R6 clutch spring mods..

I'm going to check my stack height on my new to me r6 since I don't know the history.
While looking up the stack height I've seen lots of people talking about modifying the clutch spring for reduced engine braking/better feel. I have a flashed ecu with reduced engine braking and I'm wondering where to start on the spring mod.
Two modified one left whole? 12mm/6mm/whole?

 

I like 2 springs fully cut and 1 unmodified mounted on the inside. 2012+ springs.

 

That's a pretty big reduction in engine breaking correct?

 

its hard to quantify. the bike still slows down off the throttle of course. it kinda just takes the edge off of any aggressive engine braking. miss a blip or let the clutch out too fast and the rear tire stays planted. I felt a larger change w/ good throttle and engine braking maps.

also, I only did 1 trackday on the stock R6 clutch and ECU settings. so I don't rem that much of them. i def went faster after all the changes though.

 

I started with (from the inside) full spring, half cut, and full cut. Then went to full spring and 2 fully cut springs. It was noticeably different and smoother with 2 fully cut springs. I have stock engine braking so the cut springs were an improvement

 

On my last SBK R6 the First 2 I always left fully cut off and then if I was going to places like Fontana that have a spot that unsettled the rear pretty bad (chicane on the front straight) or Big willow (turn 1) I would only run 1 finger on the back spring. Mostly I ran the back one with all 3 still intact.

 

This was how my son ran his. He still wanted less, but we couldn't get consistency by moving the cut spring into the outside position. I'm told stack height, was probably the magic piece we were missing, but he went to college before I figured that out.

Our bike was a 08/09 so they were the older springs, not sure how that differs?

 

M

Mines an 09 so that helps thanks.

 

you can try using 3 stock slipper springs with the tabs cut all the way off and 3 HD clutch springs in the stack.

also theres 3 different plate sizes... I usually go with 2.0 & 2.3 size if buying them individually. The Yamaha kit
comes with a mix of all size steels to get the stack height. I run the "flat" edge towards the engine on the steels.

 

Ya I had the spring on the outside for a while. Launches were terrible w a low race-style stack height. With more height in the OEM range, starts got better but still not great. I haven’t launched enough w the spring on the inside to tell if it’s improved further. But the rest of the slip feels good so far.

I’m pretty sure the later slipper springs have wider tabs.

 

There's a few ways to modify the diaphragm springs and there's two different springs, they changed in 2010. Remember that stack height is also very important. You can also get kit pressure springs and mix them with stock ones or use all 6 for your preference. Best thing to do is take the time to compare different settings back to back at a practice or trackday until you find what you like. Different riders like different combinations, there's not really a 'magic' setup for that clutch. It will also help you get good at putting that cover on....

 

Any recommendations on where to start the experiment?
It's a new to me bike and I'm coming off a sv650 so normally have a good amount of engine breaking but I'm open to trying less if that's normally the route people go.

As far as the cover my dad's been a mechanic for 40 years so my plan is to say here dad put this on

 

I recommend that you cut the fingers off two of the springs. Start with the fingered spring closest to the engine and try moving it out. That will decrease engine braking. Make you stack 43.5mm. From a new clutch pack , this requires one 168-xxx metal plate to replace the standard one. (2.26mm). The rest is in the ECU.

 

So I just set the stack per the factory manual at 43mm on my and my friends r6. I cut 12mm off the first and 6mm off the second - third spring is intact.

Why are you making your stack higher than spec? Is it because you cut two springs fingers completely off?


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Also the clutch cover isn’t bad at all- the mistake people make is trying to go straight on. Leave the shaft dangling/hanging with the teeth facing he right way. Imagine your girlfriend (or boyfriend if that’s your thing) is trying to have sex with you but you’re too drunk standing against the wall with a sorta hard wang. She’s not working with a full on boner so she will have to scoop it from the bottom.

I’m laughing so hard at the analogy my brain decided to use but I swear it takes me less than two minutes to get the cover on.


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I'm not sure if I'm more surprised by the description or the fact it makes sense..

 

im also interested to know why the recommendation for larger than the OEM stack height range.

 

by those cut measurements, do u mean u made the tabs shorter?

when u cut a spring shorter, u increase its spring rate. there might be less preload, so itd be hard to tell if u have more or less total pressure on the slipper without measuring somehow.

 

I did it according to this. By springs I was talking about the three fingered spring washers.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-h...ipper-clutch-modification.html#/topics/386465


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Noles in a funny coincidence this will also be my first year racing a r6 after 5 years racing SV’s - we should exchange notes once the season starts. I’m confident about breaking - but not the muscle memory I’ve got for the gas.


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