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R6 clutch spring mods..

Discussion in 'Tech' started by noles19, Mar 16, 2018.

  1. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    yea.. and many will get a full season of racing on a clutch, or more. ;) Measure it, put the metals on a flat surface and tap in a few spots to check for warp. I would get the new kit as a spare for sure though, if nothing else.
    and a water pump, and a stator, and a reg/rec, etc.
     
    noles19 likes this.
  2. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Thanks, Maybe I'll do both, So the thicker steel is 2.3 instead of 2.0 correct?
    Also Since cutting the Springs are a riders feel thing as far as how much engine braking they like, is there a problem only cutting one spring?
     
  3. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    standard metals are 2.0mm, the optional are 1.6mm and 2.3 or 2.4mm (i can't remember if 2.3 or 2.4).. the manual indicates you should put the optional metals toward the outside. You can use two of the optionals if needed to get the desired stack height.
    this assumes you know how to measure stack height (ask if ya don't)

    You must run at least 1 of the 3 "Y" springs.. cut as much or as little of the other 2 to get desired EB feel. more cut, more reduction of EB (more slip). Early on, the "hot setup" was to cut 6mm off the fingers of the middle spring, and 12 mm of the fingers of the fingers of top spring. (leaving inner one alone). I would start with cutting one all the way, then if wanting more slip, cut half of the middle one, you can put the cut spring inside first, and the full on top, and this pre-loads the "Y" spring less.. offering even further adjustment. All this said, it's way easier and faster to adjust engine braking through the YEC kit box, or flashtune software.. after cutting at least one if not 2 of the springs. Again, for some riders, cutting ALL of the fingers of 2 springs, may give more "freewheel" into the corners than you are prepared for..
     
  4. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Thanks,I think I'll do just that and cut one spring and go from there.
     
  5. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    I don't know how much the springs are, but I probably have 1 or 2 in my tool box if you want them.
     
  6. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    That's awesome thank you! I think I'll just get them from the place I'm getting some other on parts though.
    I really appreciate the offer:clap:
     
    Boman Forklift likes this.
  7. Schwiz

    Schwiz Well-Known Member

    Good info in this thread here. Will be doing this tomorrow night!
     
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  8. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    To me that's the best part about the tech section. You can learn so much. I still have a lot to learn, but with knowledgeable guys like @RM Racing @TwoCycler @metricdevilmoto @emry @MELK-MAN and others it's nice they take the time to educate us.
     
    TurboBlew likes this.
  9. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    not much i can ever add that those guys don't know already, i just try and save em a little time having to reply, from time to time :)
     
    TurboBlew, noles19 and Boman Forklift like this.
  10. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    I appreciate everyone's replys and information
     
  11. MurfSVR

    MurfSVR Well-Known Member

    Is there a reason not to mix the slimmer springs with the wider ones? Do they have the same strength?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    good question, never used the wider later part number ones... i suspect the length is same (as you use em in the same center hub, basket, and center hub nut), but i suspect the strength is stiffer overall, as they are wider. But i honestly don't know for certain, nor have i tried stacking the different design springs together. .
     
  13. MurfSVR

    MurfSVR Well-Known Member

    I’m only asking because I bought some spares and didn’t realize they were wider until I got them. No worries, I’ll give them a shot.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    There are def two different separate setup advices here: one for the thin springs and one for the thick ones.
     
  15. Gecko

    Gecko Well-Known Member

    I'll go ahead (and take one for the team) and be the idiot that has to ask....


    I've always wanted to try this mod, but my motor guy advised not to do it. He was so adamant that he said that if, on any refresh, he sees it done, he'll tear it out. He's said the same thing, that he can adjust engine braking through the YEC kit box. He's tried and it just doesn't seem to work. Just seems to increase the rpms at idle (maybe my YEC box or software is too old (circ. 2009)?).

    So I've just made do ... but there are a few corners where I firmly believe less eb would help immensely. Well, no refresh this year, but I've got to do my clutch ... so I'm looking to do some "Y" spring cutting. Having an '08, I'm pretty certain I've got the older thinner "Y" springs. Up until this thread, I was pretty confident how much I was going to cut ... but now I'm wondering if I should just order the post-2010 "Y" springs and just do what Rick advised and cut the fingers off two of the springs, then, by way of adjustment, start with the fingered spring closest to the engine and try moving it out. It would seems like a more efficient way of doing things rather than having to make all those measured (6mm/12mm or other) cuts.
    .
     
  16. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    We cut all the fingers off on the two outer springs. I would do what Rick said, as he knows his stuff and is willing to help. I missed Rick suggesting post 2010 springs, but if that is what he is suggesting, there must be a reason. I just looked online at the local bike shop and they are only $12.39 each for 2015 springs.

    Here is the part#
    2S3-16539-00-00
     
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  17. Gecko

    Gecko Well-Known Member

    Rob, many thanks. Rick didn't necessarily say to use one spring over the other, it was more of an educated guess on my part, given what Rick and Melka have said, that he (Rick) was referring to the post-2010 springs.

    .
     
  18. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    you can do it all through the ecu, but, you do you have a guy that can set up an engine braking reduction map that is spot on, throughout the rpm range? the advantage to cutting springs, is you get a consistent reduction in slip throughout the rev range on decel. THEN, you can adjust accordingly in a few rpm area where you need more reduction..
    I find it very odd that an engine builder would be dead set against this tried and true modification to the Y springs.. but hey, if you can get it sorted with just ecu settings, do what he wants.

    Stack height measuring, is simply removing all the fibers and metals and stacking em up pretty nicely, with enough hanging over the edge of a table or work bench, so you can get a set of digital calipers on the stack.. measure the thickness of the fibers and metals stacked up. That's it :) If not in spec, check the thickness of your fibers. min spec on an individual fiber is 2.8mm, i toss em when they are much below 2.9mm and for sure replace at 2.85mm (3mm is new). Use the optional thicker metal to get the stack just above 43mm (Rick i think said 43.3-43.5 as a target but go back and check his post)
     
  19. Schwiz

    Schwiz Well-Known Member

    Went to cut the Y springs tonight... no wonder my clutch was slipping during the last race I did. The plus side is that I get to go with the '10 springs now.
    IMG_3946.JPG
     
  20. MurfSVR

    MurfSVR Well-Known Member

    Was your stack out of spec?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

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