They are perfectly fine as long as you plan on an additional 4k to bullet proof them. After that, they are actually very reliable.
there's like eleventeen threads on it... i have 140,000 miles on my 2005 excursion. few issues at all. Had the arp head stud kit put on when my EGR valve started leaking coolant at 120,000 miles.
Keep the oil clean and the coolant topped and all should be fine. Bulletproofing is necessary if you're planning on doing anything stupid like throwing a tuner and jacking with boost pressures. Keep it stock and it should be fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-250-...tr=true&hash=item419b0e490a&item=281774278922 This look like a good deal?
I have an '03 F250 with the 6.0. For the most part, The issues begin and end with the oil cooler. If the oil cooler gets plugged, it overheatts, lifts the heads etc. Deleting the EGR, swapping to red ELC coolant, and adding a coolant filter will pretty much curtail any issues. Provided the oil cooler isn't already plugged. If it isnt, the above stuff can be done for a few hundred bucks. A new oil cooler installed at a reputable shop will run about $1200. There are no need for head studs unless you plan on running a tuner, or have already smoked the heads off the block.
Looks high to me. I paid 11k for a FX4 crew cab with 140k. The xcabs sell at a significant discount to the crew cabs around here, and same with 2wd vs 4wd.
About 10 minutes. There are better local places I can point you if you want, the dealer has a bad reputation for title issues.
a little over a year ago when i had my "bullet proof" job done, this was the stack of 6.0L head gaskets the guy had done.. as some said, general consensus is that once you stud them and do a few other things, it's good for lots of miles.
Meh, I just paid $15,500 otd for an 08 f-250 xlt 4wd with 140k miles, automatic everything, and the newer twin turbo 6.4 powerstroke fwiw.
It depends. What you need to do is take a Scangauge (or some sort of OBD-2 meter) and check the oil and water temps while driving and fully warmed up. At a constant 55 mph or so there shouldn't be more than a few degrees of difference between those temps, a large difference indicates a clogged oil cooler and that some money is about to be spent. The oil temp should chase the water temp and do it fairly quickly, too. http://www.eisenhartdiesel.com/wp/eisenhart-diesels-6-0l-problems-solved/
http://www.xlr8dieseltrucks.com/mobile/mdefault.aspx Not sure where you are located but I can't say enough good things about these guys. They mainly deal in 6.0's and really know their way around them. I've spent a good bit of time talking with them and they make me feel a lot more at ease buying a 6.0. I wouldn't hesitate on purchasing one, just be sure what you're getting has been properly gone over.
Don't do it. Plenty of other reliable options out there than that. List your must-haves for your truck and we can point you in a better direction than that motor.
