We are doing a minor resuscitation on a 97 Tercel and need new mid brake lines......the metal ones running from MC to the rear under the carriage, not the hoses at calipers. It looks like the oem from Yota may be discontinued........at least I can’t find them online. Anyone know of aftermarket parts suppliers for these models? I realise it’s not an old hilux or Supra with a million cult followers, but I can’t find a thing. Thanks
With a little effort you can make them. A flaring tool is relatively cheap and you can buy the lines in straight sections at any parts store such as Auto Zone, etc. I just made one to replace a rusted line on a tow vehicle I keep at the beach. Salty environments are hard on undercarriages.
Normal practice is to make your own. Buy the tubing and rent or buy a good flaring tool. It's a tedious job, but not a hard one.
Yep..time to learn a new skill. It's not hard just tedious. Use the old lines as your patterns for length and bend directions.
No value add here just remembering that a Tercel was my first car. When I bought it used the CV joint was making noise, drove it for years and many miles and when I sold it the CV joint was still in tact and rattling about. It was a great car!
You can buy straight lines with fittings in a bunch of lengths as well. I wouldn't waist my time with a doing fittings. Also, check rock auto.
Yep, great little cars. Not very many small 4banger Yotas I haven’t liked. The geo/yota gen corollas are the exception! Hate ‘em. This Tercel has been a family owned car since new.
Have you looked at a local pull a part? I would think making your own would probably be easier, but its an option.
You must not be from the DC area where English is only sometimes a 2nd language Anything from big “T” ain’t going to the crusher
Having just gone through replacing lines on a neighbors Hondas rear brakes, I recommend getting standard lines with fittings included, and joining in at existing junction blocks/locations. Use unions if you have to make longer lines. The tools that are rented at any of the auto parts places are crap, and you will curse left and right when you can't get the second flare centered. The only flare tool I would use, is one designed for one size tubing only, that keeps the second flare tool centered on the line. If you use a multi tubing size flare tool, the second flare will most likely be off-center. Especially if trying to do this on a line that is already on the car, in a position that is hard to get to. Don't worry about following the exact factory routing. Just make sure the line is secure, has clearance to moving items, won't catch anything, or vibrate against anything that could rub a hole in it. I found it helpful to get a coat hanger or some long thin brazing rod to make a pattern first, if you don't have the original line to copy. That also lets you gage for the standard length of tube(s) you will use, to take up any extra length you may have. Or take a shorter route if the stock lengths are slightly short.
Trust me (right between Baltimore Murderland and the District of Corpses here myself) once my son is out of high school, the D-Zum Express is on it's way anywhere that's peaceful, landlocked and quiet.
I jokingly said to my wife the other day when I spotted the leak........”fuck it, let’s bend it back and vice grip it shut. It’s only the back anyways”
If you're going to make your own line, then I'd recommend using copper-nickel tubing, easy to bend and flare, but do yourself a favor and spend the extra money on SURR branded tubing.
