Is there another option to a full on dry break setup? Clarke's Splash Gas setup? Willit work with a Honda CBR's stock tank opening? Thx gang.
That is one of them, I think it will work. I have older one like in this link http://www.hardracing.com/DIRT&ATV/AcerbisFuel.htm Little different system, not spring loaded like that. I have to pull lever and rubber ball drops to open fuel flow. I modified my little and it takes about 15 sec to dump 5 gallon. By specs on that yellow one sounds my is little faster and holds more fuel. That one is only 4 gallons, not enough for our bikes.
We started by using the Clark Splash Gas Nozzle can (1 1/2 inch head) on a stock GSXR 600 gas tank and it worked great. Then later on you can upgrade you tank with a dry break and buy a red head and install it on the the same can. They have most of what is available on the market at this web site: http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?products_id=527 Good luck.
Thx for the advice. Got a new 5 gallon Splash Gas in my living room and pumped to use it. The website says 15 sec fills? Yay or Nay? If so, it'd get us at least 4 laps that we were loosing in the pits.
Thats right about were we are. It's great to make up 30 seconds on someone who uses a regular gas jug.
What do you guys do for venting on the tanks you modify for a receiver? For some reason dumping excess fuel near a hot exhaust, or venting into a plastic catch bottle strapped to the frame doesn't seem like a very good idea. Do the systems dump the excess, or do you just carefully measure what goes in the gas can as to not overfill? Thx
Here's our setup. One way valve in the line before it has to go up the loop then the hose runs down to a catch can we zip tied to a radiator hose. Catch can is some high heat stuff from McMaster Carr I believe, and that's also where we got the valve for the line. We've had absolutely zero issues out of this setup. The pipe coming out of the tank is bent at a 90 under the surface and extends back up to the back of our dry break receiver to avoid fuel being forced up the line during braking. Britt Lynn was a ton of help for us when we set our tank up, and it's worked great. Hope this helps. Endurance racing is the way to go!!
Thanks! Just what I needed to see. Didn't think about a one-way valve. So all other vents in the tank are plugged? That's a gen1 SV, right? Carbed with a vent in the petcock? (assuming you left that)
yeah its a 675. i think most bikes are vented in the stock cap. also just noticed the same type valve on my rm250 that looks better than the genetic one so you could probably get it through a Suzuki dealer.
I didn't think quickfill receivers have a vent though, right? I may be mistaken. Thanks to all for answering the naive questions ... I don't particularly want to fill the paddock with spilled fuel or vapor lock out track. -D
Thank you! So I guess my best options are IMS or Clarke, right? http://imsproducts.com/Products/index.cfm?TypeSet=Dumpcan&seD=true&tyD=true&maD=true http://clarkemfg.com/splash-gas-3-gallon-can-complete-with-dbm-dry-break-standard-ma-p-119.html Are the receivers the same on both? Interchangeable, and non-venting? I suspect I should weld up the OE vents in my '10 R6 tank, then vent from the top into a catch bottle? Do you have a second vent, since you've got that one-way valve on it (or is the flow direction to let air in, and not fuel out?) Based on my lap times, I need all the seconds I can get in the pit.
When the bike is sitting..you "prop" open the Drybreak with a Big ziptie stuck in it..sticking out so you don't forget it. This keeps pressure from building up and causing problems, once pressure builds the pushes the DB closed harder against the seal. I have actually seen a bike with NO VENT, run the entire Daytona 200 with no issues at all...kinda got me thinking how the whole FI system works...and how they were able to do it made sense after some thought. I think I still owe Dave Sadowski Sr a beer or two from that bet.