!

 

Your stack was actually too tall. I wonder if some of the steels were starting to warp.


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That happens way more than people realize. We catch at least a few every year doing chassis refreshes and pre-season services.

 

Glad to hear I'm not alone, haha!

 

So much good information in this thread I've lost track a little, my plan is to start with cutting one spring, which position should I start it in?

 

Well one thing I just realized is that my bike is a 09 but it has the 10+ springs. at least thats what it looks like, because my springs don't have the tabs that the older ones do.

 

The uncut springs go in first/closest to the bike.


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...the guys on the internet told me to cut two of the springs do I did

 

stack height doesn't really have anything to do with Y springs breaking.. the Y springs only come into play on decel, where back torque allows the center hub to ride up the 45 degree ramps on the underside of the center hub. when this occurs, the top edge of center hub lifts the pressure plate off the stack, and it begins slipping. There will be a little more tension on the pressure plate springs with a taller stack height (not a horrible thing, lots of us run slightly over 43mm as Rick M pointed out to do), but wont' change the amount the "Y " springs bend. As Mike said , and i said earlier , this just happens with enough hrs on a motor.

it's also why you offset the outermost fiber. If the stack gets to short, the teeth of that fiber will rest on the ring around the top of the clutch basket, causing the stack to be disengaged. not allowing you to go anywhere.. vs. have the fiber material be so far gone the fiber material wears down and begins to destroy themselves.. (lots of shit going through your engine too).

if you want more slip, you can install 1 or both washers (remaining from cut "Y" springs) then the full washer. Ya have to run 1 full, but it doesn't have to go in first.. the further it is from the hub, the less pre-load it has on it.

 

Thank you MELK-MAN!


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So no problems going cut washer, then the two full springs?

 

Do you guys replace the clutch boss nut every time you pop it off? Service manual says "New", but am wondering how much it matters. I know there is a little tab on the nut to hold it place, but not sure that is something that I could punch back in myself or not.

 

if you use a small flat blade to open the indent a bit prior to busting it off, i have used more than once.. same with the countershaft nut. however more than a couple times isn't advisable unless you inspect periodically (which isn't difficult if you are measuring stack height from time to time like you should be doing).

no, assuming the fingers are totally cut. A "Y " spring with partially cut fingers to slightly reduce braking, would obviously be doing nothing but taking up the required space on the centerhub shaft if put in first.

 

Yes totally cut one spring. I'm just looking for a happy medium to start with. So if I start with the cut one first and move it out that decreases engine breaking correct?
Thanks again for the help

 

If I understand you correctly, and you want to start with just one cut spring. You would put the full springs 1st and 2nd, and then the cut spring 3rd. At that point if you don't feel much you would put a full spring 1st and then cut springs in 2nd and 3rd positions.

Then if it still doesn't reduce engine braking enough, you can put in a cut spring first then full spring, and then cut spring. For even less mechanical engine braking, two cut springs 1st and 2nd and then the full spring.