Post your road bicycle

You just need to play w/ some boutique parts and you can hit the 15 lb "limit" in no time.

I'm in mid 16 lbs w/ 90mm clinchers iirc (w/ pedals), my only true weightweenie part is the brakes.

 

All the data I’ve seen has shown that an aero bike is faster than a light bike on all but the steepest of inclines. I wouldn’t sweat it too much.

I have a hard time giving much of a shit about aero, especially when manufacturers sacrifice ease of servicing for supposed aero gains. The Madone was notorious for being a pain in the ass.

 

Yep, the data shows this to to be true. Air resistance is the biggest obstacle to overcome (short of an untrained rider).

 

Pulled the trigger on the Canyon Endurace CF SL 8.0. After I stripped the Trek all the way down, cleaned it, and rebuilt it, it was still creaking away. I'll keep chasing the creak and turn that into an indoor trainer / backup bike. I did a little 25 mile ride today with a bunch of hills and decided that the wider 28mm tires, the endurance seat post and the 11-34 cassette were more in alignment with my riding and training goals so I switched from the Ultimate to the Endurace. Don't bother telling me I'm wrong or it's the wrong bike, it has to be the right one because it's the one I just paid with credit card for! I'm headed to CO in a few weeks and thinking I'm going to try and ride up to Hoosier Pass from Breckenridge. The disc brakes should help on the way back down!

 

what was creaking, bottom bracket? Not sure which bearing Set up that frame has but BB30 is notorious for creaking.

 

Congrats on new bike day! Fwiw Hambini had a look at canyon BB tolerances recently, per their own qa sheet the canyon acceptable range exceeded shimanos allowable range for bb86 install, so it might be the BB. Disclaimer my second Hambini BB is in the mail.

I'm still riding the propel disc SL from a few pages back. Aero suits me as I don't have climbing physique so I won't be winning that battle. It flies though, no regerts.

 

Congrats on the Canyon, and specifically, the Endurace! You're going to love the Di2 and the Canyon as a whole. Don't fool yourself into thinking the Endurace is sit-up beach cruiser. The geometry on that bike is still plenty aggressive. It will simply be more comfortable over a longer ride than the Ultimate.

Regarding the bottom bracket chatter, as of yesterday, I just turned 1,683 miles on my Ultimate and my wife just turned 1,353 miles on her Endurace. All since February of this year. We haven't had a single noise, creek, squeak, or issue with either bike, and I'm not talking about leisurely miles. We're throwing down power through that bottom bracket for fast average speeds and huge elevation on a regular basis. All I can say is my experience doesn't align with others opinions regarding Canyon's bottom brackets.

The hard truth is ALL press-fit bottom brackets are susceptible to noise over time and is not isolated to one manufacturer or another, so YMMV.

Again, congratulations on the new bike. You're gonna love it!

 

Congrats on the new bike dude! The Endurace will be sweet. My next bike will have endurance geometry. I flipped my stem to be +6, instead of -6. Noticed a huge difference in control and comfort. Since I mostly ride twisty MUPs, control and comfort are #1 for me.

A Giant Defy set up with wide, grippy tubeless tires would be pretty perfect for me.

 

Did a longer ride yesterday. Usually only do about 25 miles or so. This one hurt, especially the last five miles or so. I'm definitely lucky to have this sweet paved trail right outside my front door. Feels like the Isle of Man TT but on a bicycle.

 

It’s my current Trek AL 2.1 frame that is Creaking. It’s a threaded BB and I disassembled the whole bike, cleaned and greased every surface. I got a new BB (truvativ powerspline) and it still creaked then I changed to an external bearing GXP BB and it’s still creaking. It’s worse going up hills which started getting me thinking that as my weight shifts back, flex in the rear of the frame might be flexing the BB area. My last move is to reface the BB faces for the external cups and if that doesn’t work, then using locktite instead of grease when I assemble it.

I’ll go riding the new Canyon while I continue to futz with this older frame.

 

Did you check the pedals and saddle?

 

It may not be the bottom bracket at all. Check your chainring fasteners, peddles, crank arms, and seat post and saddle fasteners. Noises on bikes tend to resonate everywhere, leading you to believe the sound is coming from one area when in fact it may be coming from somewhere else. One more thing to check is the quick release skewers. Be sure they are greased and properly torqued. And while you're down there, check that your rear derailleur hanger is properly tight.

 

Check your seatpost also.

 

I stripped the bike to the bare frame, cleaned and regreased everything down to the last drop. Seat clamp, check, rear deraileur and hanger, check. Pulled seat post and cleaned that out, check. Threw in new cables while I was at it. I didn’t grease the skewer or pull the rear cassette off though I could throw on a different wheel just to see. Pulled the fork, cleaned and regreased it. And my speed play pedals are like new. And when I switched to the GXP BB, I went to a brand new crankset. I dunno, I’m stuck on maybe the BB interface is not to spec.

 

congrats!!! I am still rocking my 2010 Trek 2.3 but have been looking longingly at the Endurance as well (but not in the cards for this year at least)

 

this.

i have had in no particular order on multiple frames... a shitty machined BB area tolerance, a pedal about to break in half, a loose rear chainstay pivot bolt, a loose derailleur hanger bolt, a loose axle, a seized seatpost, a cracked weld for a seat stay, a crack in the middle of a seat tube, a dirty chain... all make almost identical creaking noises that just may or may not happen under different types of load or conditions.

finding them however was not as simple as "my BB must suck". one of the cracks i didn't notice cause the bike was always covered in dirt. the other i didn't notice cause it was so fine you could only see it in the pitch dark by shining a laser down the tube and seeing it come thru the paintjob. my pedal spindle broke in half one day when i was 3 miles from home and my pedal fell off after i had a creak for about 2 weeks. the bolts and axles i started checking more regularly, but those coming loose are more of a design of this frame specifically and less so a common problem on all mountain bikes. i started cleaning the chain regularly which i used to let go to abusive levels and just replace every year. our MTBing is dirty as shit around here with stream crossings and mud, its not like being in Socal, so i started getting into the "why even bother washing it any more" camp years ago.

 

New bike day! Swapped over my pedals and my seat (tried this one first, turned right around to get my old seat). I ran the 28mm tires at 80psi and left the stem at the -6degree setting even though the front stack is almost an inch lower than my older Trek. The tires seemed huge pulling it out of the box and seemed like big balloons compared to the 25mm I was running but they seemed fine while I was riding.

Overall, the ride was noticeably smoother than old bike with the leaf spring seat post being noticeably softer on the bumps and move from AL to CF and from 25mm to 28mm tires. I thought I could feel the seat moving a little while pedaling but I’m not positive yet. I might try a regular seat post at some point and see which I like more.

It’s Ultrega cable shifting not the Di-2 hotness. Shifts great though. Way better than my old SRAM Apex groupset. Whether real or placebo effect, it seemed to roll a little faster and I really like the disc brake power and feel.

I moved my old Wahoo speed/cadence sensor over, but it barely fit on the chain stay and I think I want to get a new bike computer for it anyways now. I didn’t get a weight on it, but definitely lighter and stiffer as I would expect. Now to rack up more miles!

 

Aw

Awesome! Congrats!! One thing I would recommend is running the pressures a bit higher in the GP5000's. It's been my experience that there seems to be less rolling resistance around 90psi in those tires with tubes (175lb rider, higher if heavier). Running at the lower pressures "feels" like there is significantly more rolling resistance (represented by slower speeds with the same power output).

Also, you likely did feel the seat post move. My wife has the Endurace with Di2 and says she feels it move from time to time when going over rough road and when at high cadence with poor form (bouncing in the saddle).

You're spot on regarding the saddle. As much as we both wanted to "like" the Fizik saddle, we just couldn't get on with them. After around 100 miles or so, we switched to Selle Italia's like the ones on our other bikes. I love my Selle Italia!

Congratulation again! May every road have a tailwind and a negative grade!

 

Not mine, but a friend of mine who works at Orient Express he had this cool looking thing in his garage. I was over at his house and he was helping me with my GSXR clutch switch issue.


It’s a Dan Habrink world speed record bike I think he said...really cool. He also said it sucks to ride lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

New project: Time Scylon Active. The bladed forks are built with tuning forks to reduce road vibration. Time weaves their own carbon tubes. The ride is sublime. Campy Super Record EPS seems about right for this build. Shown with Zipp 303s...Lightweights could be an option.