I've spent hours online and in stores trying to find a new door and I'm more confused than when I started. There's so many companies, materials, and options to choose from. Does anyone have a recommendation that is quality but won't cost a shitload? Jeld-Wen and Mastercraft look nice in the stores but then have a ton of bad reviews too. I need the whole frame with a sidelight and other than the big box stores, they're difficult to find.
Stop by your favorite big board store and talk to the smocked ones in millwork. Expect to pay a significant amount more than a cheap ass floor brand stamped out POS. As much as I hate Menards, they seem to be plugged in a lot more to the mid-end contractor grade stuff.
With rare exceptions, you pretty much get what you pay for. Try a local lumber yard (old school, not big box). Their prices will be a bit higher, but they have access to vendors the big boxes typically don't sell.
This is what we replaced the 6-8 x 12-0 sliding glass door with a few years ago. I paid less for my first four or five cars combined.
I put in two mastercraft doors so far. Both were exterior and the wood one rotted out in 3 years on the bottom which I didn't expect given it doesn't really get hit with any water or anything. The second was for the front door and opted for aluminum frame. Its better but still doesn't seal the greatest. If it were a forever home I'd spend a little more and get a higher quality.
No matter the material, if they aren't installed properly, and maintained regularly, they'll all fail. Even the 5, 10, 20 and 50k+ doors. A few things to consider, when buying a door. Thickness should be 1-3/4" min for an entry door. This is the most common and the thickness that most readily available lock sets are designed for. If you know what locket you're using, you can, and should, have them pre bore the holes and mortise the strike plates. If you're reusing your current set, measure from the edge of the door slab, to the center of the knob/deadbolt. This is your backset. Normally 2-3/8" or 2-3/4". Most new lock sets are adjustable to either. Any glass? Low E, argon filled, triple pane, if available. Look in to the low E rating designed for your region. Remember, even the best windows will condensate on the coldest days, but the right low E rating can help reduce it. TDL or SDL? True/simulated divided lite... As for the jamb, if you're going paint grade, ask if a jamb saver is available. All it is is the bottom 6-12" of the jamb are a composite. It won't rot. Does the exterior use brickmold? If so, ask for composite. If you don't need brickmold, you can ask for the door to be shipped without it. If paint grade, maybe consider fiberglass. It paints like a dream, it's stable, won't rot, and is durable. If wood, with a wood jamb, I would seal the bottom of the jamb legs with several coats of whatever finish is going on the rest of the door. Check the jamb width too. Normally it'll be 4-9/16" or 6-9/16". Sometimes you need an odd jamb width, and you can order it that way too so you don't have to fool with a jamb extension. Thresholds come in different colors too. As does weatherstrip and caming on leaded glass. BTW, I'm envisioning you at the millwork counter at either your local lumber yard, or the box stores. You can get quality doors from the box stores via the millwork desk too.
Therma Tru is good is a good brand - I worked for a design build company and used these for 15+ years There is a line that is fiberglass you can stain and looks just like wood but will not rot. Others metal or fiberglass with wood texture you can paint. https://www.thermatru.com/explore-doors/door-collections/ I highly recommend you go to a lumberyard (not big box) and speak to the doors person and look at catalog and discuss options/costs. They might even have display for you. This person should be able to develop a detailed quote with specs for your contractor to install door. Lastly you either have 2x4 or 2x6 wall at the door just measure the jamb depth. It’s going to be closer to 4 1/2” or 6 1/2” . Have contractor confirm all specs before you order so it fits right
Thanks for the info. Since I'm basically gutting my house and it's not going to be worth a ton, I'm trying to get decent stuff for not too much money. I've been looking at $1-2k for a steel door with glass and a sidelight, is the big box stuff in that range decent or do you have to spend more? Obviously you get what you pay for, I just don't want to buy junk and have to replace it.
I installed a fiberglass Mastercraft (Menards special) for our side entry and thought it was very nice for a couple hundred bucks. They sell them pre-finished now which would have been a big time saver for me. I thought the cheap fiberglass was much nicer than the cheap steel.
I'll second the Thermatru option. I've been dealing with them and Fypon for years. Triple check all of your measurements. The last thing that you want to deal with is a door that won't fit...
please frame the rough opening to within a 1/2" of whats needed with 2 by material. I see so many jacklegg installs...it makes me sad
I put therma tru doors on my house, and not just because I sell them. They are fiberglass doors and sidelights that you can stain or paint. I like the mahogany type doors myself. If you were located near Dallas I could help you out more, but if you need anything let me know.
I'm in the process of completely redoing my house yard(hardscape/landscape from curb to backwall) and the exterior of my house. Wife wants dutch-door out front so we went looking today. Holy Shit! Let's hope I have a productive weekend betting football. Super expensive and then the lockset she picked out is like $286 bucks.
I’m not opposed for paying for quality. If you’ve seen posts of mine in other threads I pay for a lot of nice shit and comfort. I was just surprised how much they get for a slab of wood.
