To be honest, I've never been in a building with that high of a ceiling that did not have sodium vapor lights. So I could not say. Funny you should say something about Huffies. I have a competitor that's business is about to go under. Not only does he have a Masters Degree in business, but his claim to fame is that he worked for Huffy
that is clearly the exception not the rule. I’d check your power at the lights and also check reviews of the bulbs you bought. Good luck! Mine are kicking ass and looking great
I still don't trust LEDs, but that's obviously the direction everything is going. Too many variations/types out there. I'll be happy if manufacturers could settle on one power system(direct wire, ballast or driver), instead of everyone going their own thing. A T8 fluorescent is universal.
I bought this ones. Got 3 rows each row on its own power line. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPZP7DP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is like daylight in garage No more constant flickering and different colors every time fluorescent is changed.
https://www.amazon.com/Brillihood-Single-Fluorescent-Replacement-Dual-Ended/dp/B01J3FQROA Those are the ones I bought. Looks like it was just over two years ago. Going to Try the Barrina brand this time I reckon. Voltage isn’t a issue, may be a vibration related deal (train tracks are 300’ away) or just they don’t like the cold weather. Seems like every cold morning I loose another one. They are all out now. Even if I have to replace bulbs every two years they still beat the fluorescents in my opinion. Just skeptical of believing how long they claim they last...
Ill have some of these up in a week or 2 so i can report back on how they handle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856YBP6Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They have 12 pack listed on amazon available. They are good. I have different ones in my other garage and are not as good as this.
Those are ballast bypass lamps. If they are going out in <2 yrs, did you remove the ballasts and re-wire the sockets according to the instructions?
So what I need to do is wire the hot/neutral right to the light (bypassing the ballast) and buy something like this? https://www.amazon.com/CNSUNWAY-Lig...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
A lot of the issue with led failures are the electronics / driver components on board. The diodes themselves aren’t usually the fail point. The challenge in matching older and newer components from different batches. Regardless of manufacturer there is always variance in batches of diode components.
No he doesn’t. Double ended means line at one end and neutral at the other, shunted or non shunted won’t matter. Single ended needs a non shunted tombstone with line and neutral at a single end.
Yes,this is what I meant and what I did, working well for me,I should've left the explanation to the experts.Thanks
I was gonna ask him what the hell he meant but sounds like it’s just running power to the lights - thanks.
I can give ya the long winded technical answers on shunted and non shunted and line voltage inputs and bi-pin configurations if you want... Or I can just fuck off.