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Ninja 400 Race Questions (Willing to trade for info)

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Robby-Bobby, Jun 8, 2022.

  1. Robby-Bobby

    Robby-Bobby Steeltoe’s Daddy

    Hey guys, well I am building my first Ninja 400, and while I have done countless others, I know each make/model has their secrets and I am happy to share any and all knowledge I have for some 400 Knowledge.

    What are some "Must have's" to run up front (top 10) Motoamerica and WERA? Cost is not an issue within reason so when I ask about stuff, I want the best for racing and or power and parts availaibility.

    Exhaust?

    Bodywork? Sharkskinz?

    Size Sprockets? 520-428?

    Tuner? PC5? Bazaaz? ECU Reflash?? I

    Kit harness? Or just modify stock?

    Clip ons? Do they require risers to clear bodywork?

    Anything else I need to know? I see spears has a shifter kit? Do these have gearbox issues? Slipper clutch or stock?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. FastByKids

    FastByKids Tire Warmers What?

    Following...

    Don't use Norton's GP body work. Not MA legal. Body work must use stock fairing stay.

    The rear shock is a little murky. A birdie might of told me not every team uses the approved setup from the MA list.

    That is the little I know.
     
  3. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    armor bodies seems to be the least fussy to install (vs hotbodies)

    clipons are subject to rider pref but ET clip ons were a PIA to install & super low for a 6' rider & went back to woodcraft (riser type)after 1 session.
    The ET rear sets were kind of a pain on the brake side as well.
     
    tempestm likes this.
  4. bluebandit2g

    bluebandit2g Well-Known Member

    I have lacamoto bodywork on mine. By far the easiest bodywork install ive ever done. Took longer to take all the OEM stuff off than it did to mount up the Race stuff. Can use the OEM fairing stay and dont have to cut off any subframe brackets.

    The Woodcraft 1.5" 400N specific bars do not require mods to clear fairings.

    Go ahead and put a heavy duty clutch and clutch spring kit. I have the Spears kit along with the HD detent spring and shaft shims. I think Norton does the gearbox undercutting if you need to go that route but i havent had to. I have the occasional 4/5 gear issue but I think its more due to lazy shifting. I use a Anitori QS setup and it has performed fine. Norton ECU flash with Graves full exhaust and MWR filter made a noticeable power difference I want to say Dyno is around 7hp. I also have the TST ECU flash and its equally good. If yours is a 2020 or up you should have the upgraded clutch pushrod. If its 2019 or below youll want to get the newer or aftermarket clutch pushrod. Hot tire set up is 110 front 140/70 rear. 140 rear is a little taller than the 150/60 allows for a bit more lean. Rearsets are a must. Rear shock you want about 330mm length if you can get it. Left front at stock height. I have Ktech on both ends and it works great. Lightweight battery will net you several pounds lost.
    TST, Norton and Spears all have a ton of parts and info for these bikes. Oh and the front OEM rotor isn't the best if youre a hard braker. I have a brake tech iron 6mm rotor and have no issues. 520 non oring chain is light enough and will still gets good life if you service it. I have done several track days on mine. Set it up with intent to race and it just hasn't worked out. One of the most fun bikes ive owned. SBK1198 is a member here and Admin on the N400 riders forum. He has a lot of knowledge on the baby ninja. Hope that helps a little
     
  5. cu260r6

    cu260r6 Well-Known Member

    Lacamoto is the best bodywork, by far. The other brands require you to attach and detach the gauges from the bodywork every time you remove the upper.

    The cheap Chinese exhausts are copies of the Akrapovic headers and are available for about $130. No need to get anything more, but the Spark exhaust is regarded as the best if cost is no issue.

    Nitron suspension seems to be the best, but most MA teams choose GP Suspension carts because they allow for quick spring changes without removing the cart. The Ohlins bits are built to a price point and are not as quality as the other brands.

    Watch the chains (if you run non o-ring chains) and brake pads. You will go through each quickly.

    Post 2020 bikes have better transmissions and clutch pull rods. The only require stiffer clutch springs and cable pull springs.
     
    DmanSlam likes this.
  6. Cooter!

    Cooter! Sarcasm level: Maximum

    Sub'd.
    We just bought one already done well and built another '20 from OE. I'd recommend stainless braided brake lines and bypassing the ABS (if you have it) the lever feel is astronomically better.
    The Hot bodies isn't bad at a price point and can be modded easily to leave the gauges on but the Armor kit is way better and comes off in less pieces.
    Annitori FTMFW for the QS. 5-stars.
    Clutch spring, shift star, rear sets, 1/4 turn throttle, are mandatory IMO.
    Putting in GP cartridges in both soon...
    GSXR-600 shock trick works pretty damn well enough for me.
    Good pads are worth every penny and upgrade the rotor when you need it.
    The Woodcraft clip-ons are the only ones I know of where you don't need to chop the fairing, but they're too high for me. IDK, thats what race fairings are for.
    ASV Levers stick out the front real far and require a lot more chopping.

    Less weight is easier to find than more HP.
    Have fun!
     
    tempestm likes this.
  7. Robby-Bobby

    Robby-Bobby Steeltoe’s Daddy

    What about sprocket sizes? Mainly starting in the southeast like Barber, Tally, Roat Atl, etc. I will get a selection, but what are the 3 most common sizes to start?
     
  8. Senna

    Senna Well-Known Member

    Have to do this on my 300 bodywork from MotoXP. Love the superbike tail, but damn is it a pain in the ass.
     
  9. Knarf Legna

    Knarf Legna I am not Gary Hoover

    Lacamoto. K-Tech IDS cartridges and DDS shock. 4 sets of fork springs, 2 shock springs. Yoyodyne slipper. Spears shift kit. 2 front sprockets, 5 rears, 415 chain. MWR air filter. WSS300 kit with ECU and logger. Quick shifter. Arrow exhaust. Clip ons, levers, rear sets rider preference. Currently 2nd in MA Jr. Cup.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2022
    Boman Forklift and Shenanigans like this.
  10. Shenanigans

    Shenanigans in Mr.Rogers neighborhood

    What is the WSS kit?
     
  11. Knarf Legna

    Knarf Legna I am not Gary Hoover

  12. TCJR218

    TCJR218 Member

    14 / 41 at road A
    14/42 at barber
    13/41 at talledega.

    That’s what I run and I don’t have to swap my chain out to a longer one for talledega.
     
  13. regularguy

    regularguy Always Krispy

    If you're club racing and on a budget, I'd stick with a high quality 520 chain. Most MA Jr cup bikes run the 415 chain but they replace them regularly. It's not uncommon to see a jr cup bike with a broken 415 chain. Be careful when you get gearing recommendations because the 415 teeth counts are obviously way different.
     
    metricdevilmoto likes this.
  14. Shenanigans

    Shenanigans in Mr.Rogers neighborhood

    What about a 428 chain? A guy was talking about how he liked them the other day
     
  15. DmanSlam

    DmanSlam Well-Known Member

    You will definitely see a reduced longevity in the smaller chains versus the 520.
     
    Shenanigans likes this.
  16. Lopsided

    Lopsided Active Member

    Just picked up a 400 on Saturday, soaking in all the advice..

    Trying to prioritize...

    1. Ordered Nitron front and rear - does the cartridge install require latheing/grinding like the Ktech install?

    2. Planning on Woodcraft rearsets, these seem to allow the most lean angle? Do they also eliminate the right heel / exhaust conflict?

    3. Still debating race vs non race clipons, but probably going to bite the bullet and hack away and order spare non hacked plastics when converting it back to street duty.
     
  17. tech1234

    tech1234 Well-Known Member

    Don't have answers for #1&2 but for clipons I went race under triple mounts. Amour bodies required lots of hacking but to me the egros were worth it
     
    Lopsided and DmanSlam like this.
  18. DmanSlam

    DmanSlam Well-Known Member

    For # 1, I did nothing of the sort.

    For # 2, I did not have clearance and stuck with the OEM heel guard (you can see the left-side is using the woodcraft heel guard). I could have probably tweaked or bent one part or both. But OEM sufficed.

    upload_2022-12-9_18-46-30.png
     
    Lopsided likes this.
  19. Lopsided

    Lopsided Active Member

    Thank you, I was looking at the instructions (Nitron_TVT22_Installation_Manual_C) and it showed this step which seemed to be the same as the step in the STG Ktech install video (around 7 minutes in)

     

    Attached Files:

  20. DmanSlam

    DmanSlam Well-Known Member

    So, I misunderstood early on. I have the Andreani cartridges up front (and Nitron in the rear only). I checked one of the fork tubes shortly after my last post to confirm NO grinding was done since I didn't do the work initially. But I knew that already as my previous research showed the Ohlins and A's are (for the Ninja 400) really no different in terms of both being "made for" the Ninja 400 and neither required to drill or grind anything. Both are slide-ins.

    I can't speak for the Nitron cartridges.
     
    Lopsided likes this.

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