I'm getting new truck setup to pull my toyhauler (ie weight distributing hitch and timberins). Once I had the hitch setup I found that even at the highest gain setting I was only getting a small amount of braking out of the electric trailer brakes. Standard fare 10" Dexter electric brakes. I've watched the youtube videos on how to adjust them but I've got a couple questions still. 1. I've looked around locally and can't find the angled brake adjuster tool. Is that tool a requirement or will I be able to get to the adjuster with a flat head screw driver? 2. Which way am I supposed to turn to adjust them? Assuming I'm looking at the back side of the brakes, where the slot is to adjust them, should I be rolling the adjuster from bottom up or the other way around? Thanks
The slot is likely behind a rubber plug. The plug will be about 3/4-1" long with rounded ends. A screwdriver might do the job but the tool is also likely available at a trailer or RV sales/service center. Can't tell ya which way to turn it but if you turn it 'til your wheels stop turning by hand then back off 5 clicks, you should be good.
how many miles are on the trailer? you may have worn out the magnet, hub friction surface that magnet energizes too, pads, pad hub surface, or all of em, and it's time for new brake backing plates and/or hubs. (and repack bearings while at it!!!) I am DONE with the pendulum style brake controllers too. i have one of the best ones, and they suck imo. Unless you jam on the brakes, you often don't get as much trailer brake as you need, and you tear up rotors on the tow vehicle. but as he said.. turn one direction till you hear the pads scraping as someone turns wheel while you flick the adjuster one way or other. make em stop, back off a few.
Not completely sure on the miles on the trailer, its a 2002 and I'm not the original owner, I believe I'm owner #3. Owner #2 got it in 2005 and said it looked mostly unused then. I asked owner #2 if he had ever adjusted the brakes. He told me he didn't know it had brakes and had never hooked it to anything with a brake controller. I figured it would be worth trying to adjust them first since they haven't been actually used in many years. Worst case scenario I'll be buying new brakes. What's a pendulum style brake controller??? I'm using the OEM Ford integrated controller.
it would really be worth your time to pull the hubs off and inspect the brakes, and check bearings. they are over 10 years old, you are not even close to the original owner.. nearly every race round, there is "that guy" that had mega trailer axle issues. Usually from neglected bearings and/or brakes. Don't be "that guy".. this is someting that should be done once a season depending on your tow mileage. So do it now, then you have a baseline to start from.
I echo that you should inspect all the brakes. A full rebuild kit including the magnet is not that much. You can get the drum brake adjustment tool at any car parts store. etrailer.com is the best place I have found to get parts.
This. Much easier to do it at home at your leisure, than it is to do it out on the interstate in the middle of the night while trying to get home.
fwiw... don't buy parts, buy COMPLETE DEXTER BRAKE ASSEMBLIES. they com with backing plate, new shoes, new magnet, ERYTHANG. it is ALOT easier to remove the drum, replace 2 wire connectors, and remove 4 nuts, to replace the assembly, than to mess with replacing parts. I just did this on my 2009 trailer, for 2 axles, the complete brake backing assembly (without new drums) was 44.00 ea. and they were DEXTER factory replacements. the problem I have now is, even adjusted, they do not grab like the factory originals, even with the gain turned to 10, I cant get them to "lock up" when pulling behind the truck like before. not sure if I need new drums, or I have something not wired right. all 4 will lock up when the trailer is lifted, and you hit the activator but, when in motion behind the truck, you can barely feel them slow the truck. Ski
Probably right. Definitely will go with the entire assembly, way easier looking than trying to piece it all together. What about the "never adjust" brakes? They worth the extra $20 an axle?
I just helped my neighbor replace all four assemblies. He bought the complete assembly with backer plate. Super easy. Around $30 per axle from etrailer.
Nate, one way to tell which way to turn the adjuster is to use a flashlight and look into the hole when you get the plug out. Look at the threaded portion of the adjuster right beside the notched wheel that the adjusting tool engages. If you look closely you can tell if it's a right hand thread or left. (There can be both or either although right hand is normal.) Obviously, you want to turn the adjuster in a direction that lengthens the adjuster assy to push the shoes farther apart. Before you start turning it give both ends of the assy a couple of short squirts of WD40. Like has been mentioned before, tighten the shoes until the wheel is locked and back off about 5 or so turns. (Until the wheel just starts turning without the sound of any shoe/drum drag. Have fun.
big ups, to triplestrong, I bit the bullet and bought new drums, seals, and bearings, to complete the brake overhaul. the ENTIRE SYSTEM, is now new. will test drive to Grattan today to check everything out. on the lift, they all lock up tight. have too much invested in the entire rig and what it transports, to go the cheap route. Ski
Cutting drums is fine, and probably way cheaper due to the hubs being one piece. The reason they don't grab as much as the old ones is the finish on them. The smoother they are the harder the bite, they need to break in a while before they get that bite back, it will come back eventually, or just have the guy put a better finish on them. We typically sand a drum after machining to knock down the high spots, it takes a long time for a shoe to wear a drum smooth again. I echo the replace entire assemblies though, much easier and likely cheaper in the long run anyway. Most trailer brakes you'll rotate from bottom up as there is no self adjuster which in most cases goes the opposite way. A thinner screw driver will work just fine. I haven't used an adjusting tool in years. Make sure you install brakes on the right side, along with the big ass sticker that says the side, the brake arm will swing in front of the axle stub. Ps- you should be able to see the lining through the backing plate, most have the same plug as the adjuster to check this.
